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Forum > Fitting Woes > Help with pants muslin! ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Help with pants muslin!
Burda 7669
ClaireEmily
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ClaireEmily
Intermediate
Washington USA
Member since 9/28/08
Posts: 413
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Date: 3/1/10 5:39 AM

Hi,
I am attempting to make Burda 7669 link. I have only made one pair of pants before, and they are not really wearable.

Here is my muslin of the size 50 (according to my full hip measurement) with no alterations.

front
side
back

I obviously have a few fit issues! I am not surprised as this is what RTW looks like on me. I am happy with the rise overall though could have a bit more height at the back. I have very serious gaposis at the back. The butt feels too tight. There is _just_ enough ease in the thigh when I sit down, though I wouldn't mind a bit more.

I also hate the shape of the legs, the way it curves in under the saddlebags. yuk. I would like to make this a more wide leg style pant, or at least falling straight from the saddlebags down. To do this should I add to the leg outseam on the front and back, and also to the inseam? or just the outseam?

Also what about the sequence of alterations. Do I have to change one thing and do a new muslin? then change another thing and do another muslin? Or can I do several things at once? If I have to do too many muslins I may go crazy.......

All feedback gratefully accepted...........
=)
Claire

------
Claire - Australian in Seattle

ClaireEmily
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ClaireEmily
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Washington USA
Member since 9/28/08
Posts: 413
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Date: 3/1/10 5:09 PM

An idea that occurred to me overnight was to just make the back pants piece one size bigger and the back waistband one size smaller. Would this be a good starting point?

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Claire - Australian in Seattle

Pinkytoo
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Pinkytoo
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Nevada USA
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In reply to ClaireEmily


Date: 3/1/10 6:06 PM

Burda pants patterns overall fit me great, but I have the same gaposis-in-back-waistband problem. I "cure" it by making as many as 3 darts on both sides of the center back (or 2 quite deep darts on each side) and sizing the back of the waistband to correspond. Also I have to make the center back seam about 2" higher, grading to nothing at the sides.

As for the cupping under the saddlebags - if the pattern curves out and then in on the outer sides, just straighten out the curve so it falls straight or ever-so-slightly-tapered from the widest part of the curve going out.

edited to add: I just looked at your pictures again, and the back dart(s) closest to the center back seam are too long. The should end where your rear just starts to go out. If you make them shorter and deeper it should help with both the too-tight-butt and too-loose-waist issues.


-- Edited on 3/1/10 6:10 PM --

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Sewing is my therapy!

Elaine Dougan
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Elaine Dougan  Friend of PR
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British Columbia CANADA
Member since 1/24/07
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In reply to ClaireEmily


Date: 3/1/10 6:58 PM

Quote:
The butt feels too tight. There is _just_ enough ease in the thigh when I sit down, though I wouldn't mind a bit more.
I am not a ift expert, but have had some experience with the problems that you are facing. I think that you would see some improvement if you added width to the back inseam. That would give you more room for the seat and also help with the back wrinkles.
Do I have to change one thing and do a new muslin? then change another thing and do another muslin? Or can I do several things at once? If I have to do too many muslins I may go crazy....... All feedback gratefully accepted........... =) Claire [QUOTE]
When you make your next muslin , make your seam allowances extra wide. That way you can still change just one thing at a time, but you don't need to cut a new muslin each time. I agree that you need to make three shorter darts in the back. Each dart should get progressively shorter as you get closer to the side seam. The end of the dart should end about one inch above the fullest part of your buttocks. HTH.
ETA I think that you also need to pull down the sides of the pants and/or raise the center back to get rid of some of the wrinkles.
-- Edited on 3/1/10 7:06 PM --

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Elaine

Elona
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Elona  Friend of PR
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In reply to ClaireEmily


Date: 3/1/10 7:28 PM

I'm looking at that huge gap at your back waist. It makes me wonder, just out of curiosity if you used the Burda measurement chart as directed when you traced off your pattern. You say you traced off the pattern based on your hip size, and it looks as though your waist is two or three sizes smaller than the hips. The too-large waist is not usually such a problem if one follows that measurement chart faithfully.

In fact, there are some important steps regarding pants measurements that I'm going to toss in here (I have posted them in response to other questions in the past):

The 'Stride' vs the 'Rise':

These measurements are extremely important in fitting pants--not for choosing a size, but for altering a pattern to fit one's very own bum. You choose your Burda sizes using their chart (not that of any other pattern company) by measuring your waist and hips and circling the appropriate number in the correct column. The stride is the entire length of the crotch seam front to back, between the legs from the navel to the center back waist. For the sake of appearance and comfort, you should measure with the tape held pretty close to the body, with hardly any ease or slack. Then compare that measurement by standing your tape measure on edge and running it along the stitching line of the crotch seam for the pants size you have chosen. You will use this measurement to help make sure there's enough tummy room or sitting room in your pants.

