Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Sewing for Petite Sizes > Narrow Shoulders ( Moderated by MissCelie)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Narrow Shoulders
Which technique do you use?
lakaribane
star
lakaribane
Beginner
HAITI
Member since 7/23/07
Posts: 2004
Login to reply to this post

Date: 7/16/09 3:43 PM

So, after working last week-end on BWOF-2-2008-113, I can't hide from the Narrow Shoulders alteration anymore.

No more Poor Little Orphan look for me, no sir. (But it's annoying my mother was right all this time!)

I have Burda's La Couture Pratique (Fr edition of their sewing book) and Sandra Betzina's Fast Fit (2003). I'm going to test both this coming week-end but I was curious to know what other Petites were using.

Yes, I've searched the boards and read a bit.

FYI: my shoulder length is 10,5 cm (4.13" according to Google) so 1,5 cm (0.59") to take out of the standard length of 12 cm.

Also, if you use more than one, why? Does it work better with a type of garment rather than another?

And what about the sleeve?

------
Fashion Maté, where I blog about what I (eventually) sew : http://fashionmate.blogspot.com
Addicted to Pinterest? Me too! : http://pinterest.com/lakaribane/

Rosebeee
star
Rosebeee  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
OR USA
Member since 10/16/07
Posts: 613
Login to reply to this post

In reply to lakaribane


Date: 7/16/09 4:41 PM

I've done the version where you just draw the top of the armscye in deeper.

But in future adjustments, I'm going to do the one that doesn't change the size/shape of the armscyle... though it does slightly raise the bottom of the armscye.

You cut on a horizontal line just below the armscye. Then at the shoulder, you cut down on a vertical line up to that point, leaving a bit for a swivel.

Swivel the L-shaped piece and overlap by the amount of narrowing needed.

NO adjustments needed for the sleeve! :)

I think for the other kind of adjustment you have to do something to the sleeve cap, but I'm not exactly sure what or how.

Some patterns I only need a tiny 1/4" or 1/2" adjustment, but I've also had patterns meant for broad shoulders and I've had to adjust those by 1.25"!!

------
Becca
My blog: rosebee.dreamwidth.org
So much fabric & patterns to fantasize about, so little time to sew!!

tlmck3
star
tlmck3
Advanced Beginner
IL USA
Member since 7/11/05
Posts: 3755
Login to reply to this post

In reply to lakaribane


Date: 7/16/09 5:28 PM

I cut the L-shaped slashes and overlap so it doesn't mess with the armscyes. You have to do this on both the back and front, of course.

------
I am going for a level of perfection that is only mine... Most of the pleasure is in getting that last little piece perfect...Inspiration is for amateurs. The rest of us just keep showing up and doing the work.

Chuck Close, painter, printmaker, photographer

Hope has two lovely daughters: Anger and Courage

St. Augustine

Sew4Fun
starstarstarstar
Sew4Fun
Advanced
AUSTRALIA
Member since 6/23/04
Posts: 4871
Login to reply to this post

In reply to lakaribane


Date: 7/16/09 8:13 PM

I think different methods work for different people. That's why there is more than one way to do the same alteration.

Personally I use a third method. As I almost always use multi-size patterns I simply trace a smaller size for the neck and shoulders. At mid-armhole, just past the curved part of the armhole, I start graduating to the smaller size. That is I trace a size 14 with a size 12 neck and shoulders. This works really well for me as I am petite everywhere above the bust, not just my shoulders. My neck is as well. I am also 5' 4" tall so tracing the smaller size also shortens between bust and shoulder.

My suggestion is the try all methods for yourself and find the one that works for you. Personally while the other two methods do work I still need to make further alterations. By tracing a smaller size I conquer all my alterations in one go. HTH

------
Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

nancy2001
starstarstarstar
nancy2001  Friend of PR
Advanced
AL USA
Member since 12/3/05
Posts: 6429
Login to reply to this post

Date: 7/16/09 8:18 PM

Like Belinda, I also trace a smaller for the neck and shoulders. For this reason, I try to select patterns that include size 6.

