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High Bust Measurement picking pattern size by High Bust Measurement
ghijsmom   Advanced Beginner PANAMA Member since 12/5/08 Posts: 58	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 3/13/10 2:01 PM This is probably a stupid question, and I know I used to understand it, but now, I don't. When we say to choose a pattern by the high bust measurement, what exactly does that mean? Does it mean - pretend your high bust measurement is the same as the full bust measurement? Say my high bust is 38.25 inches. Does that mean I would buy a pattern that is a size 16 because the size 16 has a full bust measurement of 38 inches? Thanks in advance for your help.
Melanie74 Advanced Beginner CA USA Member since 2/18/08 Posts: 50	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 3/13/10 3:18 PM Yes, that is right. But this generally only applies if you have a larger-than-B-cup bust. So if your high bust m'ment is 38.25 inches, and your full bust m'ment is 41 inches, then yes, you would buy according to high bust and make an adjustment. If however, your high is 38.25 and your full is 40, then you could go ahead and buy according to your full bust, since it is not more than 2 inches larger than your high bust. The idea being that even if you have a larger than 'average' full bust, your high bust measurement more accurately represent the size of your frame. This method helps ensure that the shoulders, from where the garment hangs, will be best fitted. I think many people find it easier to alter to enlarge from the bustline down an a pattern rather than to try to adjust the shoulders and neckline smaller. Before I stumbled onto PR I hadn't heard of a full bust adjustment, and couldn't figure out why I was swimming around in everything I tried to make : ) I know I have read on these boards, somewhere, about small bust adjustment as well, though that isn't one I'm familiar with. I hope someone with more expertise than I decides to chime in if I've left anything out! Happy sewing, Melanie
ghijsmom   Advanced Beginner PANAMA Member since 12/5/08 Posts: 58	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 3/13/10 11:58 PM Thanks Melanie. My full bust measurement is 41.5, so I guess that means I should buy the 16. Good thing my unused dress patterns are (16-18-20-22) and (14-16-18). I took a fitting course many years ago, but never really understood it, although I did come away with patterns for a shirt and skirt that fit me very well at the time. If my size hadn't changed, I'd be set. Last year I registered for the fitting class on pattern review, but unfortunately, I got so busy with family issues, I couldn't continue, so didn't really learn anything.
3KillerBs Advanced NC USA Member since 7/1/08 Posts: 699	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 3/19/10 8:54 PM Thanks, this was just exactly what I needed to look up right now as I decide which set of lines to trace on my Simplicity 2615. ------ 3KB "The combination of physical strength and moral sincerity combined with tenderness of heart is exactly what is wanted in a husband." Amelia Peabody Emerson
AdaH   Intermediate IA USA Member since 11/21/09 Posts: 2136	Login to reply to this post In reply to Melanie74 Like this post Date: 3/20/10 1:16 AM Melanie, you did that explaination really well. ------ Ada
Melanie74 Advanced Beginner CA USA Member since 2/18/08 Posts: 50	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 3/20/10 2:46 AM AdaH Thank You! I feel like I'm just beginning to "get it" myself, and was worried it wasn't clear. That means a lot to me! : )
tailormaid   Advanced IL USA Member since 8/19/04 Posts: 204	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 4/8/10 6:08 PM My high bust is 35 1/2" and and full bust is 38". Should I use a size 12 or 14? (Size 14 starts at 36", size 12 starts at 34"). Thanks! Tailormaid
KathySews   Advanced Beginner MI USA Member since 10/1/06 Posts: 2896	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 4/8/10 6:40 PM If you do not already own the book 'Fit For Real People' I recommend you run out to buy it. Many people on PR use this book and swear by it. It is the best $20 you will spend for help with fit.
KathySews   Advanced Beginner MI USA Member since 10/1/06 Posts: 2896	Login to reply to this post In reply to tailormaid Like this post Date: 4/8/10 6:47 PM The point of an FBA is to get good fit through your shoulders because your shoulders are kind of fixed. I would select the 14, but if you have narrow shoulders you might consider the 12. There are no absolutes in fit. Bottom line...while trying to figure this out, I suggest you make a muslin.
papago   Advanced Beginner MN USA Member since 1/15/07 Posts: 49	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 4/8/10 6:47 PM Tailormade, use the 12. It will have the correct ease for upper bust up to 36. Fit for Real People will really help you with this and does recommend going with the smaller size if you are in between sizes. Laura

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