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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > changing pattern to bias

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changing pattern to bias
change the pattern or the fabric?
sewing haumana
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sewing haumana
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Date: 2/6/10 6:21 PM

I'm making an empire waist dress that has a band between the bodice and the skirt. Since the fabric is plaid, I thought it would be nice to put the band on the bias (plus, then I don't have to worry as much about matching the plaid!). The front band goes on the fold and I'm not sure how to adjust the pattern to make it bias. I'm guessing I would fold the fabric on the bias, then use that fold as the new centre front fold? My brain seems to have totally shut down on this one!

Thanks for any help.

Therisa
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Therisa
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In reply to sewing haumana


Date: 2/6/10 8:42 PM

Probably better to make another of the same pattern piece and pin it together so that you don't have to fold the fabric in order to lay the pattern piece on the bias.

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CathrynR
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CathrynR  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/7/10 10:51 AM

What I would do is convert my pattern piece to a whole pattern piece. In other words it would be placed on a single layer of fabric and cut out without a fold. This way you can visualize exactly how the plaid will be placed. Also, as bias stretches, and this is a front band which you would not want to stretch out of shape/size, I probably would (very carefully, not stretching the fabric) first fuse a lightweight interfacing to a larger section of the fashion fabric before cutting out the band. Then lay my full pattern piece on the fused fabric with the fabric right side up before cutting. Fusing interfacing to the fabric before you cut it ensures that the seam lines/match marks will not stretch out of position before you seam it to joining pieces.

Elona
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In reply to CathrynR


Date: 2/7/10 12:13 PM

Yup, bias wants to stretch, and I'd worry a bit about a bias band in that area wrinkling and adding bulges exactly where I didn't need them.

Miss Fairchild
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Date: 2/7/10 1:16 PM

Take your band piece pattern, draw a line through the grainline marking at a right angle (you should now have an X.) Then draw a line through the middle of this X and that will be your bias line.

Being as the fabric will be cut on the bias, with stretch, I'd reinforce it with a nice piece of medium weight iron on interfacing.

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sewing haumana
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sewing haumana
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Date: 2/7/10 4:35 PM

Thanks for all your suggestions. I'll definitely turn the half pattern piece into a full one. I, too, was concerned about the amount of stretch, but I'm thinking (hoping) that stabilising it with interfacing should help it from not stretching too much (I like the idea about fusing the fabric first before I cut out the pattern piece).

All this work, just to get out of matching plaid!!!

Nancy K
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In reply to sewing haumana


Date: 2/7/10 5:28 PM

As said above, you need to make a full pattern for the band, and you need to change the grain line, not refold your fabric. It would cross the straight grain at 45 degrees, you'd make a new grain line and this is what you line up with the straight grain, automatically giving you the bias. It does stretch and I'd interface it with a interfacing cut on the straight grain.

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