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Forum > Fitting Woes > Help with wrinkles on bodice ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Help with wrinkles on bodice
Burda 11-2008-111
willozza
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willozza
AUSTRALIA
Member since 3/9/09
Posts: 38
Skill: Beginner
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Date: 8/23/09 3:45 AM

Please help me with a muslin I am making. There are verticle wrinkles/lines along the shoulder which I have no idea how to fix. I have read a few fitting books and they suggest that this may be a sloping shoulder problem. I have lowered the shoulder seam by 2.5cm and it still doesn't seem to be able to fix the problem.

Can someone please help identify the problem. I have attached some photos below.

Front

More Front

Back

Many thanks.



sewsally
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sewsally  Friend of PR
Washington USA
Member since 8/18/02
Posts: 1389
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 8/23/09 12:10 PM

IMO the shoulders are too wide. fold out a tuck to see if that makes the vetical wrinkles go away. You will also then know how much to change your pattern.

Kay Y
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Kay Y  Friend of PR
Ontario CANADA
Member since 11/21/04
Posts: 413
Skill: Advanced
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In reply to willozza <<


Date: 8/23/09 1:34 PM

I agree that your problem is too much width from armscye to armscye both in front and back. Here is the line drawing which shows a snug fit and narrow, somewhat cut-in shoulders.

The first thing you should do is press those pleats! This is your darting in this top. Once they are pressed properly you will be able to see which wrinkles are intentional and which are not. It is no wonder you are having trouble figuring it out with the bodice in this condition! You cannot sew properly without pressing as you go - in fact you should have pressed the pleats before the side seams were sewn. Sorry to sound preachy but this is absolutely fundamental.

Measure yourself from where you would like the armscye to be, side to side. Then (with the pleats pressed flat) measure your dress. Figure out how much extra width is in the bodice. Cut that amount out of the armscye (leaving in a seam allowance at each side). Do the same in back.

Your problem is only above the underarm level as the bodice seems to fit below that point. However, I also query if it is too long.

willozza
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willozza
AUSTRALIA
Member since 3/9/09
Posts: 38
Skill: Beginner
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In reply to Kay Y <<


Date: 8/23/09 7:09 PM

Thanks for the help and also sorry about the non pressing. I was trying to make a quick muslin to see how it fitted on me and I forgot all about pressing the pleats and darts. I tried pressing the pleats after I sewed up the dress but it still looked really bad. So I think I'll undo the side seams, press the pleats and then redo the seams. And then I'll work on the armscye.

Thanks again.

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