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Forum > Fitting Woes > Moving princess seam lines? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Moving princess seam lines?
Sewshot
Sewshot
Intermediate
Georgia USA
Member since 7/28/06
Posts: 18
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Date: 10/24/09 1:41 AM

I'm trying to fit Simplicity 3789 to my body. The front princess seams curve into the armscye. I've done a low-bust adjustment, which has improved fit a lot, but there's still a strange fullness between bust and armscye. I can probably tweak that out, but the seams are also more than one inch outside my bust points, putting the greatest fullness at the sides, rather than in the front. (So the blouse looks too large for me, even though the fullness is right.) I think I need to decrease width in the center front pattern piece and increase width in the side front pattern piece, in order to bring the seam lines more toward the center front. (This would be easier, I think, with shoulder princess seams.) I can fold out a vertical tuck in the center front piece, but how do I widen the side front piece, given that that piece ends about halfway up the armscye? Any ideas on how to redraw these princess lines?

------
Joan

fiberfan
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fiberfan
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Utah USA
Member since 2/25/06
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In reply to Sewshot


Date: 10/24/09 2:34 AM

* Place the center and side fronts together at the princess seam line and trace the armhole and shoulder seam with any markings.

* Fold a vertical tuck in the center front and slash and spread the side front piece along the grain line in the armhole area. You may want to draw 2 lines perpendicular to the slash line to aid in keeping everything lined up after spreading.

* Put the altered center and side fronts together at the princess seam line and place over the traced armhole/shoulder. Match at the neckline/shoulder intersection and the armhole/side seam intersection and trace the armhole onto the altered front pieces.

By tracing the armhole and shoulder line before the alteration you have preserved that line so you haven't changed the shoulder area while moving the bust fullness where you need it.

Joanne

------
joy and gladness shall be found therein, thanksgiving, and the voice of melody. Isaiah 51:3

so many ideas, so much fiber, so little time
http://fiberfan.blogspot.com

Sewshot
Sewshot
Intermediate
Georgia USA
Member since 7/28/06
Posts: 18
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In reply to fiberfan


Date: 10/24/09 10:18 PM

Thank you, Joanne, that seems very clear. I've been very confused about how to handle this, but now I think I can do it. One more question: since I've already traced and altered these two pattern pieces to lower the bust, would you suggest I make these changes using the altered pattern pieces, or should I start over and make these changes using the original pattern, then lower the bust? Or does it matter which change is done first?

------
Joan

fiberfan
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fiberfan
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Utah USA
Member since 2/25/06
Posts: 991
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In reply to Sewshot


Date: 10/26/09 2:23 PM

I would use the altered pattern pieces.

------
joy and gladness shall be found therein, thanksgiving, and the voice of melody. Isaiah 51:3

so many ideas, so much fiber, so little time
http://fiberfan.blogspot.com

Sewshot
Sewshot
Intermediate
Georgia USA
Member since 7/28/06
Posts: 18
Send Message

      



In reply to fiberfan


Date: 10/26/09 7:47 PM

That's what I'll do, then. Thanks so much.

------
Joan

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