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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > so what now?

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so what now?
elastic waist pants tnt pattern to trouser/ slacks
Bobolots
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Bobolots  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/27/09 0:24 AM

hi all. I finally got my elastic waist pattern where I want for front crotch and the butt fits me good. Also, the back piece is higher than the front because I have a protruding butt.

The real question is: How do I put all this on a slacks/ trouser pattern? While tracing? After? and in what order? And if I'm forgetting something please let me know.

Thanks All!!

Barbara

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild  Friend of PR
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In reply to Bobolots


Date: 6/27/09 8:26 AM

Do you want darts or pleats in front? Put the ease of the elastic waist into either darts or pleats. If you want neither, measure your waist and hip areas and add 1" ease to the waist and at least 3" ease to the hips. Remove the extra. Trace off another of your elastic waist pattern and make changes to that tracing.

Do you want a waistband or a faced waist?

Use a front, back or sideseam zipper, 7-9 inches, and decide on a pocket design. Make a muslin first, because there might be some little "trouble spots" with the more fitted design that aren't shown because of the fullness of the elastic waist.

Fit For Real People as well as Make Your Own Sewing Patterns have some great ideas.
-- Edited on 6/27/09 8:28 AM --

------
"We don't impose our rhythm on Nature. The key is to respect and live within Her." Jean-Charles Boisset, Winemaker
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Bobolots
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In reply to Miss Fairchild


Date: 6/27/09 11:47 AM

-- Edited on 6/27/09 8:28 AM --
well I want to make Burda 8087, but I really just want I guess the front and back crotch and the waist since it's sort of angled. I have lots of books but none mention what I'm trying to do.

I guess I want to know how to make the changes for any pattern I want to work with. But yes, these have a fly front zipper, waistband pockets and all that.

Quote: Beth Pierce
Do you want darts or pleats in front? Put the ease of the elastic waist into either darts or pleats. If you want neither, measure your waist and hip areas and add 1" ease to the waist and at least 3" ease to the hips. Remove the extra. Trace off another of your elastic waist pattern and make changes to that tracing.



Do you want a waistband or a faced waist?



Use a front, back or sideseam zipper, 7-9 inches, and decide on a pocket design. Make a muslin first, because there might be some little "trouble spots" with the more fitted design that aren't shown because of the fullness of the elastic waist.



Fit For Real People as well as Make Your Own Sewing Patterns have some great ideas.


-- Edited on 6/27/09 11:58 AM --
Miss Fairchild
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In reply to Bobolots


Date: 6/27/09 3:49 PM

The Burda pattern has a contour waist, which is about 3" below your regular waist.

I'd start off with taking out the fulllness, as suggested, and then cutting the waist about 3" lower. Then try fiddling as to what the better fit would be. But this would take some time. If it were me, I'd buy the Burda pattern. No problems with sewing instructions, it shows you how to make a CF zipper placement, and any other things you might want.

------
"We don't impose our rhythm on Nature. The key is to respect and live within Her." Jean-Charles Boisset, Winemaker
"And no, now that you asked, I didn't enjoy that play one bit, and I'd like a refund" Signed, Mrs. Lincoln
My Etsy shop: auntmaymesattic
My blog: auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com
Avatar: First place award for jacket at county fair

Bobolots
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In reply to Miss Fairchild


Date: 6/27/09 4:09 PM

right - that's what I meant - do I just copy the curve of the front crotch and trace the waist height of my pants instead of the pattern's, also the angle of the back waist? I don't think I'm explaining right. Thanks for your help!!!!

sew2006
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sew2006
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In reply to Bobolots


Date: 6/27/09 5:50 PM

In rereading your post you mention that you have a pattern for pants that you are happy with that has an elastic waist. If you want to make a pair of fitted pants, with darts and a facing below the hip it's very difficult to use your loose fitting garment as a guide.

Generally pants with a zipper are narrower then pull on pants as the zipper opening gives room to put the garment on and they will also be much narrower at the waist. The most important is where on the body the pants sit. Elastic waist pants have more room in the crotch curve and it sits lower on the body then a fitted trouser or jeans.

I have a fitted tshirt pattern that I use to compare other knit patterns against. I place the tissue paper of the new pattern over top of the cardboard tracing of the fitted shirt so I can see if there's too much, not enough ease around the body, if the neckline will be too low and how far the shoulders stick out. Also helps with sizes as I know I can't make it any smaller then my TNT cardboard copy.

On a sheet of tissie paper I trace out my fitted tshirt. Then I trace of the shoulder area of the new style, then the underarms, waist and hips. I make those changes as I trace making sure the new garment is not smaller then the TNT cardboard copy.

------
Janome10001, Babylock ESG3, Brother ULT 2001, White 634D serger, Pfaff 1472, Singer featherweight, Singer 14T957Dc, Bernina FunLock 009DCC coverlock, Brother PQ1500S, Janome CP900.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to Bobolots


Date: 6/27/09 10:06 PM

What I would do is make a muslin with the changes (dart, pleats, etc.) and the regular height waistline. Try it on, then mark where you want your waistline to be (usually it's 3 inches below your tummy). And cut this off. You can also trace, like you suggested. Then make a facing/waistband to stitch to the new top of your pants.

But this truly is complicated to explain in words here; pictures I'm sure would be more helpful.

------
"We don't impose our rhythm on Nature. The key is to respect and live within Her." Jean-Charles Boisset, Winemaker
"And no, now that you asked, I didn't enjoy that play one bit, and I'd like a refund" Signed, Mrs. Lincoln
My Etsy shop: auntmaymesattic
My blog: auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com
Avatar: First place award for jacket at county fair

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