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Forum > Plus Size Sewing > Help with a plus size blouse ( Moderated by JEF)

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Help with a plus size blouse
How to modify pattern
Busyles
Busyles
Member since 6/20/09
Posts: 14
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Date: 7/8/10 11:35 PM

I'm making a button down blouse (McCalls 6124) for a plus size woman who needs it for work. Purchased the Plus Size pattern, but her bust measurement is 55 inches, waist 54 inches. Pattern is princess seams. Where should I add inches since the largest size on pattern fits bust 46? Is there a different pattern company that has patterns to fit my needs?

DiePhem
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DiePhem
Advanced Beginner
GERMANY
Member since 1/19/10
Posts: 29
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Date: 7/9/10 3:12 AM

I can't help with the modification but maybe a pattern that comes in larger sizes might help, for example
McCall M5145.
I am not sure whether that pattern meets all your specifications but it comes up to size 32 W (with a 54 inch bust circumference).
HTH.

LornaJay
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LornaJay
Advanced Beginner
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 9/30/06
Posts: 576
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Date: 7/9/10 4:49 AM

Both Burda and Petite Plus patterns come in sizes up to 60" if you get the right patterns, so you might have a look at them.

Towanda
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Towanda
Intermediate
Maryland USA
Member since 9/29/02
Posts: 659
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Date: 7/9/10 7:52 AM

It is not worth the stress of trying to grade a pattern up to her size unless it is an unique pattern. Save yourself the aggravation and get a larger size pattern.

------
Towanda
Happiness is an endless fabric budget
http://lifeissewsewgood.blogspot.com/

Cathy Loves Fabric
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Cathy Loves Fabric  Friend of PR
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USA
Member since 4/16/04
Posts: 1884
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In reply to Busyles


Date: 7/9/10 8:18 AM

What you are describing is my normal FBA. Fit for Real People describes how to do an FBA to princess seams. You may also need to add some to the side seams. Whether or not you want to go up to a larger size depends on her shoulder and neck size. My neck and shoulder size is smaller than my bust size so I buy patterns by my shoulder size and grade up my bust size. If her shoulders are wide, you may be able to go up to a larger size but will probably still need to do a FBA. It's not too hard. Just follow the step by step instructions in the book. Check the knowledge section of PR to see if this alteration is posted online. Good luck!

------
My hope is to sew to the very end. They'll find my head slumped over my precious Kenmore 19606 and have to pry the seam ripper from my cold, dead hands.

michellep74
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michellep74  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Washington USA
Member since 7/19/07
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Date: 7/9/10 1:46 PM

What is her high bust measurement and/or cup size? HotPatterns go up to a 52" bust/54" hip and draft for a large cup size in the upper size range, so that would probably put you in the ballpark. They have a basic shoulder princess seamed blouse that I've made and is flattering on a curvy figure.

------
--Michelle

***
Blog: http://happilycaffeinated.blogspot.com/

2014 Fabric IN: 153.13 yards
2014 Fabric OUT: 88 yards
2014 Fabric Sewn: 38 yards
2014 Fabric Donated: 50 yards
pre-2014 Stash patterns used in 2014: 7

Busyles
Busyles
Member since 6/20/09
Posts: 14
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Date: 7/9/10 3:01 PM

Thanks everyone for your help. I'll certainly look into the patterns and articles you've suggested.

Ruth C
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Ruth C  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Oregon USA
Member since 12/27/02
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Date: 7/9/10 3:24 PM

Butterick's Connie Crawford patterns go up that far. B5365 is a cute blouse that many people have liked.

sewgramma

sewgramma  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Washington USA
Member since 12/1/07
Posts: 238
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In reply to Busyles


Date: 7/9/10 3:34 PM

Busyles, I have similar measurements to the woman you will be sewing for. My full bust is 55, waist 54 and hips are 56. However, my HIGH bust is only 46 so I look for a patterns to fit my HIGH bust, not my full bust. I then do an FBA on the pattern and a few other modifications.

In a plus size woman the high bust measurement is really better to use anyway because the pattern will fit much better in the shoulders and upper chest. Trust me on this! Pattern companies grade up from regular misses to get to plus sizes, but a plus size body does not get proportionately bigger in the shoulder & upper chest area.

I used to use my full bust measurement to find patterns & found almost no selection, and what I did find was much too large in the neck & upper chest once I made it up. So now I buy any pattern I want according to my high bust. It's much easier to make something larger than smaller, so it's no big deal to do an FBA.

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