SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Platinum Sponsor
PatternReview.com
PatternReview.com

Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > changing pattern to bias

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
changing pattern to bias
change the pattern or the fabric?
sewing haumana
star
sewing haumana
Intermediate
British Columbia CANADA
Member since 6/18/04
Posts: 22
Send Message

      



Date: 2/6/10 6:21 PM

I'm making an empire waist dress that has a band between the bodice and the skirt. Since the fabric is plaid, I thought it would be nice to put the band on the bias (plus, then I don't have to worry as much about matching the plaid!). The front band goes on the fold and I'm not sure how to adjust the pattern to make it bias. I'm guessing I would fold the fabric on the bias, then use that fold as the new centre front fold? My brain seems to have totally shut down on this one!

Thanks for any help.

Therisa
starstar
Therisa
Advanced
Michigan USA
Member since 4/1/07
Posts: 936
Send Message

      



In reply to sewing haumana


Date: 2/6/10 8:42 PM

Probably better to make another of the same pattern piece and pin it together so that you don't have to fold the fabric in order to lay the pattern piece on the bias.

------
Fabric Purchased in 2011: 37 yards
Fabric Sewn in 2011: 0 yards
Current Contest Moderator: Lined Jacket
Current Contest Participant: Mini Wardrobe

CathrynR
star
CathrynR  Friend of PR
Intermediate
New Hampshire USA
Member since 6/26/08
Posts: 787
Send Message

      



Date: 2/7/10 10:51 AM

What I would do is convert my pattern piece to a whole pattern piece. In other words it would be placed on a single layer of fabric and cut out without a fold. This way you can visualize exactly how the plaid will be placed. Also, as bias stretches, and this is a front band which you would not want to stretch out of shape/size, I probably would (very carefully, not stretching the fabric) first fuse a lightweight interfacing to a larger section of the fashion fabric before cutting out the band. Then lay my full pattern piece on the fused fabric with the fabric right side up before cutting. Fusing interfacing to the fabric before you cut it ensures that the seam lines/match marks will not stretch out of position before you seam it to joining pieces.

Elona
star
Elona  Friend of PR
Advanced
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 8516
online now
Send Message

      



In reply to CathrynR


Date: 2/7/10 12:13 PM

Yup, bias wants to stretch, and I'd worry a bit about a bias band in that area wrinkling and adding bulges exactly where I didn't need them.

Miss Fairchild
starstarstarstar
Miss Fairchild
Advanced
USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 7936
Send Message

      



Date: 2/7/10 1:16 PM

Take your band piece pattern, draw a line through the grainline marking at a right angle (you should now have an X.) Then draw a line through the middle of this X and that will be your bias line.

Being as the fabric will be cut on the bias, with stretch, I'd reinforce it with a nice piece of medium weight iron on interfacing.

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
My blog: http://auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com/

sewing haumana
star
sewing haumana
Intermediate
British Columbia CANADA
Member since 6/18/04
Posts: 22
Send Message

      



Date: 2/7/10 4:35 PM

Thanks for all your suggestions. I'll definitely turn the half pattern piece into a full one. I, too, was concerned about the amount of stretch, but I'm thinking (hoping) that stabilising it with interfacing should help it from not stretching too much (I like the idea about fusing the fabric first before I cut out the pattern piece).

All this work, just to get out of matching plaid!!!

Nancy K
starstarstar
Nancy K
Advanced
New York USA
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 8343
Send Message

      



In reply to sewing haumana


Date: 2/7/10 5:28 PM

As said above, you need to make a full pattern for the band, and you need to change the grain line, not refold your fabric. It would cross the straight grain at 45 degrees, you'd make a new grain line and this is what you line up with the straight grain, automatically giving you the bias. It does stretch and I'd interface it with a interfacing cut on the straight grain.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting >> changing pattern to bias

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Online Class
Fun with Fitting - BODICE w Darts
Fun with Fitting - BODICE w Darts

Class Details

Online Class
Sew a Designer Unlined Jacket
Sew a Designer Unlined Jacket

Class Details

Simplicity 5052

photo
by: yummymummy...

Review
SewBaby "I Can Do It" Cloth Activity Book Pattern

SewBaby

More Info
Fit For Real People DVD

Fit For Real People DVD

More Info

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.