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One Seam Pants Patterns
Getting the Right Fit
Annieq

Annieq  Friend of PR
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California USA
Member since 7/29/06
Posts: 126
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Date: 6/27/09 11:32 AM

Hi ladies,

I hope someone here can give me some advice.

I have been trying to find an easy pull-on, elastic waist pants pattern. I intended to use it for some of the wonderful summertime lightweight wovens I have.

I thought one-seam pants patterns would be the answer. However, both LC's and Sandra Betzina's Vogue pattern just come out like pallazzo pants on me. Too wide. They make me look heavier and bigger

Let me explain that I have a rectangular body shape and a high hip of 44. (A "fluffy" body type as Louise Cutting would say) My legs are thinner by about 2 sizes from the hip size.

Should I forget elastic waists for a thinner look altogether? I just wanted something easier to make. Adjusting crotch length and all that good stuff is something I am just learning.

KathySews
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KathySews
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Michigan USA
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Date: 6/27/09 11:45 AM

I am working on the Cutting Line one seam pants. I find the drapier the fabric the better. Be sure to experiment to find the right size, maybe down one size?

Elona
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Elona  Friend of PR
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In reply to Annieq


Date: 6/27/09 12:05 PM

Woven fabrics, one-seams, and elastic waists don't go too well together unless the fabric is extremely soft and drapey. Louise Cutting's pattern does work beautifully in such soft fabrics. If you are determined to use your wovens and don't mind sacrificing one, you could try marking an alternate grainline on the true bias and making yourself some bias pull-ons. Bias hangs much more softly, and it's likely you'd get a better effect. Louise herself has talked about doing this, and I'm sure if you emailed or phoned her, she would have suggestions for you.

Irene Q
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Irene Q  Friend of PR
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In reply to Elona


Date: 6/27/09 12:12 PM

Quote: Elona
Bias hangs much more softly, and it's likely you'd get a better effect. Louise herself has talked about doing this, and I'm sure if you emailed or phoned her, she would have suggestions for you.

Actually, her first booklet on one-seam pants goes into detail on making a bias version. It also tells how to make the tapered pants even more tapered. Worth checking out!
goodworks1
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goodworks1  Friend of PR
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In reply to Annieq


Date: 6/27/09 3:12 PM

I would ask Louise directly what she suggests. I've heard many good things about her customer service and I'll bet she'd have suggestions for you.

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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com

Annieq

Annieq  Friend of PR
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California USA
Member since 7/29/06
Posts: 126
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Date: 6/27/09 3:32 PM

Oh, thank you everybody.I knew I would get good advice here.

Right now I just spent 1-1/2 day drafting using Vogue 1096. So I am going to stick to that pattern. It has a flat front which helps my protuding tummy. It does suggest drapey-ier fabrics for View B.

I did suspect the problem was drafting it out of muslin and then old sheeting as I perfected the crotch curve. I did draft in the legs 2 sizes down and it helped. But the bias suggestion is something I didn't think of. I have Louise's One Seam Pants booklet II but not booklet I.

I guess I'll save the expensive Japanese import cloth and bark cloth for other projects. I'll use some linen blend $1 a pound stuff from Michael Levine's Loft and try cutting on the bias.

Thank you all.

Clareew
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Clareew  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/27/09 4:14 PM

This Marcy Tilton Vogue 8397 pants pattern view C is my TNT one seam pants pattern.

I have made it 5 times in different lengths. The full length pattern has really good pleats at the bottom which are rather funky. There are lots of reviews.

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Clare

Machines: Juki F600, Juki 654 serger, Bernina 550 for art work, Janome Coverpro 1000cp barely used
A Singer Featherweight Centennial and an old Necci in the loft waiting for TLC

http://art-by-clare.blogspot.co.uk/

Kisha
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Kisha
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New Jersey USA
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In reply to Annieq


Date: 6/27/09 4:20 PM

I've used 1096 several times. I believe in the directions, she suggests grading down after the hip if your lower legs is thin.

I was fortunate in that I was able to try on all the sizes of 1096 at a SB seminar in CA earlier this year. The best fit for me was to actually go down 2 sizes from my suggested size in a knit and down by 1 size in a woven. That particular crotch curve height fit me better. For the woven, I then split the pattern center side, adding 1/2" to the "imaginary" side seam. Worked perfectly.

The other pattern I found to fit fairly well out of the jacket was

Vogue 2064 both the wide and taper version.

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Machine Stable: Bernina 165, Elna Lotus TSP, Babylock Imagine, Babylock Coverstitch and my newest baby Janome 350E

Annieq

Annieq  Friend of PR
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California USA
Member since 7/29/06
Posts: 126
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Date: 6/27/09 4:49 PM

Oooh. A lot of good ideas. Thanks!

Clareew I have V8397!!! I see that that pattern suggests 2-way knits for View A and silk for View B and C. What fabrics did you make your 5 versions out of?

Kisha, What sort of woven fabric did you use?

Guess I'll hold onto to my wovens for other summer projects.

Annieq

Annieq  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
California USA
Member since 7/29/06
Posts: 126
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Date: 6/27/09 4:52 PM

By the way, on Vogue 1096, I did end up grading down 1 size for the the waist/crotch area and two sizes down from that for the legs. This was in muslin. Thanks Kisha.

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