AUSTRALIA Member since 3/9/09 Posts: 38 Skill: Beginner
Date: 8/23/09 3:45 AM
Please help me with a muslin I am making. There are verticle wrinkles/lines along the shoulder which I have no idea how to fix. I have read a few fitting books and they suggest that this may be a sloping shoulder problem. I have lowered the shoulder seam by 2.5cm and it still doesn't seem to be able to fix the problem.
Can someone please help identify the problem. I have attached some photos below.
I agree that your problem is too much width from armscye to armscye both in front and back. Here is the line drawing which shows a snug fit and narrow, somewhat cut-in shoulders.
The first thing you should do is press those pleats! This is your darting in this top. Once they are pressed properly you will be able to see which wrinkles are intentional and which are not. It is no wonder you are having trouble figuring it out with the bodice in this condition! You cannot sew properly without pressing as you go - in fact you should have pressed the pleats before the side seams were sewn. Sorry to sound preachy but this is absolutely fundamental.
Measure yourself from where you would like the armscye to be, side to side. Then (with the pleats pressed flat) measure your dress. Figure out how much extra width is in the bodice. Cut that amount out of the armscye (leaving in a seam allowance at each side). Do the same in back.
Your problem is only above the underarm level as the bodice seems to fit below that point. However, I also query if it is too long.
Thanks for the help and also sorry about the non pressing. I was trying to make a quick muslin to see how it fitted on me and I forgot all about pressing the pleats and darts. I tried pressing the pleats after I sewed up the dress but it still looked really bad. So I think I'll undo the side seams, press the pleats and then redo the seams. And then I'll work on the armscye.
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