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  Message Board > Patterns and Notions > Cowl neck & Grain line ( Moderated by Pyrose)

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Cowl neck & Grain line
Any way other than on the bias?
Kristine Kay
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Kristine Kay  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/30/09 2:28 PM

I've found a fabulous ombred fabric that goes from burgundy to black (selvedge to selvedge). I really want to make a sheath dress with a deep cowl neck for the holiday parties, but know that cowl necks are supposed to be cut on the bias. I'm trying to stick with a pattern that would be one front piece from shoulder to knee with waist/bust darts for fitting, to preserve the color gradation.

I'm wondering if there is a way to add a neck drape to give it a cowl neck appearance. The fabric is fairly pricey, so I don't want to buy more than I need to. Ideas???

goodworks1
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goodworks1  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/31/09 0:20 AM

This is an interesting question, but I'm thinking it's pretty hard to answer without knowing more about the fabric.

In any case, I'm bumping this to see if other people have ideas...

What were you thinking for the drape idea?


Will the dress be black at the bottom and burgundy at the top or will the gradation go horizonatlly? What color did you want at the cowl/drape?

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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com

emelle
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Reply to Kristine Kay
Date: 10/31/09 9:37 AM

I read your question last night and thought about it and really need a little more info...as goodworks said...about what type of fabric and the pattern you have in mind...

If the fabric is a knit, you have many more options....HP for example has a cowl neck top in the three graces tee shirts that could be made sleeveless (no binding) or with sleeves and elongated into a dress....I've just made it and it is easy to cut out with the cowl and facing in one piece on the front.
HP three graces tee.

If the fabric is a woven, my experience with loose, cowl type collars is that they are cut on the bias and sewn to the bodice which has been cut on the straight grain.....the bias allowing the stretch needed to get the collar to go around the neckline....like this pattern (not what you need, but you get the idea).

SW loose turtle neck in woven fabric

You can always lengthen a top into a simple dress, so if you don't find a dress pattern, think of lengthening a top you like.

Maybe others will have more ideas...but it mostly depends on your fabric.

Kristine Kay
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Kristine Kay  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/31/09 2:17 PM

The fabric is silk, and I was planning on using the burgundy at the neckline and the black at the hem. I like this gown from the Nov. Burda, with the cowl in front.
V-back dress
But, the bodice is all pieced and I only want it knee length, so I was thinking about using this sheath from the same issue, but modifying the neckline. Sheath Dress

Thanks ladies, I appreciate your help!
Kristine

emelle
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Reply to Kristine Kay
Date: 10/31/09 6:55 PM

Sounds like you might be cutting the silk on the cross grain then...if the color goes selvege to selvege and you want the color to change from burgundy at top to black at bottom...since most sheath dresses are cut with the grain running top to bottom...not sure if this will matter in this fabric...just if it is very expensive, I might make sure it will hang correctly etc.

Others with more party/formal dress experience will probably know better than I about this.

Vivienne
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Vivienne
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Date: 11/3/09 0:09 AM

I made Butterick 5388 view B recently from silk charmeuse and cut the cowl parallel to the grain due to fabric constraints. It worked out perfectly.

Sheepishly no review as yet - I somehow put my camera cord in my husband's camera bag before he left for a month long trip and am too cheap to buy another one.

Here's the pattern pic.

------
Cheap fabrics, like cheap shoes, are a false economy.

Kaitlinnegan
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Date: 11/3/09 3:53 PM

How about doing a test version of the BWOF pattern(s) in a cheap fabric with similar drape to your silk? Maybe something like a polyester peachskin or some similar poly silky fabric might do the trick?

Kristine Kay
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Kristine Kay  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/3/09 9:45 PM

Thanks for your experience and the pattern pic, gives me renewed hope!
Using a similar weight and drape is excellent advice, I was just lamenting over the size of my stash, and a test garment would be a great way to kill 2 birds with 1 stone!

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