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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Wrinkle Readers, UNITE!!! ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Wrinkle Readers, UNITE!!!
pants muslin from Design it Yourself Clothing
Bobolots
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Bobolots
Intermediate
NY USA
Member since 2/27/03
Posts: 30
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Date: 2/22/10 9:36 AM

Let me first say I love the front. I don't really want to change it if I don't have to. However, the back is another story. I've been poring over the pants threads here and I think I know the answer but wanted to check with the experts first.

FRONT


SIDE


BACK - I have since put in darts...



What I THINK the fix is.... (butt on the right)



AM I ON THE RIGHT TRACK?? This is the best I have ever gotten, ever. I am not looking for perfect, but a little less wrinkly.

Thanks so much!!!
Barbara

JTink
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JTink
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VA USA
Member since 4/20/08
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Date: 2/22/10 11:31 AM

I have the same issue with some of my pants patterns. One of the things that's been suggested to me on this site, is to pull down on the hips until the wrinkles are gone. I have a tendency to pull my pants up high on the hip(to cover my muffin tops ;o-) When I add a bit to the tops of the hip, it helps to reduces the wrinkles. Also you might want to let out the sides (where you have the green dots)just a bit, that might allow it to fall from your hip a little. If your crotch feels right, I wouldn't start with adjusting that area. Hope this helps.

Bobolots
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Bobolots
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NY USA
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In reply to JTink


Date: 2/22/10 11:39 AM

Quote: JTink
I have the same issue with some of my pants patterns. One of the things that's been suggested to me on this site, is to pull down on the hips until the wrinkles are gone. I have a tendency to pull my pants up high on the hip(to cover my muffin tops ;o-) When I add a bit to the tops of the hip, it helps to reduces the wrinkles. Also you might want to let out the sides (where you have the green dots)just a bit, that might allow it to fall from your hip a little. If your crotch feels right, I wouldn't start with adjusting that area. Hope this helps.

thanks for responding, Jtink!

I do plan to add some to the sides -- I was thinking 1/4" on the sideseam (for a total of 1" all over) but I think that step has to be last.

The crotch feels great. It's just the back that feels all tight in that area.
-- Edited on 2/22/10 11:41 AM --
JTink
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JTink
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In reply to Bobolots


Date: 2/22/10 11:48 AM

Did you tug down on the hips a bit, to see if that helped take the wrinkles out? Getting the crotch to fit and feel right is a huge plus. Luckily, you are there already. Just unpin the sides a little and see if the wrinkles fall away. It looks like they are reaching up towards your hip. You are right about the front, it looks great.

Bobolots
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Bobolots
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NY USA
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In reply to JTink


Date: 2/22/10 12:05 PM

Quote: JTink
Did you tug down on the hips a bit, to see if that helped take the wrinkles out? Getting the crotch to fit and feel right is a huge plus. Luckily, you are there already. Just unpin the sides a little and see if the wrinkles fall away. It looks like they are reaching up towards your hip. You are right about the front, it looks great.

the sa for this pants draft is 1/2". You think I should unpick that and do 1/4" on each side?

The back was a mess because in this book she has you draft both front and back with just the front rise measure

Design it Yourself, Patternmaking Simplified
GBK

GBK  Friend of PR
Intermediate
GERMANY
Member since 12/24/07
Posts: 900
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In reply to Bobolots


Date: 2/22/10 1:47 PM

I may be wrong but as I read the wrinkles of the back of your pants, they look a bit different than the right drawing you posted (which shows wrinkles radiating in all directions like a star) but more similar to wrinkles shown on Belinda's blog:
Search for the word 'Sorry' and look at the picture above on the left. Belinda describes how she fixed the wrinkles, and I find her explanations very interesting, I actually want to try them on my 'wrinkled' pants.
All the best,
GBK

------
Happy Sewing!

TallBean
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TallBean
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MD USA
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Date: 2/22/10 2:13 PM

Bobolots,
The front looks great!!! I have a similar problem as yours, wrinkles under the seat. I haven't yet found a solution. It does seem to me that you need more fabric on the back. Your side seam is being pulled towards the back at the top of your pants. I hope you find a solution and that you post a pic of what you eventually come up with!

How do you like the book as a way to draft pants so far?

Brenna

------
http://sewing4myself.blogspot.com/

Bobolots
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Bobolots
Intermediate
NY USA
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Posts: 30
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In reply to GBK


Date: 2/22/10 2:14 PM

Quote: GBK
I may be wrong but as I read the wrinkles of the back of your pants, they look a bit different than the right drawing you posted (which shows wrinkles radiating in all directions like a star) but more similar to wrinkles shown on Belinda's blog:

Search for the word 'Sorry' and look at the picture above on the left. Belinda describes how she fixed the wrinkles, and I find her explanations very interesting, I actually want to try them on my 'wrinkled' pants.

All the best,

GBK

Thank you, GPK. I wasn't sure if that's my situation or not when I saw it. I will take a closer look at the pattern when I get home.
JTink
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JTink
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VA USA
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In reply to Bobolots


Date: 2/22/10 2:19 PM

I thought these were your muslin and you could just unpick and play with them. You are pretty brave doing you own pattern making. I've never attempted that. I feel a lot safer when I start with a blueprint If you are planning on wearing these, one fourth inch seams may not be the best thing. But if they are just a muslin, one fourth inch wouldn't matter as long as you could get the fit right. You can always correct that allowance on the next pair.

Bobolots
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Bobolots
Intermediate
NY USA
Member since 2/27/03
Posts: 30
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In reply to TallBean


Date: 2/22/10 2:28 PM

Quote: TallBean
Bobolots,

The front looks great!!! I have a similar problem as yours, wrinkles under the seat. I haven't yet found a solution. It does seem to me that you need more fabric on the back. Your side seam is being pulled towards the back at the top of your pants. I hope you find a solution and that you post a pic of what you eventually come up with!



How do you like the book as a way to draft pants so far?



Brenna

Thanks for that suggestion. I'm going to take all of them into consideration before I proceed, so keep posting!!!!

So far, I love it... this is only the second muslin. The first one had half my behind hanging out and this is the result of adding a wedge at the center back... oh and I "squared out" (sorry don't know the real term) the hip curve because they looked like jodphurs -- but that might have been my drafting error.

This is the only thing I've tried from the book but I think once I get those back wrinkles manageable (not looking for perfect, I'm not a paper doll) they will be my TNT pants.
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