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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Gaping at side of bodice ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Gaping at side of bodice
what alteration should I make?
idahodogs
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idahodogs
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Date: 5/3/10 4:55 PM

I have attempted several sleeveless sundresses now, and always have the same problem: The top of the dress gaps away at the side, just in front of my arm. Since its a consistent problem, I'm guessing there's some standard adjustment I need to be making... I just don't know what it is!

I have FFRP, but since they don't include any sleeveless dresses, I'm not having much luck there. Any ideas?

idahodogs
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Date: 5/3/10 9:14 PM

double post
-- Edited on 5/4/10 11:10 AM --

alysonvic
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In reply to idahodogs


Date: 5/3/10 10:03 PM

I'm just a beginner too, but I think if you angle the front shoulder down more, just on the front piece, then sew it together it might "lift" that area up so it doesn't gap.

Sometimes I have that problem when the shoulders are too wide as well, but that needs to be adjusted before you cut it out.
-- Edited on 5/3/10 10:03 PM --

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JEF
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Subject: Topic moved Date: 5/3/10 10:37 PM

This topic has been moved from Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting to Fitting Woes

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JEF
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Subject: Topic merged Date: 5/3/10 10:42 PM

Topic merged from What does it mean? into Gaping at side of bodice

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RoseFromThule
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RoseFromThule
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Date: 5/4/10 4:28 AM

Can't help you, but I have the same problem, and with many RTW tops and dress as well, so I'll anxiously wait for answers :)

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3HoursPast
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Date: 5/4/10 7:58 AM

Without seeing a picture, it's hard to tell what you're talking about. It could simply be the armscythe is cut too deeply.

However, it is more likely the gappage is caused by an armscythe not shaped for your body. One of the things a FBA does is change the shape of the armscythe. It becomes more curved, eliminating that gap. Try doing a small fba, say 3/8", and see what happens. If it makes the gap go away or lessens the gap, you know you're on the right track.

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In reply to idahodogs


Date: 5/4/10 8:16 AM

I have this problem too--- "what am I?? a B or a C??" I have a quick and easy remedy, that some might find unusual, but I used to have gaposis not only at my armhole but in my neckline too (I have what is known as a "hollow" chest, but I'm not flat chested" and I'm in between a cup size to do an FBA) You probably have shoulders that roll forward, making a "valley" between your shoulder ridge and the upper part of your bustline. You can do one of two things (although I'm sure you will get a wide variety of responses), but this is what I do, and it depends on what my mood is as to which I choose:

Being as you're working with a sleeveless dress, pinch the excess amount into a dart, measure the depth of the dart, then:

a) Divide this number by four or eight and make four or eight very small darts/tucks along the armhole which add up to the total amount of the dart. Make sure the tucks/darts aren't any longer than an inch or so. Then tape them shut on your pattern and cut. (my way based on the Anna Zapp method) If you measure the armhole size before you make the tucks, then again after, the difference should be the amount of the dart. If you make the tucks small enough and short enough, the pattern should lie flat.

b) Rotate the dart to another part of the dress, such as the hem, neck (to drop it lower, as in a scoop), to an existing dart, or anywhere else. (Shannon's way) To rotate a dart to the hem, (which is my suggestion), you mark your bustpoint on the pattern. Then draw a line from the armhole to bustpoint, and draw another line from the bustpoint straight to the hem. Then slash on the lines, but leave a little hinge at the bustpoint area. Overlap the armhole by the amount of the gap, which will then open the hem area. The hem shouldn't be too much wider, as the dart is being "lost" in the area that covers the body.

I'm sure the knowledge base here on PR has some great illustrations if you get stuck--it's a great tool.

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idahodogs
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Date: 5/4/10 11:14 AM

Sorry, I should have been more clear in my original post - not only are these sundresses sleeveless, they have spaghetti straps. They are built as if they were strapless, going more-or-less straight across and then having the straps added on. So there isn't really an armscye to adjust.
-- Edited on 5/4/10 11:16 AM --

skae
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In reply to idahodogs


Date: 5/4/10 1:13 PM

adjust your sides. you may need to pinch in a little to take that excess away. Start at the top. Strapless tops should always snug. Try it.
-- Edited on 5/4/10 1:15 PM --

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