------
No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

Nancy K
starstarstar
Nancy K
Advanced
NY USA
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 8086
Login to reply to this post

In reply to lakaribane


Date: 7/16/09 8:26 PM

I have narrow shoulders, and I have tried several methods and I like Sanddra Betzina's the best. Her method doesn't change the size of the armscye, which is important when you do more than a small reduction or your sleeve cap will be too small. She tells you to cut out everything but the shoulder and armscye area and then rotate the pattern up. (more complicated than that) I do it in the pattern or I am liable to forget to do it.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

MaddyGranMa
MaddyGranMa
Advanced Beginner
NJ USA
Member since 5/8/09
Posts: 16
Login to reply to this post

Date: 7/16/09 11:02 PM

Just when I thought I had the concept of the narrow shoulders alteration down, I bought the HotPatterns "Weekender Sunshine Top" which has virtually no shoulder seam except a skant 2", and has a band that makes up the rest of the shoulder seam. While I am plus sized, I am only 5'2" and have no shoulders...well actually I read that someone said they had "Cocker Spaniel Shoulders" which seems to fit. I am going to make a muslin but when it comes to shoulder alteration, I would rather cut and move the pattern in. I just cannot figure out how to do that on this pattern, and am afraid that the band will be too long, especially in the front. According to their pattern sizing I would be a 12 in the shoulders and a 22 across the bust. That seems to be a huge difference if I'm just grading out the size through the lower part of the armseye.

I'm beginning to feel like the Travelodge Gnome!

lakaribane
star
lakaribane
Beginner
HAITI
Member since 7/23/07
Posts: 2004
Login to reply to this post

In reply to tlmck3


Date: 7/17/09 1:04 PM

Ok, so that's the 3rd technique.*taking note*

Burda has you trace that inverted L just before the armscye curves (instead of encapsulating the whole armscye)

Betzina, of course, had you draw, tilt and redraw.

Good thing I have yards and yards of muslin washed and ready...

------
Fashion Maté, where I blog about what I (eventually) sew : http://fashionmate.blogspot.com
Addicted to Pinterest? Me too! : http://pinterest.com/lakaribane/

lakaribane
star
lakaribane
Beginner
HAITI
Member since 7/23/07
Posts: 2004
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Sew4Fun


Date: 7/17/09 1:10 PM

I actually did that back in the day aka before Internet Epiphany of 2007 (also known as PR is Great and I love Blogs)

Will keep that in mind...

------
Fashion Maté, where I blog about what I (eventually) sew : http://fashionmate.blogspot.com
Addicted to Pinterest? Me too! : http://pinterest.com/lakaribane/

lakaribane
star
lakaribane
Beginner
HAITI
Member since 7/23/07
Posts: 2004
Login to reply to this post

In reply to MaddyGranMa


Date: 7/17/09 1:44 PM

Maddy, you bring up just the question I was having the other night, trying to do the Burda tech on McCall's 5802 (I can't remember, the retro top MLoyet did).

I think you should probably redraw the neckline AND the neckband (wow, MORE work, LOL!) because it becomes laughable after the modification.

Same thing with bateau necklines like the Feb 09 BWOF and that Simplicity ? woven top. Both are on my To-Do list but Ay Caray!

Maybe Belinda and Nancy2001's tech? Tracing the smallest size that fits you in the shoulders? Though, in your case, that would be, what, 5 sizes!?!?

May the force be with you!

Edited for nonsensical cut+pasting!
-- Edited on 7/17/09 1:48 PM --

------
Fashion Maté, where I blog about what I (eventually) sew : http://fashionmate.blogspot.com
Addicted to Pinterest? Me too! : http://pinterest.com/lakaribane/

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Sewing for Petite Sizes >> Narrow Shoulders

Merchants on PR
Victoria Jones Collection
Timeless Hawaiian styles
Web site
So Vintage Patterns
Thank You for Joining!
Deals!
Fitz Like a Glove Ironing Board Cover
Made In Australia
Deals!
SewBaby
Unique Sewing Patterns
Deals!
Budo Bear Designs
Asian Designs
Web site

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Bust Adjustments
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $39.99)
Bust Adjustments

Online Sewing Classes
Altering Pants
Fee: $19.99
(Regular $59.00)
Altering Pants

McCall's 6241
photo
Review by Jade Butte... on 7/10/11
Read Review

Sew Liberated Sunday Picnic Blouse and Dress
Sew Liberated Sunday Picnic Blouse and Dress

Details
Price: $14.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Christine Jonson Pleat Front Dress
Christine Jonson Pleat Front Dress

Details
Price: $18.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Oliver + S Lullaby Layette Set Digital Pattern
Oliver + S Lullaby Layette Set Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $16.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Cake Patterns Hummingbird Skirt Digital Pattern
Cake Patterns Hummingbird Skirt Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $9.50
Add to Bag Add to Bag

McCall's 4600
photo
Review by Allisonsew... on 3/20/05
Read Review

McCalls 5871 Pattern( Size ONE SIZE )
McCalls 5871 Pattern( Size ONE SIZE )

Details
Price: $15.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Simplicity 1759 Pattern ( Size 14-16-18-20-22 )
Simplicity 1759 Pattern ( Size 14-16-18-20-22 )

Details
Price: $17.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN