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Janome 16231
JillyBean333
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JillyBean333
Intermediate
Minnesota USA
Member since 10/20/07
Posts: 943
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Date: 11/15/09 10:35 AM

Hi Ladies...so this is the machine I purchased for my quilting class and the class was yesterday. So I really put it through it's paces and tried some things out.

I have to say that yet again the stitches just don't seem sturdy enough...nor do they seem quite right. I was doing some stitches off the edge of my sample and didn't reverse or knot them at the end and they pulled out REALLY easily (the plan was to serge the edges when done...but they started pulling out before I could even get to that point. My tension looks right.

So basically, I don't understand. I know numerous people that sew awesome and wonderful things on these less spendy machines (my one friend has a little bit better kenmore that she uses and her quilts are amazing...and the stitches don't pull out).

I've had 4 or 5 low-end machines in the past couple years and have ended up selling them. I have to be doing something wrong. That many machines and they all have stitches that pull out so easily. The tension on the front/back looks fine. I'm a stickler for getting it set properly and I know how to do it.

Any advice. Am I being too picky and am Viking "brain- damaged" I love my D1...but it seems these lesser models should be able to make a stitch which keeps two pieces of fabric together. Who wants to invest their time sewing stuff that will just pull out in a month?

Thanks again, maybe I just need to find one of the Freesias on Ebay or something for my class machine...but I'm really trying to "make it work" as I still think it's got to be me and not so much the machine.

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JillyBean
http://craftysupreme.etsy.com

Seams2Sew
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Seams2Sew
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In reply to JillyBean333


Date: 11/15/09 4:59 PM

Have you let someone else try out the machine? Seeing what kind of results someone else gets should answer your question as to whether it's you or the machine.

There's nothing wrong with liking one brand of sewing machine over another . Hope you can find a class machine that you love!

Betakin
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Betakin
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Arizona USA
Member since 4/22/04
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In reply to JillyBean333


Date: 11/15/09 5:21 PM

If this is the same machine as the Janome made Kenmore 16231 there must be a problem or it could be out of adjustment in some way because I believe this is a well liked machine by owners.

lucybear

lucybear
Member since 10/26/05
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In reply to JillyBean333


Date: 11/15/09 6:15 PM

I have this problem with Janome,one of the dealers told me to turn the bobbin case about a 1/4 of a turn.that worked.then I also bought a new bobbin case and also had to tighten that one,especially for knits.
Good luck!

Betakin
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Betakin
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Arizona USA
Member since 4/22/04
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In reply to lucybear


Date: 11/15/09 10:28 PM

lucybear,
You stated that you had to buy a new bobbin case plus tighten it? Do you mean your Janome has a front load bobbin where you have to set the bobbin into a metal bobbin case then set the case into the front of the machine and you can tighten or loosen a screw to change the bobbin tension?
I think the 16231 has a top load horizontal drop in bobbin and comes with preset bobbin tension.

sewfrequent

sewfrequent
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Texas USA
Member since 6/27/03
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In reply to JillyBean333


Date: 11/16/09 7:48 AM

I was going to suggest the same thing Lucybear suggested. I also had this problem with janome-made Viking (huskystar) and I did tighten the bobbin screw. Betakin--i don't now remember where the screw was but i think on that black thing that lifts out? well in any case (pun intended) it did work. My problem was the stitches were slanting some and this fixed it. I did the same thing with another Janome-made machine and all went well afterward. Do let us know when you try this. There are 2 screws if I recall....i think i tightened the one that turned easily

JillyBean333
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JillyBean333
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Minnesota USA
Member since 10/20/07
Posts: 943
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In reply to sewfrequent


Date: 11/16/09 11:27 AM

Hrm...turn the bobin screw. I AM going to give that a try, because my MIL also has a Janome which has that "auto" tension thing and if it is on the "auto" setting the bobbin thread is extremely loose and with 2 layers of muslin I can get it to work if I turn it to a 7 tension setting. This seems a bit on the high side for a top tension setting and such thin material.

