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Forum > Fitting Woes > Avoiding Plumber Butt ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Avoiding Plumber Butt
Can I add fabric to the back pattern piece at waist?
amysayssew
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amysayssew
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Member since 9/7/08
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Date: 3/10/10 3:11 PM

I've been searching online for a solution to this problem, but I don't know what to search for.
I read somewhere that for the most flattering fit, pants should smile in the front and frown in the back.

I've made 2 pairs of drawstring pants and both could use some more fabric at the waist in the back (I guess I'm missing my frown). Otherwise, when I sit down or bend over, the pants go down too far and I risk an embarrassing situation.

Could I add 1 1/2" inches to the waist of the back piece? If I do that, and my total allowance for the waist is 1 1/2", won't there be a gap between the front pieces and the back pieces when I sew the casing because they won't overlap at the side seams? I'm having trouble visualizing this.

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Buffalo Modern Sewing Group: http://bit.ly/buffalomodernsewing

lca
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lca  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/10/10 3:57 PM

I have this problem too. You can either draw a horizonal line on the hip line (back only), cut it from the center to the side seamline and open it so there is a "wedge" at the center back, Or, you can add the height at the center back waist and taper to nothing at the side. I prefer the first method because it seems to work better for my sway back. I hope this is clear.

woggy
woggy  Friend of PR
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In reply to amysayssew


Date: 3/10/10 4:07 PM

I am not sure where you read that pants should smile in the front and frown in the back for a most flattering fit. These descriptions are telling you that the pants don't fit correctly on your body. Not that the pants are fitting and flattering.
The object of pants fitting is to not have any wrinkles in these areas.

If your pants are pulling down in the back, your crotch design, and/or crotch depth and/or length are probably not fitting you correctly and you need more material.

The instructions in the second post contain the information you need. However, do not be disappointed if these don't work on your first try. It might take a few tries until you get the right amount added to fit your figure.

Woggy

Patricia Schoeman
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Patricia Schoeman  Friend of PR
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In reply to amysayssew


Date: 3/10/10 6:42 PM

Hi
There, you honestly don't want to have smile's in your legs, not intentional any way

when you see any smile lines under the derriere area, you need to add to the crotch area, the first thing I do, if the waist of the pant don't come to my waist is to move the back inseam towards my side seam. In doing this I create more space for my back side and there is enough fabric to keep me covered up if I need to sit down or bent forward. I'm not sure if you have a swayback. I don't know if you have watch any my fitting video's but it should show you how to take care of this issue.

When you have smiles in the front legs, you need to make space for your thighs - You could add a photo to your posting and I will try to help where I can.

When you cut your next pair of pants, always add 1" to your inseams and side seams, so if you need to move a seam you have the extra that you may need.

Good luck, and don't give up, you will be ok, the more you try the more you learn. Like they say practice make perfect

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My passion is sewing and fitting perfect garments. But, I’m also passionate about teaching others to fit and sew perfectly fitted garments. I know how frustrating the fitting proses could be.
If you need any assistance visit my website, (http://perfectsewandfit.com/) I’ll try my utmost best to see how I can help you achieve that perfect fit.

Thanks
Patricia Schoeman
Your “Perfect Sew And Fitting Buddy”

M.S.
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M.S.
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Date: 3/10/10 7:59 PM

I think the smile/frown thing probably means at the waist, the front should dip down. The back should arch up. I have never heard the terminology before, but that's my guess. I don't think it's referring to lines under your toosh. I actually like my pants higher in the back than front, for the plumber's butt reason. I think the ladies have given good advice. I just think the smile/frown thing is getting overanalyzed.

Kathi R
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Kathi R  Friend of PR
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In reply to amysayssew


Date: 3/10/10 8:31 PM

I have the same problem, a tipped waistline that dips in the front but I must have a more significant caboose than you do because I add more than you need and I have to reduce the crotch depth in the front. When the pants are just out of the washer and folded they look really weird, but they fit me.

When putting in a casing with this much curve to the top of the garment, the casing might wrinkle. If it starts fighting you just make a casing as a separate piece and sew it on - remember to cut off the fabric allowed for the casing on the pants. I have found that the separate casing lays flatter.

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2012 : starting stash 386, net additions 206, used 164, ending stash 428...I'm never going to get in front of this pile of fabric!

amysayssew
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amysayssew
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In reply to M.S.


Date: 3/10/10 9:56 PM

That is what it means - a smile and frown at the waist, so that there is enough fabric to cover the behind.

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Buffalo Modern Sewing Group: http://bit.ly/buffalomodernsewing

Sew4Fun
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In reply to amysayssew


Date: 3/10/10 10:06 PM

I like to wear my pants higher in the back and lower in the front; a tilted waist. All I do is add the required amount at the centre back waist, graduating to nothing by the side seam. It works for me and it's a simple alteration.

The only thing to watch is it can create a point at the centre back when the two back halves are sewn together. For this reason I usually draw a curved waist using a hip curve or something similar, rather than a straight line. To avoid the point, the centre back seam and waist seam should be as close to a right angle as possible for at least an inch. It helps too if you line up the front and back pattern pieces at the side seam as you alter, to ensure you get a smooth line for the waist. HTH

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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

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