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Forum > Fitting Woes > spiralling sleeves ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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spiralling sleeves
How do you get rid of the wrinkles?
Elaine Dougan
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Elaine Dougan  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/2/10 9:09 AM

I am sure that this topic has been addressed before, but I need advice as I cannot remember what help was given. What is the problem with sleeves that spiral down the arm? The fabric in this garment turned out to be too crisp. I have narrowed the shoulders and increased the bicep measurement. I also added some length to the back yoke; but it was not enough. I still have back wrinkles along the back armhole. I had to decrease the height of the sleeve cap because the sleeve would not ease into the armhole. I trimmed off one size along the edge of the sleeve cap. Is the problem caused by lack of sleeve height, fabric too stiff, shoulders too narrow, shoulder point needs to be moved, armhole needs to be reshaped, or anything else? This is a common problem for me so perhaps it is my body that is causing the spiralling sleeve. I have narrow, sloping, forward shoulders and a rounded back.
spiralling sleeve
The spiralling is improved a bit if I raise my arms.
raised arms
-- Edited on 6/2/10 9:14 AM --

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Elaine

sewsally
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sewsally  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/2/10 11:32 AM

I don't see the spiraling.

Elaine Dougan
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Elaine Dougan  Friend of PR
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In reply to sewsally


Date: 6/2/10 11:46 AM

[QUOTEI don't see the spiraling.[/QUOTE]
Perhaps it is not spiralling. It is a big crease.
crease

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Elaine

WilsonZooKeeper

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Date: 6/2/10 11:51 AM

Elaine, I get very similar on nearly every blouse, whether I make it or buy it, although mine doesn't seem to show up until I've worn the top for a while. I'm thinking it has something to do with the forward shoulders. I haven't had much time for fitting experiments so I haven't tested anything, but I'm wondering about rotating the sleeve toward the front. I keep thinking I need to ask for help, but I haven't remembered to take a picture.

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Julie
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My machines: Pfaff 6120, 130 & 296 sewing machines, Pfaff 4752 Serger, Janome 1000CP Coverstitch

That's not a stash. I'm just waiting for my inmature clothing to grow up.

ALY
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Date: 6/2/10 12:05 PM

To me it looks like your shoulders are not as wide as the pattern and/or they slope more that the pattern, causing the extra fabric to hanging off the end of your shoulder in the sleeve. I see another crease from your shoulder point to your bust area which seems to be extra fabric also. To test the slope issue try putting in shoulder pads and see if the creases disappear. Or pin a deeper slope in the shoulder seam. You can also measure your shoulder width and compare it to the pattern shoulder width to see if they are close.

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http://sewtawdry.blogspot.com

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to Elaine Dougan


Date: 6/2/10 2:06 PM

I see shoulders need to be narrower, taken up for sloping shoulder, and a narrow front across the upper chest. I also think that the sleeve is too big. But, remember that a one piece sleeve is never going to hang without some wrinkling.
Where did you add the back length to the yoke and why? It's hard to see all the issues with only a front picture. I think that your right, or the one on the right in the picture, slopes more than the left one.
-- Edited on 6/2/10 2:07 PM --

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Elaine Dougan
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Elaine Dougan  Friend of PR
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In reply to Nancy K


Date: 6/2/10 2:33 PM

I didn't want to show the back because it looks so bad. I added to the center of the bottom part of the yoke. I have a very rounded back and I should have had even more length as you can see by all the wrinkles at the armhole seam. I did not want to add to the top of the back part because of the plaid. The plaid fabric was a poor choice both for the alterations needed and the crispness.This has definitely become a learning experience. I chose a size twelve to start with and have already narrowed the shoulders to a size eight. I also sloped the shoulders by one quarter of an inch. The sleeves are a widened size fourteen. My bicep measurement is 14 and a half inches. The sleeves may be a bit too big, but I feel uncomfortable with tight sleeves. My back is very rounded and broad. My hips are about size twenty or more. As you can tell, I have a large number of fitting issues. I also have a forward head and shoulders. I am beginning to think that a very limited number of styles are going to be suitable for me. I will post the picture of the back, even though I know it is pretty bad.

back

I may as well add to the bad display by showing the side. When I cut out the fabric I somehow cut the back too short. That is one reason it looks so much shorter than the front.

side
-- Edited on 6/2/10 2:39 PM --

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Elaine

goodworks1
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Date: 6/3/10 0:24 AM

Elaine,
I think this blouse is very pretty and I like your selection of this plaid...and your placement of the bias parts.

I do agree that there are still some fitting issues, but really, overall, I think this is quite wearable as is. From your word descriptions, I was expecting many and much worse posture and fitting problems.

Hang in there! I'm learning from this discussion (my mother has way more severe osteoporosis and I'm likely heading that way myself...)
Thanks!

Elaine Good

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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com

Sew4Fun
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In reply to Elaine Dougan


Date: 6/3/10 2:08 AM

Elaine, as far as I am concerned your sleeves are fine. I don't see any spiralling. The one crease you are worried IMHO is simply due to the width of the sleeve, nothing more. Wide sleeves will do this. It's the excess fabric collapsing. My advice would be to narrow the sleeve and restore the sleeve cap height you removed. However you said you don't like tight sleeves so this is the compromise.

Don't be so hard on yourself.

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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

petro
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Date: 6/3/10 3:05 AM

I agree with other posters that the fit in this blouse is not bad at all. The style is loose/comfortable - wider sleeve, pleat in the back, and so you will have some folds as you move in it. I do see a fold going from the top of the sleeve head in some views and this usually happens when the sleeve head has been lifted up overmuch - so that there's less height than needed.
Have you ever done a fitting shell or sloper fit? It might help to clarify what changes you need.

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