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Forum > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > Vogue 1015 Bellville Sassoon ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Vogue 1015 Bellville Sassoon
Help with construction
JudithL
JudithL
Member since 6/29/10
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Date: 6/30/10 5:54 PM

Has anyone made Vogue 1015 pattern and remember their problems? I am making this for my daughter's senior recital and have questions about putting the skirt onto the bodice. This is a fascinating pain to do! The whole pattern, fitting, etc.

Thanks - I'm learning a lot, but would love the wisdom of those who have been there.

MarthaA24
MarthaA24  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/30/10 10:44 PM

I found one review of the dress that seems very detailed that may help as it links to her blog which sounds like goes into detail.

Vogue 1015 pattern review

If you still have questions and no one responds here, you could send Mahogany a pm or I noticed on her review she has links to her blog and you can contact her though that way too.

Best of luck,

------
Martha

Tenshi
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Tenshi
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Member since 1/28/10
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Date: 7/1/10 4:16 AM

I have just made this dressf or my university's graduation ball. I finished the last stitches Sunday night, actually. I will write a review after the ball, when I have photos of me wearing it all made up and styled.
Where exactly is your problem? The construction is really complicated, but fascinating. It sure helps a lot to transfer all the littel triangles and squares and circles - I forgot one of them, on the skirt part 7(?), which gave me a hell of a hard time until I took out the pattern pieces again and marked the right place.

JudithL
JudithL
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In reply to Tenshi


Date: 7/1/10 9:05 PM

GREAT!!! I have so far, made the muslin of the top - that was ok - I need my daughter to do an extra fitting. I may have to bring in the shoulder straps a bit, but not sure.

I sewed the muslin of the skirt and then thought about sewing it to the top and decided it was better to wait until the top is finished. I'm concerned about two spots - one is the stretching of the skirt to fit the top - I figure I can work that out even though I forgot which is easier to have the piece to be stretched to fit nearest the feed dogs or not.

The real issue is what to do with all the fabric where the gathers and the pleats meet. Did you actually sew this as a seam or just overlap and stitch down since the patch covers the stitching.

I'm sure I'll have more questions when I actually get to the fashion fabric and I'm glad to hear you were successful. It is difficult but really fascinating.

I'm new to PatternReview. Is there a way I can e-mail you directly so I don't have to take up the group's time with detailed questions or should I just continue to reply to the messages? Thanks in advance!
Judy

JEF
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JEF  Friend of PR
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In reply to JudithL


Date: 7/1/10 10:42 PM

Welcome to PR!

Feel free to use the boards for the back and forth. We all benefit that way. I'm sure someday someone else will do a search for that pattern on the boards and be thrilled to read this thread.

If you want to send private messages (PM), you have be to a Friend of PR (paying a yearly membership fee - (currently $29.95)), or be PMing a moderator (it says moderator under our avatar, or responding to a PM. Basically, as a free member you can't initiate a PM conversation. Some free members will post "[Name], please PM me" to a FoPR to get the ball rolling, as appropriate.

You can check out the benefits of being a FoPR at official benefits and what people say about them here

HTH,

JEF

ETA: correct typo and clarification
-- Edited on 7/2/10 5:51 AM --

------
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln

Tenshi
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Tenshi
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In reply to JudithL


Date: 7/2/10 5:28 AM

I had to take in the shoulder straps, too. I also had the necklinee gaping both in front and back, had to adjust the pleats (a lot!) and change the curve where the skirt attaches.
I did make a seam where the pleats meet, but I am not sure that they meet exactly aas instructed. I substituted the gathering in the lower front bodice part with pleats and that changed the line of the piece a bit, I fear. My seam at that position is a bit curved whereas I think it should be straight. I did not put the patch over it, by the way, because that part is heavy enough already and the flowers cover it up anyways.