The crotch depth is something that has been determined by putting elastic around your waist, sitting on a hard, flat chair, and having someone hold a ruler up next to your side, checking the vertical distance from the chair to your waistline marker. It measures where the actual bottom of your pelvis is (the ischial tuberosities), and is pretty much the same thing as 'rise.' It doesn't take into account any fullness from soft tissue, such as tummy and bum.

The crotch measurement is a pretty complicated business, a mix of information you get from both sets of measurements. It is possible, for example, to have a very short rise (vertical distance from the waist down to the bones you sit on) combined with a full tummy and bum, which would give you a very long 'stride.'



-- Edited on 3/1/10 7:40 PM --

ClaireEmily
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ClaireEmily
Intermediate
Washington USA
Member since 9/28/08
Posts: 413
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In reply to Elaine Dougan


Date: 3/1/10 7:55 PM

Quote: Elaine Dougan
When you make your next muslin , make your seam allowances extra wide. That way you can still change just one thing at a time, but you don't need to cut a new muslin each time.

This is brilliant. I definitely will do this.

I'll also give your alteration suggestions a go. Thank you!

------
Claire - Australian in Seattle

ClaireEmily
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ClaireEmily
Intermediate
Washington USA
Member since 9/28/08
Posts: 413
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In reply to Elona


Date: 3/1/10 8:04 PM

Quote: Elona
I'm looking at that huge gap at your back waist. It makes me wonder, just out of curiosity if you used the Burda measurement chart as directed when you traced off your pattern. You say you traced off the pattern based on your hip size, and it looks as though your waist is two or three sizes smaller than the hips. The too-large waist is not usually such a problem if one follows that measurement chart faithfully.

Yes you are right about that. My real true waist is about 34" a size 46/20, by low waist (ie where I wear my pants) is a 48/22 and hip a 50/24.

I wasn't sure where to move between lines and blend sizes. From RTW I know that my problem is mostly at the back, so I didn't want to make the front waist too small by going to a smaller size there. I also flat measured the waistband and thought it would be about right. I obviously got that wrong.

Thanks so much for the stride vs rise info. I will go home tonight and give that a go. It wouldn't surprise if my back stride was quite long.

------
Claire - Australian in Seattle

ClaireEmily
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ClaireEmily
Intermediate
Washington USA
Member since 9/28/08
Posts: 413
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In reply to Pinkytoo


Date: 3/1/10 8:08 PM

Quote: Pinkytoo
As for the cupping under the saddlebags - if the pattern curves out and then in on the outer sides, just straighten out the curve so it falls straight or ever-so-slightly-tapered from the widest part of the curve going out.

I will definitely give this a go. I could see the tapering in on the pattern.

I can see what you mean about the darts too long and not wide enough too. I will try that also.
Thank you =)

------
Claire - Australian in Seattle

sewinggeek
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sewinggeek  Friend of PR
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In reply to ClaireEmily


Date: 3/1/10 10:00 PM

On the muslin you have here, the first thing I would do is try to scoop out the rear crotch a bit. There are pulls from the high hip to towards the rear which say that there is not enough fabric there. Start by scooping out just 1/4" and see what that does.

Patti

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PattiH
Brother 4000D, Brother 650Q, Brother 1034D, Kenmore 117-841, Kenmore 158-1040, Franklin, Singers: 15-91, 66, 221

Patricia Schoeman
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Patricia Schoeman  Friend of PR
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Florida USA
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In reply to Elaine Dougan


Date: 3/5/10 10:55 AM

Hi Elaine,
Glad to see you have learned so much when you did the pants fitting class with me. Some of the advice you gave is correct. But don't you think she also need a flat back. Look at what's happening right below the derriere, if you go through your notes and photo's when I helped you with your fitting, you will see that she also need this adjustment. And this is something that can not be done in fabric. No matter what she will always have those if it's not changed in the tissue. The best would be to start with a tissue fitting like you did. She also need to do some adjustments to her inseam, and from what I can see, she needs a small swayback adjustment. The advice to add 1" to the seam allowance is great, just remember it has to be to both inseam and side seams.
You made me proud. You came a long way in understanding the fit of pants since January.

------
My passion is sewing and fitting perfect garments. But, I’m also passionate about teaching others to fit and sew perfectly fitted garments. I know how frustrating the fitting proses could be.
If you need any assistance visit my website, (http://perfectsewandfit.com/) I’ll try my utmost best to see how I can help you achieve that perfect fit.

Thanks
Patricia Schoeman
Your “Perfect Sew And Fitting Buddy”

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