Date: 11/7/09 4:57 AM

I am working on a pattern (KS 3280) that has a bias facing on the jewel neckline (a button-down blouse). I just found a fabric from my stash that I'd like to use as a binding that will give the blouse some pizazz (the main bit of the shirt is 100% kona cotton, and the fabric I'd like to add is Indonesian Ikat), so my options as I can see them are:

1) use the ikat as a single bias binding (although how do I deal with the facing where the buttons go, and it is pretty thick to have to deal with 4 layers of ikat), or

2) do I just the cotton bias facing as per the directions, and then topstitch a band of the ikat on the front of the bodice, kind of like what one would do with rick rack. (but will this look "homemade"?)

Suggestions? Also, if I would also like to use the ikat down the front of the blouse to provide some vertical interest how do I do this?

Thanks in advance.

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Date: 11/7/09 9:02 PM

When I search for KS 3280 I get an apron. Is that the correct pattern number? Or maybe you have a discontinued pattern?
Without seeing what the pattern looks like, I'm wondering if you can just turn the bias facing to the outside instead of the inside. So, instead of sewing the facing right sides together, you sew wrong sides together.

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Doing my part to stimulate the economy, one yard at a time.

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Date: 11/7/09 10:09 PM

So sorry, it is KS 3289, my typo,

Kwik Sew 3289

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Date: 11/8/09 0:11 AM

hmmm, this is a tough one. I'll give you my take on it, but maybe someone else will chime in with a better idea.

I have the pattern and took a look at the construction. If you want the ikat to show on the outside, I think it would be best to draft a facing using the top of the bodice pattern. Just trace along the top edge and make the facing your desired width...don't forget to add a hem allowance so you can finish the bottom edge of the facing.
If you want the ikat to run down the front, you will have to make a separate facing for the front as well by cutting on the front/front-facing along the fold line and adding seam allownaces to the cut edges.
I think I would then tape the two facings together making one big facing that goes up the front and around the neckline.
To apply the facing, sew right side of facing to wrong side of bodice and turn to the outside of the blouse, finish the facing edges, then topstitch them down.
Hope this makes sense....I'm not great at describing it!
-- Edited on 11/8/09 0:20 AM --

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Doing my part to stimulate the economy, one yard at a time.

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Date: 11/8/09 0:23 AM

I've been trying to find a picture of this and there is one at the bottom of THIS article. The directions are also listed next to the picture.
HTH!

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Doing my part to stimulate the economy, one yard at a time.

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Date: 11/8/09 4:04 AM

Hi,

You can replace the front facing with a placket and keep the jewel binding. This is closer in style to the Kwiksew pattern, rather than an outside facing and will avoid too much fabric at the top buttonhole.



To do this:
* Decide how wide the placket is going to be. It needs to be at least the width of the buttonholes plus an even amount on each side.
* Cut out a placket peice twice the finished width plus 2x S.A.; with the length equal to the front length plus width of finished neck binding, plus 2x S.A. This can be bias or straight cut.
* Cut out a peice of interfacing the width of the placket peice.
* Attach the interfacing to one half of your placket.
* On the buttonhole side of your blouse (right side?) cut back the front to the placket width MINUS S.A. So if placket is 2'' cut back 1 3/8''.
* Attach the binding as directed. On the buttonhole side cut the end even with the edge of the fabric. This doesn't need any finishing as it will be inside the placket.
* Attach front facing to non-placket side as directed. (these two may be in the opposite order).
* On the buttonhole side sew the front and interfaced placket edge right sides together, with the placket extending past the neckline by S.A. (it will be shorter than the front by (hem-S.A).
* Trim the S.A if needed (especially if your buttonhole is going to end closer than 5/8'' to the edge).
* On the remaining long edge of the placket press the S.A. to the inside. Trim S.A. as above.
* Fold over the placket wrong sides together and sew along the top even with the binding. Trim the corner off.
* Sew along the bottom of the placket even with the finished hem. Trim the corner off.
* Turn the placket right side out and press.
* Sew the inside placket edge in place - either stitch-in-the-ditch or hand sew down.
* Hem as per instructions

I hope this is helpful (it was fun to write up)

Regards Kayseri


-- Edited on 11/8/09 4:05 AM --

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Date: 11/8/09 9:41 AM

Did you draw that up (paste in the fabrics)? Good job on it.

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With a great wardrobe that's still in the flat-fabric stage.
Fabric = clothing (some assembly required) (from Re Becca's DH)

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Date: 11/8/09 2:07 PM

Kayseri, WOW!! First of all, your instructions are brilliant, but your modification of the picture has absolutely convinced me that the OP has a brilliant idea that's going to turn a blouse that looks ho-hum in the pattern drawing into something spectacular!

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~Gem in the prairie

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Reply to stirwatersblue
Date: 11/8/09 4:55 PM

Thanks for the compliments ladies. The picture was kind of an accident - clicked the 'inverse colors' button by mistake - but the fabric looked great so I kept it.

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Reply to Kayseri
Date: 11/8/09 11:08 PM

I agree, beautiful illustration with an elegant solution to the problem. Now I want to do the contrast binding too!

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Doing my part to stimulate the economy, one yard at a time.

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