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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Wrinkling shirt front after setting in sleeves ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Wrinkling shirt front after setting in sleeves
do i need to adjust the armscye?
oohisay
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oohisay
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Date: 2/7/10 3:49 PM

Hi all,

So, I am in the throes of a set-in sleeve fiasco. I've been working on drafting a sleeve and have focused so much of my attention on the sleeve, that I didn't pay much attention to the armscye. Now, after finally setting in what I thought was a workable sleeve, I realize that something is still very wrong. In the picture attached you can see that there are wrinkles emanating from the armscye across the upper bust region.

It seems like this is fundamentally a shape problem, and I *think* the problem is that the armscye needs scooping out so it's not so straight between the shoulder and the underarm, but I wanted to find out whether my suspicions are, in fact, correct, and also what the best method for adjusting the armscye would be.

And, just as a note, the sleeve cap has about .5" ease and it is not drafted symmetrically (i.e. the front curve is more pronounced than the back). Also, it looks like the sleeve cap is puckered at the shoulder point but I just haven't gotten around to ironing it yet!

Any advice is much appreciated!

Sew4Fun
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In reply to oohisay


Date: 2/7/10 5:11 PM

Link to Photo

It's a bit hard to be sure from one photo, but IMHO it looks like the sleeve is the problem not the armhole. The shoulder seam is very high on your shoulder, which means you need a very high sleeve cap. The wrinkles, and strain in the top of the sleeve, tell me the sleeve cap isn't high enough. If you look closely you can see the sleeve cap is straining to get up and over your shoulder joint. You appear to have drafted a sleeve for an extended shoulder seam. Draft a sleeve with a higher sleeve cap and see if it helps.

Oh and if you want to be sure, before redrafting a new sleeve, unpick the very top of the sleeve seam, just an inch or two on either side of the shoulder seam, and see if the sleeve falls down into place, hanging correctly. HTH

------
Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

oohisay
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oohisay
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Date: 2/7/10 6:28 PM

Interesting! I had assumed the cap was alright since I measured it so many times, but I will do as you suggested to see if it loosens up. It seems to make sense.

Summerlea
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Summerlea
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In reply to oohisay


Date: 2/7/10 10:14 PM

Kathleen at the Fashion Incubator has great info about drafting set in sleeves. It should help you get a tailored, well-fitting sleeve It is possible to have mobility with high armholes, slim sleeves and just-right shoulders.

Kathleen Fasanella
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Kathleen Fasanella  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/8/10 11:51 AM

Just my opinion, the shoulder line is too short. I'll bet if you lengthened it 1/2" or so, that wrinkle would be significantly lessened.

Again imo, the armhole shape is equally important as the sleeve shape. You can design a building with the strongest materials ever but it'll all be for naught if the foundation it's laid on is dicey.

------
http://fashion-incubator.com
Lessons from the sustainable sewing factory floor

oohisay
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oohisay
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Date: 2/8/10 6:47 PM

Thanks, everyone, for your suggestions. A bit of forensics revealed that it was, indeed, the short shoulder seam that was the culprit. The pattern I drafted is actually the right length, but I am ashamed to admit that I didn't add the right seam allowance! Yikes!

I couldn't salvage this shirt for sleeves, but the shortened shoulder seam has made for quite a cute sleeveless shirt, so it wasn't a total loss!

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