JudithL
JudithL
Member since 6/29/10
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In reply to Tenshi


Date: 7/2/10 6:09 AM

Thanks for the info. I'm holding off for now on any additional adjustments until I get to see my daughter in a couple of weeks. I'll post more after I actually start to do something. I've never really altered clothing before and this dress is a bunch of puzzle pieces - So far I added an inch to the front bodice neckline (and obviously to the foundation too - haven't done the lining as I'm still in muslin - hope I don't forget!) had to add to the foundation in the waist and center back, but had to take in the right shoulder/upper back area of the back on bodice/foundation.

Why did you adjust the pleats and the curve where the skirt attaches? What issues may I be getting into here? I'm planning on using a Techno Satin fabric I found online which is heavier than the fabric shown but I believe it will have a nice drape- I will be lining it, and making the foundation is light weight cotton.

Judy

Tenshi
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Tenshi
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Date: 7/2/10 7:02 AM

The pleats on the bodice and my bust just didn't meet in the right way. Call it a wannabe Small Bust Adjustment. I had to change the location of all the darts, by the way, or at least make them bigger/deeper and a bit longer, too. I think my torso above the bust is a bit longer than standard, or my bust is lower and located more tiowards the center front, or whatever. The changing of the skirt attachment curve also belonged to the bust adjusstment - I had to smooth excess width out below the pleats in some way, and that was the easiest way to do it instead of changing those pleats even more.

I have never learnt pattern alteration, never took a course or read a book about it so far, so all I have done is smooth out wrinkles in a way that seemed logical to me. I have read about getting rid of a gaping neckline by slashing & rotating the pattern piece, and applied that technique to other areas as well, but usually I just pinch away excess fabric where it occurs and try to do the same to my pattern pieces. So, bear in mind that there might be better ways to go about adjusting this pattern to your daughter's body than mine.

Oh, another change I made: I made no foundation. The fit is nice enough and with a size 12 and no obvious fat rolls I just don't think I'd need it. I did not like the foundation pattern provided, because I figured having the boning end at the waist might be very uncomfortable. Also, I think that this foundation pattern needs more bones, one on each seam. Otherwise it just doesn't make a lot of sense to me, because I am used to corsets.

JudithL
JudithL
Member since 6/29/10
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Date: 7/6/10 7:15 PM

Hi again. Have you taken photos? I'd love to see your finished dress.

My daughter is here and I've figured out the bodice and the foundation (YAY). However (there is always a but, isn't there). I think I need to move in the shoulder straps on the back and I don't really know how to do this. For now, I just folded under the top to where I'd like the strap to end. I may have made the straps too long - I'm thinking about all my options.

You said you moved the straps too - do you remember how you did it? Doesn't moving the straps in on the back/front alter the 'point' where they are attached? Do you just do this until it looks right?

Since I am making the foundation, I'm presuming I'll need to alter both bodice and foundation -

but....I'm also a bit concerned that the pattern calls for 4 layers of straps - fabric and lining for both top and foundation. I may just do fabric and one layer of lining and skip the extra step - seems to me like a lot of fabric for a small strap.

Oh, one more thing - the pattern seems to call for boning in the shoulder strap - forgive me, but why would anyone do that? Wouldn't that not lay right? Did you put boning in the straps? I bet not if you didn't bother with the foundation - you'd not then bother with the boning.

Even though I think I fitted the foundation, I may make and line the top and see how it fits without the foundation!

Thanks for your feedback! I've got a headache from this and will quit for tonight.

Judy
-- Edited on 7/6/10 8:55 PM --

JudithL
JudithL
Member since 6/29/10
Posts: 5
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Date: 7/7/10 8:55 PM

Tenshi, I now understand your needing to alter the curve on the 'bodice'. I put the skirt and top together and my daughter tried it on. Oh my what a non flattering dress. We scrapped the idea as she lives too far apart to try to make this work. It would need to be completely recrafted.

I found this to be a frustrating but very fun challenge. I feel more accomplished now and hopefully the next pattern we pick will be more flattering.

Thank you for your comments, they were very helpful.

Judy

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