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Forum > Fitting Woes > Good book for fitting overweight men ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Good book for fitting overweight men
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SewVeryCreative

SewVeryCreative
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Florida USA
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Date: 2/12/10 7:43 PM

If you're a woman that's carrying a bit of extra fluff, there's a fitting book for you. But if you're a man with some extra cushioning (or sewing for one) there seems to be a dearth of information for altering patterns to fit him.

At least, I can't find anything.

I've been using FFRP and SB's "Fast Fit" ~ but I'd really like something that addresses fitting overweight men ~ like tailoring issues and such. DH really wants me to start sewing clothes for him (and I REALLY want to!!) and I'm stuck as regards sewing a jacket or dress slacks for him.

In RTW, he's a XXXL/3XLT, if that makes a difference.

Or do you guys think I should just stick with FFRP?

Any help, advice, suggestions, comisseration, etc, much appreciated!!!

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Connie in Panama City Beach, Florida :)

"And these children that you spit on, as they try to change their worlds, are immune to your consultations. They're quite aware of what they're going through" ~ David Bowie, "Changes"

http://www.imsewverycreative.blogspot.com

skstern

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Date: 2/12/10 9:56 PM

I am in the same boat as you! My husband has the hardest time finding shirts that fit. He is a 3X in RTW. That is the size we buy to go around the tummy, but then they end up looking ridiculous in the shoulders and neck, and are so long they are a dress. I too could not find any information on fitting men. Can't exactly make bust darts :-)

So, I finished up a shirt for him last weekend that isn't too bad. I actually cut out a XL that fit him very well in shoulders, chest area and back. To accomodate the tummy, I slashed the pattern pretty much on the grain line, and just spread it about 4". (To make a pie shaped wedge). I got this idea from "Shirtmaking" by David Page Coffin. (EXCELLENT book, btw). He describes while draping around a tummy to basically just shift the fabric over the tummy towards the center to accomodate this, so doing a pie shaped wedge basically accomplished the same thing. It worked really well as far as getting it to fit around his stomach, and took pounds off. The only thing that I don't like about this method is that the hem then is a little full and "circular" looking. I used Kwik Sew 3484, view A, done up in a cotton/poly blend from Fabric.com. It was cheap and I wanted a muslin, basically. It would drape beautifully and not be seen at all in a silk or rayon, I think. (Like Tommy Bahama shirts). If he tucks it in, it is great, and better than any other shirt I have ever seen on him. Untucked it doesn't look bad, but I think I am critical :-) I would like to figure out how to tame that extra fullness down by the hem if anyone has any advice.

Anyway, just sharing my experience with it, hope that helps some!

SewVeryCreative

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In reply to skstern


Date: 2/12/10 11:18 PM

Awesome idea, Skstern!! I have David's book (even have his VHS tape ~ but it's still in a box waiting to be unpacked) and I NEVER even thought of looking in there!!



DH almost always tucks his shirt in (ex-Army officer ~ you can take the guy outta the Army, but not the Army outta the guy), so that wouldn't be a problem.

I just bought a "vintage" pattern an hour ago (can't wait to get it!) ~ Simplicity 9477, Men 3XL-6XL separates. I'm hoping to be able to "deconstruct" the patterns to figure out the differences between *them* and the "regular" patterns ~ especially the pants. DH wants some dress pants and casual shorts *BAD*.

And like you said, RTW stinks on ice when it comes to fitting overweight men stylishly. It's all all-elastic waists and dumpy-load-in-his-britches cuts. Which REALLY surprises me when you consider just *how many* men in the USA are overweight.

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Connie in Panama City Beach, Florida :)

"And these children that you spit on, as they try to change their worlds, are immune to your consultations. They're quite aware of what they're going through" ~ David Bowie, "Changes"

http://www.imsewverycreative.blogspot.com

SewVeryCreative

SewVeryCreative
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Date: 2/12/10 11:21 PM

Here's the pattern I just bought!

Simplicity 9477

It's hard to find (cost me $27 with shipping! ), but it's highly recommended by other sewists sewing for their overweight hubbies.

I'm also looking at a few patternmaking books for menswear. VERY expensive, too. Like $90 per. Crap.

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Connie in Panama City Beach, Florida :)

"And these children that you spit on, as they try to change their worlds, are immune to your consultations. They're quite aware of what they're going through" ~ David Bowie, "Changes"

http://www.imsewverycreative.blogspot.com

QuickFade
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QuickFade
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Date: 2/12/10 11:22 PM

I see a lot of older men who were not overweight but have put on some weight and just wear a size or two bigger, making the shoulder seams hang off their shoulders. I wonder how expensive tailors and shirt makers handle this? The way David Page Coffin does? Or some other way? Are there any books just about sewing for men? Or "tailoring" for men?

SewVeryCreative

SewVeryCreative
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In reply to QuickFade


Date: 2/12/10 11:35 PM

Yeah, there's a few books on tailoring for men, but it's usually more for smallish alterations. Or sewing for the "perfect man." AKA, no tummy bumps. :/

Supposedly Connie Crawford's "Patternmaking Made Easy" and Helen Joseph-Armstrong's "Patternmaking for Fashion Design" and Lori Knowles' "The Practical Guide To Patternmaking For Fashion Designers: Menswear" cover sewing/designing/patternmaking for men well.

The first two books run about $90 each. Knowles' book runs about $40. Sure would be nice to thumb through them and see if they're worth it.

I just would like to see if making a pattern for DH from scratch would be easier than the oodles of pattern alterations that I've BEEN doing. :/

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~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
Connie in Panama City Beach, Florida :)

"And these children that you spit on, as they try to change their worlds, are immune to your consultations. They're quite aware of what they're going through" ~ David Bowie, "Changes"

http://www.imsewverycreative.blogspot.com

LiZ
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LiZ  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/13/10 4:13 AM

There is a book Metric Pattern Cutting for Men by Winifred Aldrich available on Amazon. You would have to have a look to see if it is what you need and that it goes to the right size.I have a Women's and Children's book by Winifred Aldrich and have been happy with them.
Liz

Irene Q
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Irene Q  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/13/10 10:30 AM

You might want to get Barbara Deckert's "Sewing for Plus Sizes". It's has nothing at all about fitting men specifically, but she gives very thorough directions for grading up regular patterns to much larger sizes.

Olivia Sews
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Olivia Sews  Friend of PR
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In reply to SewVeryCreative


Date: 2/13/10 1:44 PM

I was looking for info for plus sized men too and I have sort of given up. I was not aware Simplicity had made a pattern for 2x to 6x men. Thanks for posting this. Even the books who talk about sewing for men do not address the larger man. My DH wears a 4xlt. Let us know how this pattern works for you. I wish Simplicity would make these sizes again for men. ARE YOU LISTENING PATTERN COMPANIES?? --Sorry, had to vent

QuickFade
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QuickFade
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Date: 2/13/10 3:10 PM

Whenever I think about sewing for an older man who has extra around the middle, I always wonder if overfitting will make a shirt (or pants) look odd. I've yet to tackle it, but this is an interesting idea. I'm not even talking about very large men, just men who have a bit of a paunch and buy shirts too big for their shoulders.

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