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Message Board > Patterns and Notions > How do you alter a skirt with a yoke in the back? ( Moderated by Sharon1952)

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How do you alter a skirt with a yoke in the back?
BWOF 08/2009-122
peaudane
peaudane
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Date: 9/8/09 3:32 AM

This is a denim skirt with a triangular yoke in the back and a center back seam like jeans. There are no darts. I made a muslin and the yoke fits fine but I need more fullness in the butt. My understanding is that the yoke replaces the darts but I don't know how to alter it.
For anyone who's thinking of making this, the fit of this skirt is strange; it's big in the front and small in the back! I've had to pinch out quite a bit of fabric from the front.

Marita Kinnula
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In reply to peaudane


Date: 9/8/09 6:55 AM

Hello Peaudane,
How much extra do you need???
Marita

peaudane
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Date: 9/8/09 7:03 AM

1,2 cm on each side. 2,4 cm total.

Marita Kinnula
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In reply to peaudane


Date: 9/8/09 8:02 AM

I'd do it like this:

Add all the 2.4 cm's that you need more to the butt area, to the centerback seam, (also to the yoke although you don't need it there).

Finish the front and the back, baste them together and see how much more deeper SA's you need around the waist area and correct the fit then, prolly there is some more sopfisticated method for this but this is pretty easy.

This may result a yoke a little deeper or you can reverse it and add the extra to the sideseams and tweake them as you would with the added CB measurement.

You could also make a CB seam to the yoke, add the width to the CB and if you are making the pockets, hide a miniscule darts on the upper edge the backpieces ( but 2.4 cm's is pretty small amount, you could be able to ease it off also),
because if you put more room only to the skirt part and not in the yoke you need to take of some extra fabric from the width of the upper edge, the reason I said to put a Cb seam to the yoke is just so it would be easier to to fiddle with the fit.
HTH,
Marita

peaudane
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Date: 9/8/09 8:19 AM

Thank you Marita! I'm thinking a slighlty deeper yoke might be a good idea as it would bring the extra volume closer to where I need it (if this makes sense). I probably need to make a second muslin because I want to see if I can avoid adding a CB seam to the yoke.

Marita Kinnula
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In reply to peaudane


Date: 9/8/09 8:32 AM

If you are absolutely sure that the yoke is fine as it is don't do anything to it, it is not neccesary, just presented it as an option:-)
Marita

EleanorSews
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Date: 9/8/09 9:30 AM

Have you considered slashing the yoke and spread in 2 or 3 places on either side of center so that you are not spreading all in one palce.

What you could do is
1. at the lower edge of the yoke, slash to the inside edge of the seam allowance
2. spread by 1/2 to 1/3 of the amount you need to add
3. do this in 2 or 3 places on both the right and left side of the lower yoke edge.

The thought behind this adjustment is that you need the fullness across the upper butt area and not necessarily at the sides. By spreading the fullness, you most likely will keep the garment line more consistent.

HTH

PS This would require the skirt piece to be larger across your rear and the at the yoke seam.
-- Edited on 9/8/09 9:31 AM --

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chicaem29
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In reply to peaudane


Date: 9/8/09 10:30 AM

Quote:
For anyone who's thinking of making this, the fit of this skirt is strange; it's big in the front and small in the back!

Good to know. I am planning to make this skirt very soon, but not the denim version (there's another version in the magazine, but not shown online, that's more business-like). The fit you described would actually be perfect for me - I have a very flat butt so if it's small in the back that will be great!

Good luck to you in getting this skirt to fit.
peaudane
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Date: 9/9/09 3:24 AM

Thank you so much for these tips ladies! Chicaem29, I hope you have better luck fitting this skirt!

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