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Simplicity 2939
shoulder seams are off
rethers
rethers
Beginner
CT USA
Member since 12/28/09
Posts: 22
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Date: 3/10/10 8:18 AM

The pattern says 5/8" sa unless otherwise indicated, however on the pattern pieces 1 (front x2) & 2 (back x1) it notes a 3/8" sa. So I sewed the 3 pieces together using a 3/8" sa unless it indicated otherwise in the instructions. I assumed this was correct but when I sewed the facings I used a 5/8" sa and now the shoulder seams do not match up and the facing is short in the front center - all are off by 1/2". SO I know I need to change something but I don't know if I need to let out the facing and sew it at 3/8" or let out the front and back pieces and sew them at 5/8". Why would the pattern have that printed on it if I wasn't to do that tho? I'm confused.

While I waited for all the wonderful PR feedback to set me straight I thought I would start on the skirt part and the first part is to machine baste the pleats on the front and back. My question here is do I have to machine baste at 5/8" or closer to the raw edge? Does it matter? When I thought about it, I thought that when I join the bottom to the top I would be sewing at 5/8*?* which would sew over the pleats at another length if I were to baste close to raw edge. I don't want my pleats to turn out wonky. Not sure if this question is clear enough but anyone who has sewed 3 or more patterns is by far more experienced than I and might understand.

Should I have posted this question somewhere else?

Retha
-- Edited on 3/10/10 8:19 AM --
-- Edited on 3/10/10 8:21 AM --

------
Retha

newmama
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newmama  Friend of PR
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Member since 6/28/09
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In reply to rethers


Date: 3/10/10 8:57 AM

I'm nowhere near an expert, but here's my take:
As far as where to baste - I like to baste a inside the 5/8" allowance (usually a 1/2" sa), because I don't usually remove my basting stitches, and the ensures that they are hidden when I sew my actual seams. This has worked for me so far. The only concern I've had in doing so is with gathering. Say I'm attaching a gathered skirt to a bodice. The 1/8" or so difference could mean my seams don't line up as exactly as I'd like. So, I pin baste at 5/8" to check that my seams line up, or I machine baste at 5/8" at those points and if my basting stitches end up showing I only have a small amount to remove.

As for using the seam allowances indicated on the patterns, in my experience the instructions tell you when to deviate from the standard sa. I don't rely on the pattern pieces to tell me.

But, I refer to my original disclaimer: I'm far from being an expert. HTH!

~angie
-- Edited on 3/10/10 8:58 AM --
-- Edited on 3/10/10 8:59 AM --

------
angie
http://danikate-designs.blogspot.com/

rethers
rethers
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CT USA
Member since 12/28/09
Posts: 22
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In reply to newmama


Date: 3/10/10 9:11 AM

[quote]As for using the seam allowances indicated on the patterns, in my experience the instructions tell you when to deviate from the standard sa. I don't rely on the pattern pieces to tell me.



but why would it be printed on the pattern piece? why? why? why? The basting part makes sense. Thanks!
-- Edited on 3/10/10 9:12 AM --

------
Retha

newmama
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In reply to rethers


Date: 3/10/10 9:40 AM

So I checked out some Simplicity patterns I have to explore this pattern piece SA thing. One pattern I am going to make states 3/8" hem allowed. I looked at the instructions, and the part for the hem says to use the general directions for a narrow hem. Nowhere does it state a hem allowance (*except* on the pattern piece). Although it does say 'narrow' hem, which would make me think smaller than normal.

Another Simplicity pattern, a little vest I just made, says on the pattern pieces 3/8" SA. Doesn't say for which seams, just a general statement on the pieces. Nowhere does it say in the directions to use other than the standard 5/8" SA. Hmm... I did make the vest with 5/8" seams, but that's because it looked pretty wide to me. There were no sleeves, so I can't tell what effect it had.

I don't know why they print SA's on the pattern pieces. I know that I have sewn patterns that have a SA on a pattern piece and state it again in the instructions. I have never had any problems making patterns and just using the instructions as far as SA's go. But I also haven't made a lot of garments that require specific fit. So, in conclusion, I am absolutely no help!
-- Edited on 3/10/10 9:41 AM --

------
angie
http://danikate-designs.blogspot.com/

rethers
rethers
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CT USA
Member since 12/28/09
Posts: 22
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In reply to newmama


Date: 3/10/10 9:49 AM

LOL! Yes it was a general statement on the pattern piece like your jacket. but nowhere in the instructions does it state either way what sa to use - so I followed what was printed on the pattern piece. I won't beat this to death but am looking forward to learning which piece is in fact wrong. I have a hunch it is the 3/8" sa.

Learning as I go and developing a love/hate sentiment for the seam ripper!

------
Retha

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