Date: 11/6/09 9:47 AM

I'm about to do a vampire show with two of my harder to fit actors. One is 49 chest but a 60 girth. The other a 60 chest , 66 girth.

I've got the directions to make a full abdomin adjustment. (IE slit side front to arm hold pivot point , and open it up enough to acomendate the difference in belly room. )

My concern is how much is too much? The difference of Guy 2 isn't as considerable, but Guy 1 we are going to need to add about 12 inches !

Any suggestions?

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"Costume Tech's are overworked, underpaid, and underappreciated except to those designers, actors, directors, playwrights, and other theater artists who depend on them." - The Costume Technicians Handbook

Date: 11/6/09 12:31 PM

What is the male equivalent of a princess seam? a prince seam?

Sounds like you're trying to put a vest on Henry the 8th

I think you might have better luck with a curved fitting seam that starts in the armscye and ends at the vest hem. It would allow you to take into account the contour of his chest, and slightly "pull in" the bottom edge of the vest so that it doesn't just hang off of his paunch; it could hug the curve, so to speak.

Reply to LouisaP
Date: 11/6/09 2:12 PM

Actually you are not far off the Henry the 8th idea. He doesn't mind it hanging off of it. He has been begging me from a couple years to make him a vest out side of a play.
Link to one of my reviews where he is the model.

This should give you an idea of what I'm running up against.

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"Costume Tech's are overworked, underpaid, and underappreciated except to those designers, actors, directors, playwrights, and other theater artists who depend on them." - The Costume Technicians Handbook

Date: 11/6/09 3:25 PM

Good lord! And I thought I had problems with my FBA.....nothing in comparison to that!

I still think it's a better idea to fit the back piece and the shoulder seams and the armhole and the side seam, and add the "girth" via a vertical prince seam and adding to the center front. Some combination of the two should cover all that tummy. But your pattern pieces are going to look ludicrous lying flat on the fabric, I warn you

Date: 11/6/09 4:35 PM

Ok So I'll make a mock up to see what fits in the shoulders and back. Then split it until it fits in the front , and measure how much I need to add to the front.

I kind of thought it would looks a little odd on the flat. My next challange would be figureing out how much fabric to get.

FYI A girl told me once that she had to make a victorian vest for a Dicken's play for a 72 inch waist genetle men. The best she could tell me was "Darts and swinging the side and fronts the best you can." As much as it is a hassle, they will love you for it.

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"Costume Tech's are overworked, underpaid, and underappreciated except to those designers, actors, directors, playwrights, and other theater artists who depend on them." - The Costume Technicians Handbook

Date: 11/7/09 2:49 AM

I haven't done much menswear and can't help, but am putting in a plea for an update when you have it sorted out. I'd love to see a pic of the final pattern.

Date: 11/9/09 5:01 PM

After talking to one of my "Large Mammal" friends he recomended I make the back a little big , and add an elastic band to tighten it up. That way it has a little "give". The reason being that when a large guy sits down everything slides a bit forward. That is why a guy can look great standing but soon as he sits he gets "gap ossis" .

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"Costume Tech's are overworked, underpaid, and underappreciated except to those designers, actors, directors, playwrights, and other theater artists who depend on them." - The Costume Technicians Handbook

Date: 11/11/09 4:21 AM

I remember this alt when I was making a shirt for DH..who isn't as big as the guy you're fitting, but had the same issue.

Alt for large abdomen

Date: 11/11/09 12:30 PM

I was planning on doing that particular alteration but it is going to be a BIG one.

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"Costume Tech's are overworked, underpaid, and underappreciated except to those designers, actors, directors, playwrights, and other theater artists who depend on them." - The Costume Technicians Handbook