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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Wrong side of fabric will show?

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Wrong side of fabric will show?
Shal collar construction
addicted2fabric
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addicted2fabric
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Date: 6/23/09 6:07 PM

I am wanting to make myself a winter jacket and liked the look of Vogue 1069 However it states in the pattern description that the wrong side of the fabric will show, which will not suit the fabric I want to use.
I have found a similar pattern on Butterick that I would be happy with too, however it does not make mention of the wrong side showing. Butterick 5295
I am I right in thinking when Vogue say the wrong side will show, they mean on the shawl collar? And if so, would the same thing happen on the Butterick pattern, even though they do not mention it in the description? I have never made a shawl collar so I'm not familiar with its construction.
I know both patterns have a notched collar option as well, but I do like the shawl collar and would prefer to make that view.
Thanks
-- Edited on 6/23/09 6:08 PM --

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Vie
Vie
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NY
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Date: 6/23/09 7:42 PM

Both looked faced to me but if the Butterick doesn't say the wrong side will show it probably won't. Can you see the pattern pieces to see if they are faced? could you draft a facing for the Vogue one if there is no facing?

costumecarol
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costumecarol
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ME USA
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Date: 7/8/09 12:02 PM

I looked at the descriptions. The Vogue coat mentioned lapped seams: I'm guessing these are not regular flat-felled seams, but single layers one over the other. Therefore, the wrong side of the fabric will show.

You could do what I've done, pull the pattern out of the drawer and look at the instructions to be sure. The staff may scowl at you a bit, but so what?

It would seem to me that the lapped seams could be converted to regular ones, if you like the Vogue well enough to bother.

NancyDaQ
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NancyDaQ
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Date: 7/8/09 12:35 PM

The Vogue construction appears to be a single layer of fabric with lapped seams. Thats why the reverse side will show when the collar is folded over, not because it's a shawl collar per se. All the recommended fabrics would be considered "double faced". Issey Miyake is known for atypical construction techniques.

The more typical construction of a shawl collar does not have the reverse side of the fabric show when it is folded down because there is a facing. The Butterick appears to use more traditional construction techniques including a lning, so it should work for the fabric you have.
-- Edited on 7/8/09 12:37 PM --

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addicted2fabric
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addicted2fabric
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Date: 7/9/09 6:15 AM

Thank you both for your replies.
I have decided to go with the Butterick pattern. I will be starting it tomorrow and I'm very nervous. The fabric I'm using, boiled merino wool, was really expensive and I've never made anything this tailored before. I'm far more used to sewing kids clothing.
Wish me luck!

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goodworks1
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goodworks1  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/9/09 11:32 AM

I hope you are making a muslin first...

Is the boiled merino wool very thick? It appears that both of the patterns you selected are for fairly lightweight/thin wools or cottons.

The Butterick is for wovens and the Vogue says it's for knits or crepes. Is your fabric woven or knit?

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Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to addicted2fabric


Date: 7/9/09 9:50 PM

You want to use double sided fabric which means that it has either both sides the same or it's reversible. But if the pattern calls for lapped seams, than the fabric listing will probably list boiled wool, or felted wool or other non raveling fabric.

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addicted2fabric
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addicted2fabric
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Date: 7/9/09 11:43 PM

Eeekk.. I'm starting to think me making this is a bad idea and beyond my abilities.
I dont think my fabric is going to be too thick. It is a little thicker than a denim but not hugely so and it is very soft.
Knits and wovens *sigh* Heres where I show how thick I really am. I do understand theres a difference, I've read up on the theory side of it but to be honest I only have a very slight grasp on actually telling the difference by sight.
The Butterick pattern, which I now have, doesnt specifically mention whether you need knits or wovens, I'm guessing it just assumes you know which is which of the suggested fabrics.
The pattern suggests denim, broadcloth etc, which I 'think' are wovens?
Whereas I think my boiled merino is a knit? This is it here, the dark side is the right side.



It does have a little stretch but not a huge amount. I'd be more inclined to call it give rather than stretch.
What risk am I taking by using this? Is it that it might stretch out of shape? Or something else?
Thanks.

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Sew Much Fabric, Sew Little Time

sew2006
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In reply to addicted2fabric


Date: 7/10/09 0:16 AM

Welcome to the boards you can tell your fabric is a knit because the light gray side forms loops like a knitted sweater rather then broadcloth where you can follow a single strainght stand of thread all the way across the width (or lenght) of the fabric.

In regards to your pattern, a muslin a quick mock up of the garment without finishing seams will help determine the proper size. It also makes a good test run to make sure you understand how the pattern pieces go together. When I expect very little from a fabric scrap I get great results.

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Janome10001, Babylock ESG3, Brother ULT 2001, White 634D serger, Pfaff 1472, Singer featherweight, Singer 14T957Dc, Bernina FunLock 009DCC coverlock, Brother PQ1500S, Janome CP900.

goodworks1
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Date: 7/10/09 4:53 PM

Personally, I think your knit merino boiled wool would be perfect for that Vogue pattern. But only you can decide whether or not you like the look of the contrasting 'wrong' side showing.

But I do think you should either fit the tissue paper pattern (a la Fit For Real People) or make a trial in another cheap/throwaway fabric of the coat.

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