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High Bust Measurement
picking pattern size by High Bust Measurement
ghijsmom

ghijsmom  Friend of PR
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PANAMA
Member since 12/5/08
Posts: 114
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Date: 3/13/10 2:01 PM

This is probably a stupid question, and I know I used to understand it, but now, I don't. When we say to choose a pattern by the high bust measurement, what exactly does that mean?
Does it mean - pretend your high bust measurement is the same as the full bust measurement?
Say my high bust is 38.25 inches. Does that mean I would buy a pattern that is a size 16 because the size 16 has a full bust measurement of 38 inches?
Thanks in advance for your help.

Melanie74

Melanie74
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California USA
Member since 2/18/08
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Date: 3/13/10 3:18 PM

Yes, that is right. But this generally only applies if you have a larger-than-B-cup bust.
So if your high bust m'ment is 38.25 inches, and your full bust m'ment is 41 inches, then yes, you would buy according to high bust and make an adjustment. If however, your high is 38.25 and your full is 40, then you could go ahead and buy according to your full bust, since it is not more than 2 inches larger than your high bust.
The idea being that even if you have a larger than 'average' full bust, your high bust measurement more accurately represent the size of your frame. This method helps ensure that the shoulders, from where the garment hangs, will be best fitted. I think many people find it easier to alter to enlarge from the bustline down an a pattern rather than to try to adjust the shoulders and neckline smaller.
Before I stumbled onto PR I hadn't heard of a full bust adjustment, and couldn't figure out why I was swimming around in everything I tried to make : ) I know I have read on these boards, somewhere, about small bust adjustment as well, though that isn't one I'm familiar with. I hope someone with more expertise than I decides to chime in if I've left anything out!
Happy sewing, Melanie

ghijsmom

ghijsmom  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/13/10 11:58 PM

Thanks Melanie. My full bust measurement is 41.5, so I guess that means I should buy the 16. Good thing my unused dress patterns are (16-18-20-22) and (14-16-18).
I took a fitting course many years ago, but never really understood it, although I did come away with patterns for a shirt and skirt that fit me very well at the time. If my size hadn't changed, I'd be set.
Last year I registered for the fitting class on pattern review, but unfortunately, I got so busy with family issues, I couldn't continue, so didn't really learn anything.

3KillerBs
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3KillerBs
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Date: 3/19/10 8:54 PM

Thanks, this was just exactly what I needed to look up right now as I decide which set of lines to trace on my Simplicity 2615.

------
3KB

"The combination of physical strength and moral sincerity combined with tenderness of heart is exactly what is wanted in a husband." Amelia Peabody Emerson

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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In reply to Melanie74


Date: 3/20/10 1:16 AM

Melanie, you did that explaination really well.

------
Ada

Melanie74

Melanie74
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California USA
Member since 2/18/08
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Date: 3/20/10 2:46 AM

AdaH

Thank You! I feel like I'm just beginning to "get it" myself, and was worried it wasn't clear. That means a lot to me! : )

tailormaid

tailormaid
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Illinois USA
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Date: 4/8/10 6:08 PM

My high bust is 35 1/2" and and full bust is 38". Should I use a size 12 or 14? (Size 14 starts at 36", size 12 starts at 34"). Thanks! Tailormaid

KathySews
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Date: 4/8/10 6:40 PM

If you do not already own the book 'Fit For Real People' I recommend you run out to buy it. Many people on PR use this book and swear by it. It is the best $20 you will spend for help with fit.

KathySews
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In reply to tailormaid


Date: 4/8/10 6:47 PM

The point of an FBA is to get good fit through your shoulders because your shoulders are kind of fixed. I would select the 14, but if you have narrow shoulders you might consider the 12. There are no absolutes in fit.
Bottom line...while trying to figure this out, I suggest you make a muslin.

papago
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Date: 4/8/10 6:47 PM

Tailormade, use the 12. It will have the correct ease for upper bust up to 36. Fit for Real People will really help you with this and does recommend going with the smaller size if you are in between sizes. Laura

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