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Forum > Fitting Woes > How to make waistband bigger but keep hip same?? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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How to make waistband bigger but keep hip same??
SewSho
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SewSho
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Date: 3/20/10 4:21 AM

I'm not sure this would even be possible but just incase, is there any way that in making a pieced waistband I can enlarge it slightly but still keep the original m'ments of the top of the pants?
I have a bit of a thick waist, it doesn't really curve in! I get a great fit through the hips and as soon as the waistbands on it's a squeeze Is there any technique for fitting a larger waistband??
TIA
Shola
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KarenTeel

KarenTeel
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Date: 3/20/10 6:18 AM

I am interested in this too! I am getting ready to sew Jalie Jeans and am in the same dilemma. I am a rectangle and the waist and hips are the same measurement. In RTW everything will fit but the waist is 1-2 inches too small.

I hope someone will help us here. Thank you for bringing this up.

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Karen

Peggy L
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Peggy L  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/20/10 6:34 AM

There are a lot of us with this problem!!! Typical for a rectangle. Some ideas for you to try:

1. If the pants have darts, eliminate one of them or sew them half the size. You'll add the same extra amount to the waistband.
or
2. Figure out how much extra you need; divide by four and add it to each of the side seams. Say you need one inch extra. Make a dot l/4 from the seam line at the top of each side seam. Draw a line from there down to the hip area blending it in. You'll add the same amount to the waistband.

If this isn't clear, let me know.

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www.thereisjoyadventures.blogspot.com

Peggy L
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In reply to SewSho


Date: 3/20/10 6:35 AM

In your case, you might try taking slightly smaller seams in the waistband but remember you need some wearing ease.

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KarenTeel

KarenTeel
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In reply to Peggy L


Date: 3/20/10 6:44 AM

Thank you Peggy. Will this still work if I need to add a little more - say 1 1/2 inches? I would think somewhere this will start getting wonky the more you add to the waist area.

You are right, everything seems fine within 2-3 inches below waist level, so dividing between seams and blending down should work well. Just concerned if I need to add a lot.

Thanks for your help. Don't know why it didn't click for me before.

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Karen

SewSho
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In reply to Peggy L


Date: 3/20/10 7:12 AM

Quote: Peggy L
There are a lot of us with this problem!!! Typical for a rectangle. Some ideas for you to try:



1. If the pants have darts, eliminate one of them or sew them half the size. You'll add the same extra amount to the waistband.

or

2. Figure out how much extra you need; divide by four and add it to each of the side seams. Say you need one inch extra. Make a dot l/4 from the seam line at the top of each side seam. Draw a line from there down to the hip area blending it in. You'll add the same amount to the waistband.



If this isn't clear, let me know.

Yes very clear Thankyou I do only need about an inch 1/2 so I could do that with the seam allowances, just a case of the math !
Well nice to know I have a recognised shape! I never knew I was a 'rectangle' I feel part of the clan now
Peggy L
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In reply to KarenTeel


Date: 3/20/10 8:07 AM

Yes!!! That is more what I need to add:) Actually, if there are darts I'll usually sew them smaller (or take one out) as well as add to the waist at the side seams. Face it, we don't need the darts so much for shaping since we don't have "shape" in that area. I never add to the center front or back - the center is the center - just to the sides. After you alter your pattern piece, it will be straighter from the hip area to the waist - because we are straighter there:)

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www.thereisjoyadventures.blogspot.com

KarenTeel

KarenTeel
Illinois USA
Member since 4/22/08
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In reply to Peggy L


Date: 3/20/10 8:48 AM

You are the best! Thank you

Off to sewing lessons now, have them all day. Will learn how to do a quilted runner on the serger and how to turn a sweatshirt into a zip-up. Wish me luck!

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Karen

petro
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Date: 3/20/10 9:05 AM

When I read 'pieced waistband', I visualised a shaped waistband, either cut as a whole piece, front and back, or as sometimes happens, front, front side, back. If its a curved waistband and fits at the bottom edge where it joins the pants body but is too tight at the top where it hits the true waist, you can slash the pattern down from the top edge to the bottom, leaving a small hinge, and open up the slashes until you have enough ease for comfort. This will give a straighter, less curved band which still measures the same where it joins to the pants. The advantage of this way is that you can put the fabric where you need it - if its mostly in front for tum then a wider spread between the slashes there.

kwpanthermom
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Date: 3/20/10 9:17 AM

Oh, boy, I'm dealing with this fit issue right now. I find that my extra inches (yikes) at the waist is only in the front of me. I keep the back pattern piece the same size and add only to the front of the pattern, where the extra amount is really needed. This keeps the side seams straight and perpendicular to the floor. You can reduce the size of the front dart, or remove the dart (or one of two of them, or even both) altogether. You can add to the side seam from about halfway between the hip and the waist as the start point up to the waist. In a pieced waistband, you can add the extra either to the entire side of the waistband piece or, as another poster has advised, only at the top edge of the piece, if that is where the extra is needed.

So, yes, extra allowance can be added only to the waist area wherever it is needed, either all around the waist (and increasing the size of the waist area front and back) or in either the front or the back.
-- Edited on 3/20/10 9:19 AM --

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kwpanthermom

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