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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Jacket FBA

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Jacket FBA
Horizontal dart out of a welt pocket!
Markie1
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Markie1  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/29/09 10:12 PM

Well I am at a loss as to how to move and enlarge a horizontal dart in a jacket pattern that has the dart rising out of the welt pocket. It is for a McCalls Jacket
I can't really move it to fit my bust point because it would move the dart out of the pocket (I think). Can I angle it? I will try to post a pic of the pattern piece...click here
Thanks for any help you can give me.
I am currently bummed that I missed the PR Birthday chat!
-- Edited on 11/29/09 10:13 PM --
-- Edited on 11/29/09 10:32 PM --
-- Edited on 11/29/09 10:39 PM --

Fictionfan
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Date: 11/29/09 11:56 PM

Make your bust adjustment however it is needed to make the jacket fit you the way you want it to fit. The pocket is made after the dart is sewn, so it doesn't matter whether the dart is moved or falls into the pocket. After you have the FBA done, put the pocket and welt where it works best. If that happens to have the dart arising from the pocket and you like it, fine. If not, it will be easier to sew if you don't have to sew it over the dart. It's all a matter of what you want it to look like and how the function of the garment is best for you.
HTH

------
Fictionfan

Markie1
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Markie1  Friend of PR
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In reply to Fictionfan


Date: 11/30/09 11:50 AM

Hi FF-
thanks for your reply! I would, ordinarily just make the changes regardless of the welt placement, but the pattern is a little tricky in that there is a deliberate slash right under the dart going into the pocket placement. I am not experienced enough with FBA's to make those adjustments when it is not straightforward. I think that is my problem. Maybe I will just make it as is and hope for the best!

Tom P
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In reply to Markie1


Date: 11/30/09 4:27 PM

Hi, Markie,

I hate those darts that end in the pocket welt. I have done this sort of pattern before, although the DGF isn't 100% thrilled with my previous attempts at bust alteration. Still ...

I would try shifting the dart over and shortening so the point is about 1in. directly below your new bust point. I would keep the width of the dart at the pocket mouth the same, even if I had to extend the welt opening a little more toward the front.

Shortening the dart will accentuate it's effect, and the resulting pattern may work ok for you. I'd try a muslin after just this alteration, and add a horizontal dart to either the side seam or armscye (Maybe the armscye? I have no idea if this would look right) if the muslin looks like it needs it.

A couple of suggestions for the welt pocket (don't know if these will be helpful). Don't slash the pocket mouth all the way to its inner end until the welts are sewn in place. After slashing the mouth partway and stitching the dart, I'd close the slash back up temporarily with a piece of fusible to hold everything in place while making the welt opening. I suppose you could also zigzag the raw edges of the slash to a piece of stabilizer.

Tom

mamafitz
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Date: 11/30/09 6:13 PM

markie -- i'd probably do like tom says, and move whole dart over and just extend the welt to the dart, if needed. i just did a jacket for my son that had the dart ending into the welt. i zig zagged the slash shut (just together, no stabilizer or anything. the entire jacket front was interfaced), because i had to sew a seam there as well before making the welt.

------
Linda

Girls do not dress for boys. They dress for themselves, and of course, each other. If girls dressed for boys, they’d just walk around naked at all times.
-- Betsey Johnson


http://mamafitz.blogspot.com

Markie1
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In reply to Tom P


Date: 11/30/09 6:18 PM

Tom- wow-what great suggestions. I will make a muslin and i will shorten the dart, I think that is a GREAT idea. Thanks so much!
-- Edited on 11/30/09 6:21 PM --

Markie1
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In reply to mamafitz


Date: 11/30/09 6:20 PM

Thanks mamafitz--i have never made this particular pocket/dart configuration before--the idea both you and Tom had of closing off the welt slash is a good one, as there will be a bit of manipulation of fabric for this pattern. Thanks!

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