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Forum > Fitting Woes > More butt problems ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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More butt problems
carolw
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carolw
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 4/9/02
Posts: 40
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Date: 7/23/09 8:13 PM

Hi all,

I am trying to get the elusive good pant fit as are most of us. These pants are a burda 44 straight off the pattern, wrinkly legs and butt , they look fine from the front but from the back grrrrr!!
When I asked DH what he thought of them his reply was "Your bum looks weird". Me "Thanks dear that's just wondeful, how do you mean weird?" DH "I don't know just weird, there's too much fabric at the back", oh how I cry for a sewing partner .

I think that one of the issues is that may be a problem is that I had to cut 6 inches off the bottom, I think I may need to raise the knee level. I have read on here about the alterations for wide thighs and inserting a wedge. Is the wedge supposed to go from the outer edge to the CB? If this is the case, how much do I need to add?

I also think that they are a little tight around my butt, my high hip measurement is the same as my lower high, so I think that this is an issue too. The pants look weird at the waistline, they have a hollywood waistband (AKA comfy elastic waistband) I'd love some constructive help with these so that I can make some pants that actually fit. Thanks all, hope to hear from you soon, Carol.
-- Edited on 7/23/09 8:15 PM --
-- Edited on 7/23/09 8:16 PM --

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 8/28/08
Posts: 3125
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In reply to carolw


Date: 7/23/09 9:12 PM

My pants looked like this for years. I've succeeding in getting rid of most of the wrinkles---still one stubborn one I need to work on. The reason pants look like this is that there is not enough fabric for the back thigh. Try extending the back crotch point out about 1/2 inch and taper for several inches down the inseam. If things improve add another 1/4 inch. To me, it doesn't look like you need to scoop out any of the crotch curve. You definitely need to add for the hip. Because I needed more for the hip and the leg, I just spilt the entire back pattern piece, at first 1/2 inch, then, later, another 1/2 inch. (gulp). I'm sure others will chime in with different opinions. You just need to try different things until something works. Be prepared: it may take awhile.

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That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

Elona
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Elona  Friend of PR
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In reply to carolw


Date: 7/23/09 9:23 PM

Carol, could you post a side view? That often helps a lot when we're trying to figure out fitting problems.

OK, my take on it is that the fit really is pretty good for right out of the envelope, but that said, yeah, maybe the pants could be a tad looser around the hips. In terms of general appearance, I also think it's possible that your fabric has a little too much body for an elastic waist. Visible elastic waists usually aren't very becoming anyhow, but they do look best in a soft, drapy fabric.

And the wrinkles under the bum: I read them as too much fabric under there. Take a look at Debbie's excellent fish eye dart tutorial. She addresses the matter of excess fabric/flat bum/protruding calves.

Personally, I would not suggest adding any wedges or more fabric anywhere just now. I see no indication at all that you need more room in the thigh region.
-- Edited on 7/23/09 9:24 PM --

sewinglady4u
sewinglady4u
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Pennsylvania USA
Member since 2/28/08
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Date: 7/23/09 9:34 PM

If it were my pants, I'd split the side seam open on one leg starting near the waist and go down to about the knee. Then try them on and see where the fabric falls. The crotch seems fine in the photo, but it looks like you could use a little ease thru the hips.

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Consew 7360R, Singer 14U overlock, Necchi 521, Pfaff 900, US Blind Stitch 718-2, Singer New Family 12K treadle

cindyintampa
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cindyintampa
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Florida USA
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In reply to carolw


Date: 7/24/09 0:27 AM

Diagonal wrinkles frequently mean that you need length and width. Looking at the way the wrinkles are falling I would say that you need width through the seat and length only on the side seam, not the crotch length.

Like sewinglady I would open up the side seam, give the back the width that it needs, and if you still have wrinkles, pull down the pants at the side seams, and see if the wrinkles fall out.

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http://thesewingjournal.blogspot.com/

sewsally
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sewsally  Friend of PR
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Washington USA
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Date: 7/24/09 11:54 AM

Contrarian view.
See how the fabric is collapsing on the back knee and lower leg?

If you pull up on the back waist you can make the fabric fall straight. Of course the back seam is now in the crack so scoop out the seam.

The back darts are too long IMO. Side seams a tad too tight too.

Need to see side and front views.

Elona
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In reply to sewsally


Date: 7/24/09 3:36 PM

Quote:
See how the fabric is collapsing on the back knee and lower leg?


Yup. There's too much length under there, which is what U- or V-shaped wrinkles mean. Horizontal wrinkles indicate a need for more width.

Taking a wedge out of the back crotch seam is indeed one way to address it (puts the CB seam less on the bias), though you do have to "scoop" the crotch curve then. Another way to handle the problem, one that does not involve changing the length of the crotch seam, is the aforementioned Debbie's Fish Eye Dart.
carolw
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carolw
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AUSTRALIA
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Date: 7/25/09 5:13 AM

Thank you for the constructive advice.

I will get DH to pin out the extra fabric and try the fisheye dart as well as adding 1/2" to the centre of the back piece. When I have done this I'll post some more pictures, Carol

goodworks1
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goodworks1  Friend of PR
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Illinois USA
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In reply to sewsally


Date: 7/25/09 12:12 PM

Quote: sewsally
Contrarian view.

See how the fabric is collapsing on the back knee and lower leg?



If you pull up on the back waist you can make the fabric fall straight. Of course the back seam is now in the crack so scoop out the seam.



The back darts are too long IMO. Side seams a tad too tight too.



Need to see side and front views.

I would agree with pulling up the back waist (you'll need to cut off some at the top before sewing the elastic back in) and that you may need to scoop out the crotch seam.

BUT try it first before cutting or taking it apart by just tugging up the center back and take a look in the mirror. Does that make the back hang better? (Ignore the wedgie for now.)

Doing so will take out some of the excess fabric from under the buttocks also.

And adding a bit to the side seams, especially between the waist and lower hip, may help.

I wouldn't change the inseam, etc at this point.
-- Edited on 7/25/09 12:16 PM --

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goodworks1
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goodworks1  Friend of PR
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In reply to carolw


Date: 7/25/09 12:18 PM

Quote: carolw
Thank you for the constructive advice.



I will get DH to pin out the extra fabric and try the fisheye dart as well as adding 1/2" to the centre of the back piece. When I have done this I'll post some more pictures, Carol

Actually, if I were you I'd try putting the pants back on and tugging around on various parts of the pants to see if the problems disappear. Save the cutting and adding changes for later.

I think you are very close to a good pair of pants right now.

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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com

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