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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > FBA princess-ish seam not through apex

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FBA princess-ish seam not through apex
...nowhere near apex, actually
missytexas

missytexas
Texas USA
Member since 9/29/06
Posts: 11
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Date: 6/3/09 8:09 PM

I want to make an FBA on this pattern
Butterick 5360

but I am unsure how to go about it. The apex is nowhere near the side front/front seam, so adding a dart to side front would end up with a weird bulge off the apex, no?
Extending a dart into the front pattern piece also isn't an option, or is it?.
Should I add a dart extending to the front pattern piece, and then rotate it out somehow? But how and where to...
And making an FBA like one would do on a regular princess seam would create the same weird bulge problem that a dart would.
...help...


' target='_blank'>My Webpage
-- Edited on 6/3/09 8:22 PM --

sewsally
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sewsally  Friend of PR
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Washington USA
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Date: 6/3/09 10:56 PM

Perhaps adding more pintucks across the front would work to give you the extra fullness at the bust point.

KathySews
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KathySews  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/4/09 8:26 AM

I would not do a side dart, I think you should experiment with the princess fba. I can imagine what you should try but cannot explain it very well. You need to add width and length for your bust. The adjustment would hinge and open up the front side, lengthen the front center piece, adding another pintuck if width is needed. Then make a muslin. No getting around a muslin on this one!!

TalyQ
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TalyQ
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Serbia
Member since 6/17/04
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In reply to missytexas


Date: 6/4/09 8:36 AM

I am really looking forward to the solution of this. I don't know what I would do myself. I tried to think of a way, but am stuck as well. I would know how to add lenght, but not width to this one. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable can help.

------
Natalija from Serbia (mom to 6 daughters and 1 son)

Debbie Cook
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Debbie Cook
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In reply to missytexas


Date: 6/4/09 9:02 AM



Do you see how the top of the panel seam is already forming a dart shape? I would do a regular side dart FBA on this and rotate the resulting dart to that spot, so that the new increase is split between both pattern pieces but with most of the add'l spreading done on the side piece to keep the center piece close to its original shape.

------
--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

Sherril Miller
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Sherril Miller  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/4/09 5:31 PM

Debbie's drawing is correct, except that you'll need to fold out the pintucks and remove seam allowances. Then tape the two panels together to make the FBA. I'd do it on tracings so that if you're not happy with the change, you can start again from the original.

------
Visit my blog at http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com

If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to Debbie Cook


Date: 6/4/09 6:22 PM

I'm absolutely blown away, that someone can just look at this and figure out what to do I wish I had that talent

Debbie Cook
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Debbie Cook
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In reply to Sherril Miller


Date: 6/4/09 6:36 PM

Quote:
except that you'll need to fold out the pintucks and remove seam allowances


I wouldn't. The pintucks are just even spreads across the pattern piece. There's no need to fold them and make a jaggedy mess when cutting across them. And you don't need to *remove* the seam allowances, just allow for them ... by pinning the two pattern pieces together at the stitching line.

------
--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

missytexas

missytexas
Texas USA
Member since 9/29/06
Posts: 11
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In reply to Debbie Cook


Date: 6/4/09 7:23 PM

Wow, Debbie, you are just great! When you pointed the location of the dart out, I thought, Duh, of course, why didn't I see that? I still have a lot to learn about this...

Thank you so much! I made the alteration like you suggested and made pictures along the way:

alteration steps

BTW, I did not pin the tucks in place, and it seems to have worked out just fine that way. Some of the tucks below the alteration must be redrawn anyway, because this part moved to the left due to the FBA.

-- Edited on 6/4/09 7:27 PM --

Debbie Cook
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Debbie Cook
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In reply to missytexas


Date: 6/4/09 8:00 PM

Great job!

I like this top. I think I just added it to my Must Buy list.

------
--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

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