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Message Board > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Jacket facing issues. ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Jacket facing issues.
Facing turns out when jacket is worn.
carolw
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carolw
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 4/9/02
Posts: 40
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Date: 5/29/10 9:08 PM

Hi all,
Was just after a little help. I have made the short version of the cardigan jacket in McCalls 3931. It is a really sweet and easy little jacket that I would like to have as a TNT.
I paper fitted the pattern and then made a fabric muslin and all seemed good. I made the jacket up in my fabric and lined it and during the first hour of wearing it looked great. But as the day went on the front facing kept trying to turn out and make itself known to the whole world.
I have understitched the front facing and now would love some advice on what else to do, as I said I would love to make a couple more of these jackets, I find them to be versatile and great for covering up when moving from a warm room to a cold corridor.
Thanks Carol.

nancy2001
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nancy2001  Friend of PR
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AL USA
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In reply to carolw


Date: 5/29/10 9:24 PM

It's hard to tell what the problem might be without a photo. Also did you use interfacing, and if so where did you put the interfacing? What kind of fabric did you use?

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No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

ryansmumAria
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ryansmumAria
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CA USA
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In reply to carolw


Date: 5/30/10 9:50 AM

Sounds like the fabric is stretching (I've never seen or heard of this happening so it's my best guess).

You may need to go back in there and re do the lining so it's smaller by taking in the side seam and armhole seam a bit.

Sorry this happened to you as you took the time to do all the right things.

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PittyPat
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PittyPat
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Date: 5/30/10 1:40 PM

Is your jacket fully lined? If the lining is not anchored to the armscye it may slip around and cause the front facing to peek out. My solution is try anchoring the lining in place by tacking it at the shoulder and underarm seams. If the lining is really silky - it may still slip around and need to the anchored all the way around the armscye. If this turns out to the problem, you can either anchor in place from the inside which would leave your anchoring stitches visible; or open up a seam in the lining so that you can get to the armscye and sitch it in place. On future jackets, I would stitch the lining up against the armscye to anchor it - then handwhip the lining sleeve in place. It is more work, but will give you a jacket where the lining stays in place.

Tom P
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Tom P  Friend of PR
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In reply to carolw


Date: 5/30/10 6:39 PM

It sounds like you just need to tack down the free (inner) edge of the facing. Even with a lined jacket, this is a good idea. With something like a RTW denim jacket, the inner edge of the facing is stitched to the front through all layers with topstitching that shows on the outside.

If you don't want the stitching to show, then you will need to catchstitch the inner edge to the front. Any stitches through the jacket front that aren't hidden by a pocket need to only catch one or two threads, so they won't show. Don't pull them up too tight. If the jacket is unlined, try not to let too much thread show on the inside, either. You may want to do a running stitch that takes a 1/4in or so stitch in the edge of the facing (I assume it has a binding or a rolled hem; if not, bind it), then a tiny stitch in the jacket front. Tack down well under the pockets or to the seam allowances or darts, if there are any.

carolw
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carolw
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AUSTRALIA
Member since 4/9/02
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Date: 5/31/10 7:43 AM

Thanks for the tips.
I have already stitched the lining to the body, ditch stitched about 3 cm on either side of the underarm seam.
When I compare the lining with the side of the jacket it appears to be the same size and doesn't pull away.
The facing fabric was block fused to the interfacing before I cut it out, it may have stretched but I think the grain of the facing and interfacing may have prevented this.
The jacket is fully lined, the lining was bagged using the Sandra Betzina technique from my Power Sewing book.
I might try the catch stitching idea to secure the facing to the main body of the jacket on the next jacket that I make. For this one I might put an external trim (braid or ribbon) onto it to hold the facing in place.

Doris W. in TN
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Doris W. in TN  Friend of PR
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TN USA
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Date: 5/31/10 10:44 AM

FWIW, Judy Barlup's Japanese Tailoring videos show her technique of cutting the facings 3/8" smaller than the outer part. Having it slightly smaller ensures things will lay flat, and curve in if it's going to curve at all.

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