Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Fitting Woes > Avoiding Plumber Butt ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Avoiding Plumber Butt
Can I add fabric to the back pattern piece at waist?
amysayssew
star
amysayssew
Beginner
NY
Member since 9/7/08
Posts: 186
Login to reply to this post

Date: 3/10/10 3:11 PM

I've been searching online for a solution to this problem, but I don't know what to search for.
I read somewhere that for the most flattering fit, pants should smile in the front and frown in the back.

I've made 2 pairs of drawstring pants and both could use some more fabric at the waist in the back (I guess I'm missing my frown). Otherwise, when I sit down or bend over, the pants go down too far and I risk an embarrassing situation.

Could I add 1 1/2" inches to the waist of the back piece? If I do that, and my total allowance for the waist is 1 1/2", won't there be a gap between the front pieces and the back pieces when I sew the casing because they won't overlap at the side seams? I'm having trouble visualizing this.

------
Buffalo Modern Sewing Group: http://bit.ly/buffalomodernsewing

lca
star
lca  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CO USA
Member since 6/4/07
Posts: 581
Login to reply to this post

Date: 3/10/10 3:57 PM

I have this problem too. You can either draw a horizonal line on the hip line (back only), cut it from the center to the side seamline and open it so there is a "wedge" at the center back, Or, you can add the height at the center back waist and taper to nothing at the side. I prefer the first method because it seems to work better for my sway back. I hope this is clear.

woggy
woggy  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
PA USA
Member since 8/15/04
Posts: 686
Login to reply to this post

In reply to amysayssew


Date: 3/10/10 4:07 PM

I am not sure where you read that pants should smile in the front and frown in the back for a most flattering fit. These descriptions are telling you that the pants don't fit correctly on your body. Not that the pants are fitting and flattering.
The object of pants fitting is to not have any wrinkles in these areas.

If your pants are pulling down in the back, your crotch design, and/or crotch depth and/or length are probably not fitting you correctly and you need more material.

The instructions in the second post contain the information you need. However, do not be disappointed if these don't work on your first try. It might take a few tries until you get the right amount added to fit your figure.

Woggy

Patricia Schoeman
star
Patricia Schoeman  Friend of PR
Intermediate
FL USA
Member since 1/16/05
Posts: 71
Login to reply to this post

In reply to amysayssew


Date: 3/10/10 6:42 PM

Hi
There, you honestly don't want to have smile's in your legs, not intentional any way

when you see any smile lines under the derriere area, you need to add to the crotch area, the first thing I do, if the waist of the pant don't come to my waist is to move the back inseam towards my side seam. In doing this I create more space for my back side and there is enough fabric to keep me covered up if I need to sit down or bent forward. I'm not sure if you have a swayback. I don't know if you have watch any my fitting video's but it should show you how to take care of this issue.

When you have smiles in the front legs, you need to make space for your thighs - You could add a photo to your posting and I will try to help where I can.

When you cut your next pair of pants, always add 1" to your inseams and side seams, so if you need to move a seam you have the extra that you may need.

Good luck, and don't give up, you will be ok, the more you try the more you learn. Like they say practice make perfect

------
My passion is sewing and fitting perfect garments. But, I’m also passionate about teaching others to fit and sew perfectly fitted garments. I know how frustrating the fitting proses could be.
If you need any assistance visit my website, (http://perfectsewandfit.com/) I’ll try my utmost best to see how I can help you achieve that perfect fit.

Thanks
Patricia Schoeman
Your “Perfect Sew And Fitting Buddy”

M.S.
star
M.S.
Intermediate
Member since 3/6/09
Posts: 1229
Login to reply to this post

Date: 3/10/10 7:59 PM

I think the smile/frown thing probably means at the waist, the front should dip down. The back should arch up. I have never heard the terminology before, but that's my guess. I don't think it's referring to lines under your toosh. I actually like my pants higher in the back than front, for the plumber's butt reason. I think the ladies have given good advice. I just think the smile/frown thing is getting overanalyzed.

Kathi R
star
Kathi R  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 2/28/05
Posts: 2096
PR Weekend Volunteer

Going to PR Weekend Austin!
Login to reply to this post

In reply to amysayssew


Date: 3/10/10 8:31 PM

I have the same problem, a tipped waistline that dips in the front but I must have a more significant caboose than you do because I add more than you need and I have to reduce the crotch depth in the front. When the pants are just out of the washer and folded they look really weird, but they fit me.

When putting in a casing with this much curve to the top of the garment, the casing might wrinkle. If it starts fighting you just make a casing as a separate piece and sew it on - remember to cut off the fabric allowed for the casing on the pants. I have found that the separate casing lays flatter.

------
2012 : starting stash 386, net additions 206, used 164, ending stash 428...I'm never going to get in front of this pile of fabric!

amysayssew
star
amysayssew
Beginner
NY
Member since 9/7/08
Posts: 186
Login to reply to this post

In reply to M.S.


Date: 3/10/10 9:56 PM

That is what it means - a smile and frown at the waist, so that there is enough fabric to cover the behind.

------
Buffalo Modern Sewing Group: http://bit.ly/buffalomodernsewing

Sew4Fun
starstarstarstar
Sew4Fun
Advanced
AUSTRALIA
Member since 6/23/04
Posts: 4869
Login to reply to this post

In reply to amysayssew


Date: 3/10/10 10:06 PM

I like to wear my pants higher in the back and lower in the front; a tilted waist. All I do is add the required amount at the centre back waist, graduating to nothing by the side seam. It works for me and it's a simple alteration.

The only thing to watch is it can create a point at the centre back when the two back halves are sewn together. For this reason I usually draw a curved waist using a hip curve or something similar, rather than a straight line. To avoid the point, the centre back seam and waist seam should be as close to a right angle as possible for at least an inch. It helps too if you line up the front and back pattern pieces at the side seam as you alter, to ensure you get a smooth line for the waist. HTH

------
Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> Avoiding Plumber Butt

Merchants on PR
SewBaby
Unique Sewing Patterns
Deals!
Budo Bear Designs
Asian Designs
Web site
Patterns from the Past
vintage sewing patterns
Deals!
Elliott Berman Textiles
Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Deals!
Gwyn Hug
Fabric Shopping Help!
Deals!

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Leather 101
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Leather 101

Online Sewing Classes
Beginners Guide to Sewing Jackets
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Beginners Guide to Sewing Jackets

BurdaStyle Downloadable 6019 Sadie knit top
photo
Review by squirrelly... on 6/30/08
Read Review

Oliver + S Badminton Skort, Top + Dress Digital Pattern (6m-4)
Oliver + S Badminton Skort, Top + Dress Digital Pattern (6m-4)

Details
Price: $15.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Peek-A Boo Bathing Beauty Swim Cap Digital Pattern ( Size infant- toddler- child )
Peek-A Boo Bathing Beauty Swim Cap Digital Pattern ( Size infant- toddler- child )

Details
Price: $4.99
Add to Bag Add to Bag

McCall's 8108 One Hour Dress
photo
Review by novicesewi... on 2/24/10
Read Review

Favorite Things A Safe Place Pattern
Favorite Things A Safe Place Pattern

Details
Price: $14.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Sewing Workshop Soho Coat Pattern
Sewing Workshop Soho Coat Pattern

Details
Price: $22.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

New Look 6347 Pattern
New Look 6347 Pattern

Details
Price: $4.49
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Vogue 8536 Pattern ( Size 14-16-18-20-22 )
Vogue 8536 Pattern ( Size 14-16-18-20-22 )

Details
Price: $22.50
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN