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Message Board > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Invisible zipper question ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Invisible zipper question
How can a zipper be installed without a hump up top
Idosew
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Idosew
Intermediate
NY USA
Member since 2/6/07
Posts: 14
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Date: 12/2/09 8:59 PM

I recently received an email from a friend asking if I knew how to avoid a hump at the top of an invisible zipper installation. I haven't seen this addressed before, most invisible zipper issues seem to be related to the bubble at the bottom during a closed seam installation. We both must be doing something wrong. How can this be corrected?
Thanks,
Cathy

Luckylibbet
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Luckylibbet
CA USA
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In reply to Idosew


Date: 12/3/09 0:52 AM

I don't know if this will help with your problem but I swear by this tutorial on installing invisible zippers:

Sewing Divas Invisible Zip Tutorial

It's more work, but provides the smoothest invisible zipper installation I've ever seen.

- HTH

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Suo ergo maledicto

Your time is limited, so don't waste it living someone else's life. Don't be trapped by dogma - which is living with the results of other people's thinking. Don't let the noise of others' opinions drown out your own inner voice. And most important, have the courage to follow your heart and intuition. They somehow already know what you truly want to become. Everything else is secondary. - Steve Jobs

Sewliz
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Sewliz  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/4/09 8:10 AM

There are several good tutorials for installing invisible zippers but they only talk about sewing the zipper along it's side. I have yet to see an article or tutorial that really addresses finishing the top of an invisible zip with a facing or anything else at the edge of a garment in a polished RTW manner.

Also, it's difficult to replicate that nice RTW edge with the thicker invisible zippers that are sold to home sewers now. RTW often uses lovely lightweight flexible zippers with a mesh like tape area. Once upon a time I could buy those at Hancocks. Where can I get them now?

------
Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

Luckylibbet
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Luckylibbet
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In reply to Sewliz


Date: 12/4/09 12:28 PM

You can also try this excellent tutorial from Fashion-Incubator

Fashion-Incubator Invisible Zipper Part 1

Fashion-Incubator Invisible Zipper Part 2

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Suo ergo maledicto

Your time is limited, so don't waste it living someone else's life. Don't be trapped by dogma - which is living with the results of other people's thinking. Don't let the noise of others' opinions drown out your own inner voice. And most important, have the courage to follow your heart and intuition. They somehow already know what you truly want to become. Everything else is secondary. - Steve Jobs

Sewliz
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In reply to Luckylibbet


Date: 12/4/09 8:09 PM

Those are good, I like Kathleen's writing. I have seen those posts before and looking at them again I still say the top of the zipper finish isn't really addressed. RTW often turns under and folds in the zipper coil to make the zipper pull together at the top when closed. The zipper stops at the top of a usual zipper are not used or visible, it is the tape disappearing into the seam. Then there is the bulk of the zipper tape at the top finish, where to put it etc. I have mostly figured it out using the thick stiff invisible zips sold in sewing stores. It just seems like a gap in sewing information and being nerdy I guess I feel the need to bring it up!

I recently had a near disaster trying to replace a broken zip in RTW velvet burnout pants for a friend though, it was like applying boning to the soft drapey fabric. The broken zipper I took out was that flexible mesh type with a thinner coil.

------
Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

Luckylibbet
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Luckylibbet
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In reply to Sewliz


Date: 12/5/09 2:05 PM

Liz,

I think you're right, us folks at home just don't have the same resources as industry. I wonder if there are any mail order/internet sources? in LA or NY?

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Suo ergo maledicto

Your time is limited, so don't waste it living someone else's life. Don't be trapped by dogma - which is living with the results of other people's thinking. Don't let the noise of others' opinions drown out your own inner voice. And most important, have the courage to follow your heart and intuition. They somehow already know what you truly want to become. Everything else is secondary. - Steve Jobs

Heidi Cooper
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Heidi Cooper  Friend of PR
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In reply to Sewliz
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 12/5/09 2:50 PM

I just found this ebay store: Zipperstop when reading the Diva link above. They have the mesh invisible zippers in several sizes and colors! Woohoo

Now, I wonder how fast the shipping is~ I need one for a silk taffeta skirt I am making *right NOW* lol

heidi

NAYY and all that...

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“Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.” -Mahatma Gandhi
“ Freedom is not worth having if it does not include the freedom to make mistakes.” -Mahatma Gandhi

Now Blogging at http://sewexotic.blogspot.com/

petro
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petro  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/6/09 4:27 AM

Sewliz this must be telepathy or something. I was just about to start a new thread asking if anyone had the definitive finish for the top of a zipper which comes to the waist of a skirt or neck of a dress, finished with or without facing (using lining as facing for example). It seems to me that when you turn over the top edge of the garment, by whatever means, there is a small part at the top by the zip which never looks quite right. The zipper teeth have to rest behind the top (outer fabric), so as you turn the facing or lining to the wrong side either the teeth would be enclosed - useless - or there's a little chunk of fabric turnings which can't be properly enclosed. I usually end up hand stitching this in a quite bodgy way to keep the turnings down and back from the zip head, but is there a perfect answer?

Sewliz
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In reply to petro


Date: 12/6/09 4:33 PM

I haven't thought about zippers in quite a while so maybe there is something in the air all the way around the globe. There must be a perfect answer because top quality RTW has invisible zips with little bulk at the top and the zips pull the edges together well without a gap or lump or zipper coil showing. Armani does it, why can't we? I'll have to go back to Saks to inspect the zipper installations again and consider this engineering problem.

When an invisible zipper is sewn in the tape and coils get flattened out for sewing. When it is zipped the coil curls into the tape again. If we sew the zipper in all the way to the top in the flattened state and finish the top with a facing the zipper can't curl back in that area.

I solved the zipper problem in my skirts last summer by sewing my favorite pattern for wovens in a knit and using an elastic waistband. LOL, that's almost like cheating.

Els sent me a link to a UK ebay vendor that sells the mesh zippers, Sewing Expert. There is one in Germany too, here. Thanks!

------
Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

LynnRowe
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LynnRowe  Friend of PR
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Subject: Soft zip tape... Date: 12/9/09 8:54 PM

YKK's Beulon® knit tape.

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