Thanks ladies...and yes I have been trolling ebay for one of the basic Viking machines (made in Sweden) and the prices are actually really good on those right now. Oh again with the sheer guilt of it al...but I should realize I am just a Viking girl through and through...though sadly those Made in Sweden Vikings will probably be pretty scarce in a few years. That 16231 is a nice machine and the feature set is fabulous on it. I'll go play with the bobbin case (since I'm really not very scared to do so, I just didn't think of it).

If I do find a good Viking for a class machine, I will probably end up just doing regular sewing on that and leave my D1 set up for embroidery unless I need to extra stitches for something, but I find that I pretty much sew with a straight and a zig-zag and that pretty much does it.

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JillyBean
http://craftysupreme.etsy.com

JillyBean333
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JillyBean333
Intermediate
Minnesota USA
Member since 10/20/07
Posts: 943
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In reply to JillyBean333


Date: 11/16/09 12:12 PM

Yay, I think I got it. Well for the straight stitch anyway. It sews and there is just a little "dot" of the top thread showing on the back of the sample (which I think is correct, no?). And I even fixed both ends and then pulled really hard and the fabric was giving more than the stitching...so YAY!!! And it's set at a much more reasonable top tension of 5.

The straight stitch is still a bit run together for my taste, but I just think that's how those machines are. It doesn't look like a viking straight stitch, but it's probably not supposed to.I've gone into that rant before.

I did try one of the decorative stitches though and the top thread was pulled through a little bit loosely onto the back of the work....so I'm not entirely sure how that's supposed to look. Anyway, I've gotta run out for some errands but will attempt some things like zig-zag etc when I get home.

I didn't get it...I just tried the zig zag and the bobbin thread is way too tight.
-- Edited on 11/16/09 1:54 PM --

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JillyBean
http://craftysupreme.etsy.com

sewfrequent

sewfrequent
Intermediate
Texas USA
Member since 6/27/03
Posts: 3238
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In reply to JillyBean333


Date: 11/16/09 12:24 PM

Jilly, how do the satins stitches look from the top? You're supposed to see some of the top thread on the bottom. And yes, Viking is noted for the most perfect straight stitch. Looks as good as that of the old Singer models. Maybe tighten that bobbin screw a tad bit more and see what happens bc it sounds like there's room for improvement still. You can get a lovely straight stitch out of Janome machines. As far as Viking...see if you can snag a 350. Those have good features and solid. I had one and sold it years ago. Currently I own a 445 (Interlude) and love it even tho it doesn't have all the features I'm used to...I still use it for all garment sewing now.

Betakin
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Betakin
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Arizona USA
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In reply to JillyBean333


Date: 11/16/09 12:43 PM

Good that you got the straight stitch working better. I know with the front load bobbins it is easy to change bobbin tension with the screw on the bobbin case but with a New Home or Janome top load bobbin machine there is a screw in the bobbin area but they use what is called thread control rather than bobbin tension. It is a separate function that controls the amount of bobbin thread released for each stitch. The amount of thread pulled off for each stitch comes from a bar under the needle plate and the amount of thread it releases is programmed for each stitch in electronic machines.This feature according to the New Home book gives better stitch quality with less tunneling.

Since this thread control function is seen more in the deco stitches..where smaller lengths of thread and longer lengths need to be released at different intervals for different deco stitches..maybe that is why your machine is not doing the deco stitches correctly if this is out of adjusment.
When upper and lower tension is adjusted properly the stitches "should" look the same on both sides fabric. One of my machines is a Kenmore, a computerized model with auto tension. I do think the Kenmore or Janome SFS (Superior Feed System) makes a great stitch even when compared to my other machines..a Brother, Pfaff and Viking.
I hope you end up with lovely stitches on your machine.
-- Edited on 11/16/09 12:52 PM --

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