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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Shoulder tucks/pleats for full bust ease?

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Shoulder tucks/pleats for full bust ease?
Will this work?
Tessa
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Tessa
Intermediate
MB CANADA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 947
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Date: 11/12/04 2:22 PM

My cousin has requested a shirt like the ones I've been making her husband. These are ordinary men's shirts with a yoke. However, she has a fairly full bust (I'm guessing D), and I want to add some bust ease. I thought I could do this by widening the front, and making three or four small tucks or peats to fit the front to the yoke at the shoulder. Does this make sense? I've never done much for a full bust as it's not something I need, but it seems to me this would add ease without changing the look of the "shirt with yoke and breast pockets" too much. I'm really hesitant to put in a dart as I don't have her here, and I wouldn't get it at the right place.

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Tessa

Diana M
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Diana M
Intermediate
WA USA
Member since 4/19/04
Posts: 927
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Date: 11/12/04 2:41 PM

I think your thinking is right on target. As a matter of fact, the Palmer and Pletsch unisex shirt pattern gives the directions for doing exactly that.

It takes you through making and adding a dart and then rotating it to pleats or gathers at the shoulder yoke seam. The diagrams are excellent. It's a more complicated (but probably more *accurate*) method of getting the result you describe.

Here's my review of my first attempt at this alteration:
McCalls Shirt

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Mary Stiefer
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Mary Stiefer  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CO USA
Member since 2/17/03
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Date: 11/12/04 4:31 PM

I made two blouses with pleats in the front.   I didn't have to do a fba because of it.   However, the pattern I used had dropped forward shoulders and, therefore, the pleats started a couple of inches from the real shoulder towards the front of the blouse.

Review of pattern with pictures

You are certainly on the right track.   The easiest thing to do is try a muslin and use the pleats in the shoulders.  Then, sew the pleats down for an inch or two and see what you think.   If sewing them down looks a bit strange you might try a bit of trim or a decorative stitch in the area to dress it up a bit.

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"I don't iron. If I'm not wrinkle-free why should my clothes be."

Tessa
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Tessa
Intermediate
MB CANADA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 947
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Date: 11/12/04 5:03 PM

Thanks Diana and Mary. Your reviews are helpful. Since I'm going to make a shirt with a yoke, the shoulder seam will be forward of the real shoulder, as on Mary's shirt.

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Tessa

Lorna C. Newman
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Lorna C. Newman
Intermediate
ON CANADA
Member since 8/10/02
Posts: 2463
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Date: 11/16/04 10:49 PM

Tessa, the other thing you can do is to do the FBA but don't sew the dart.  I am beginnign to do this more often now.  I add enough for the F size twins and then close the dart and retrace the s.s to the original location.  Extra ease and no darts.  Works great in knits and lighter weight fabrics.

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Like Miss Frizzle says "Take chances, make mistakes ..." isn't that what fitting is all about? I am happily taking chances and making mistakes as I fit muslin after muslin ...
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Sherril Miller
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Sherril Miller  Friend of PR
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CA USA
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Date: 11/16/04 11:42 PM

Keep in mind that if you just cut and spread for the pleats you will get the width the full bust needs, but you won't get the length. When you add a dart, you also get more length in the front where it is needed to go over the hills. The top will probably ride shorter in the front because of this. Adding a dart and rotating it to the shoulder will give you this added length as well as width. By rotating the dart and changing it to pleats you don't have to worry about where the bust apex is as there won't be any dart pointing at highest point. This will nicely solve your problems.

Sherril

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Tessa
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Tessa
Intermediate
MB CANADA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 947
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Date: 11/17/04 9:37 AM

Thanks, Sherril. The length issue had occurred to me after I asked this. I think I will have to take a careful look at my copy of FFRP to see how to do the FBA, and then rotate it to the shoulder.

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Tessa

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