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Help with a Shawl collar?
I'm not even really sure it is a shawl collar...
shannie
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shannie
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Date: 4/21/10 9:52 PM

I posted in the vintage contest discussion here, but I thought I might ask for help here too.
I'm working on this Lutterloh pattern:

This is the pattern:

The pattern is in German, but for Lutterloh, it doesn't matter. The piece that is labeled kragen is the collar.
I just can't figure out how it attaches to the bodice.
Any suggestions?

triangles

triangles  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/21/10 10:02 PM

it looks like the right side is on a fold, and the left side has E and F in the corners, which should match the E and F on the pattern piece to the right of it

EleanorSews
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Date: 4/21/10 10:47 PM

Ok, the Kragen is the collar. I am thinking that there is a seam from 26 to 23, or it might be laid on the fold.

It looks like the Kragen is pleated at what would be the waist.

1. sew the seam or cut the Kragen on the fold at 23 to 26, the narrow end.
2. It looks like the front and back bodice are also cut on the fold with a zipper (schluss) on the left side seam. Construct the bodice.
3. Where Kragen is marked 75.5, a dot in the middle at the apex of the outside angle, begin to attach that to the front bodice as if it were a facing. You a=can attach the Kragen from one side of the front neck all the way around the the other side.
4. You can see that the Kragen or collar seems to crisscross in the front which explains that the portion of the Kragen that is not attached as a facing is free to be crossed over.

NOTE: When you do the facing attachment, you want the facing to turn onto the right side of the bodice so you will have the right side of the collar facing the wrong side of the bodice. That way, when you have sewn it and turn the facing, you will be turning the right side of the collar out onto the right side of the bodice. Does this make any sense. [Gee, I can see it, I hope you can too. Or ask, and I'll see if I can word it better.]

Not sure how you finish the outer edge of the Kragen but I suspect that you would crisscross that lower front portion of the colalr before you attach teh bodice to the skirt.

HTH

I'll come back later to see if you think this might be useful or what else we could figure out...

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"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin

"Attitude is the difference between an adventure and an ordeal." unknown

shannie
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shannie
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California USA
Member since 7/26/06
Posts: 19
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Date: 4/21/10 11:07 PM

Thanks! What you both said is exactly what I thought. I figured that the collar would attach at the neckline from the center back down to the center front. However, the kragen was only long enough to attach from the should seam to the center front. I had to add two inches to the center back of the kragen for it to reach to the center back of the bodice. Which means I actually added 4 inches to the overall length of the kragen!
Then I looked at the sketch again and there appears to be gathers or tucks in the kragen at the front shoulder seam. And the back view doesn't show any collar at all.
I'm not sure if the artist doing the sketch took some liberties or if all the design details are not included in the pattern.

Eleanorsews:
As far as finishing the edges of the kragen, I had planned to cut two on the fold and sew them as an upper and under collar, leaving the neckline edge, and the lower edges (where it attaches at the waist) open.

shannie
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shannie
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California USA
Member since 7/26/06
Posts: 19
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Date: 4/21/10 11:26 PM

While I was writing my last post I got an email answering my question from Ann in Calif. from Come Sew Lutterloh With Me.

She said that after looking at the line drawing in compared to the pattern pieces, she wouldn't be surprised if the collar was marked incorrectly. She suggested attaching the collar at the shoulder seams. She said that since Lutterloh patterns don't come with instructions and the collar isn't working the way it was drafted, it shouldn't really be considered a design change to make the collar work in an alternative method.

I like the idea and I'm going to try attaching the collar from the shoulder seams to the center front, so that there is no collar at the back. Then, I'll make a full neckline facing.

Thanks for all your help!
-- Edited on 4/21/10 11:28 PM --

EleanorSews
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In reply to shannie


Date: 4/21/10 11:49 PM

Oh yes, that makes perfect sense ... now!

------
"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin

"Attitude is the difference between an adventure and an ordeal." unknown

Dzynurbrian

Dzynurbrian
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Date: 4/24/10 4:00 PM

Yes, based on the back view of the dress, it appears to me that this collar detail is sewn into the shoulder seam, and laid across the front bodice as though it's a facing turned to the outside.

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~Dzynurbrian~

http://web.me.com/dzynurbrian/Dzynurbrian/Welcome.html

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