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Forum > Fitting Woes > Hollow chest or narrow shoulders? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Hollow chest or narrow shoulders?
which one is my problem and how to adjust this pattern?


Member since 12/31/69
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Date: 5/5/09 3:51 PM

I'm starting this top and need some help before cutting.

My tops often gap above my full bust. The shoulders usually sit right, but not always. I don't have shoulders that roll forward and they're fairly square. My upper chest doesn't LOOK hollow, so which one is my problem? Or is it something else? And once we decide which it is, how do I alter the pattern accordingly? I'm making view C. I was thinking of slashing a couple inches in from the sides of the upper front, leaving a hinge of tissue and taking out a small wedge on each side? Is that right or crazy? Thanks a bunch!

Rosebeee
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Rosebeee
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Date: 5/5/09 4:00 PM

Do you have a picture that shows the problem you're talking about?

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Becca
My blog: rosebee.dreamwidth.org
So much fabric & patterns to fantasize about, so little time to sew!!

JTink
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JTink
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Date: 5/5/09 4:32 PM

Just a thought, you might want to shorten your pattern between the bust and shoulder. I have problems with gapping neck V-necklines. You can take out a small amount about middle of the way of the neck and graduate out to nothing before reaching the armhole, if the only problem is right at the neck line. Hope this helps.

Elona
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Elona  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/5/09 5:37 PM

We need pictures of you wearing a top that shows the problem areas: front for sure, side view would be good, and the back might also give some useful information.



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Date: 5/5/09 6:44 PM

Here's some pictures of one of the first things I made for myself, but won't wear because the gapping is bad. (As is the zip, fit...)
Front
Side
Back
-- Edited on 5/5/09 6:56 PM --



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Date: 5/5/09 6:58 PM

I also just noticed that sharp wrinkle radiating out of the armscye too. sheesh

Rosebeee
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Rosebeee
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Date: 5/5/09 7:19 PM

First off, I think you do have forward shoulders.

Look at where your shoulder is on that side-view shot. If we could also see the shoulder seam, I'd be willing to be the shoulder seam is about 1/2" behind your shoulder.

Are you an A, B or C cup in your bra?

Your review of that dress mentions you're shortwaisted, and I'm wondering where you took your length out. I'm 5'2", and I usually take out an inch between shoulder and bust (usually right through the armhole), and then occasionally another 0.5" to 0.75" between bust and waist.

I'd highly recommend you get a copy of Fit For Real People. Their narrow shoulder alteration isn't the best, I prefer the other method of rotating the entire shoulder area, rather than just making a deeper seam at the top of the armscye. The hollow chest / gaping neckline alteration is one and the same. You take a VERY small tuck at the neckline, tapering it to nothing at the armscye seam. It's like a little itty bitty dart that you simply fold out and tape up at the pattern stage.

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Becca
My blog: rosebee.dreamwidth.org
So much fabric & patterns to fantasize about, so little time to sew!!

JodieK
JodieK
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Date: 5/5/09 7:22 PM

Okay - here's my take, since I have a hollow chest AND narrow shoulders and similar problems with gaping.
I think (and who knows, you might get a better answer) that you have too much fabric across the front both vertically and horizontally. From the pictures - the back looks okay.
You should pleat out an eigth or a quarter inch tuck between the bottom of the armscye and the top of the shoulder on the front and do the same on the back and on the sleeve cap. That should mean the sleeve will still fit into the armhole. Check out Dawn's blog "two on two off" as she often does this alteration.
I also think that the front might be too wide for you - adding to the gaping problem. You might want to narrow the front slightly or in your next top add a small amount of elastic (since it's shirred anyway) that might take up a small amount of fabric.
Anytime you are fussing around with these kinds of changes, it's a good idea to put a muslin together to get an idea if you are making changes in the right direction - you may need more or less fabric taken out.
Anyway - I hope this helps - leave a message if things aren't clear
Good luck
Jodie K.



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Date: 5/5/09 8:04 PM

Rosebeee, I never noticed that, but you're spot on. In another photo, I can see that the shoulder seam is indeed about 1/2" to the back. So how do I do a forward shoulder alteration? Or is that in FFRP?
I'm between an A and B cup.
I took all of the shortwaisted length at the length shorten line. I'm very curious about taking it out through the armhole. How does that affect a sleeve?
I know I'm a pain but can you explain a little more about "rotating the entire shoulder"?
Also, I'm having trouble envisioning the tuck I'd be taking from neckline to armscye seam. Would it be running diagonal similar to a bust dart?
Thanks so much and I do apologize for not catching on right away.
Edit: I was NOT breastfeeding at the time. I MADE the dress while breastfeeding - the photo was taken today.
-- Edited on 5/5/09 11:53 PM --



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Date: 5/5/09 8:08 PM

Jodie, I'm thinking your pleat at the armscye and sleeve would be very similar to Rosebeee's shorting through there. Maybe accomplish the same goal? The next top already has elastic across the top of the upper front, so I may experiment with shorteing that up a little bit.
Looking up that blog right away! Thanks heaps!

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