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Princess seams and a FBA
Fitting issues
Idosew
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Idosew
Intermediate
New York USA
Member since 2/6/07
Posts: 14
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Date: 7/10/10 7:52 PM

My daughter is making Simplicity 2473 (princess seamed dress) http://www.simplicity.com/p-3646-misses-dresses-inspired-by-project-runway.aspx
We measured her (Bust: 35, High Bust: 32 1/2, Waist:26, Hips: 36). The size 10 didn't seem to have enough width in the back. We attempted making a size 12 muslin with a FBA using slash and pivot method described in a Sew News article by Barbara Weiland. The princess seamed bodice fit her ok across the bust however, it was too big through the midriff/waist. And too big across the back after all. I also found that her back neck-waist length is only 15". The midriff piece for a size 10 would be 30 1/4 and her measurement there is 28 1/4. I realize some ease is essential, but she is 16 and would prefer a snugger fit. How do we adjust for a full bust and a narrow waist? I think the FBA in the Sew News article would be better suited for a top, not a bodice that has to be fitted to a waist/ skirt. Any help would be appreciated. We are preparing to make muslin #2 using a size 10 Petite and trying a FBA adjustment on that.
Thanks.

emergcy1

emergcy1  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Maryland USA
Member since 12/13/09
Posts: 113
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In reply to Idosew


Date: 7/10/10 8:05 PM

I use Sandra Betzina's princess seam FBA and do not find that it adds to the waistline. In the method you slash open the side front at an inch below the armhole just into the seam line and spread by the amount you need (1/2" for every size over a B cup), and separate the front pattern piece complete at the same place you did on the side front and spread it by the same amount you expanded the side front. Hopefully this makes sense. In another post on FBAs creating too much addition at the waist another member, can't remember who now, explains she separates her patterns at the waist and only does the FBA on the bodice portion, once done - tapes the pattern pieces back together, and trues the seams. I'm sure that would work for a princess seamed dress as well, you just need to mark your waistline on each piece if not already marked.
-- Edited on 7/10/10 8:06 PM --

------
Stash 2010: 139 yards
2010 fabric purchased: 272
2010 fabric used: 32.5
Stash 2011: 378.5
2011 fabric purchased: 44.5 yards
2011 fabric used: 13.5

Idosew
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Idosew
Intermediate
New York USA
Member since 2/6/07
Posts: 14
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In reply to emergcy1


Date: 7/11/10 12:18 PM

Thanks so much...I also found directions on this, including a photo that make it seem so simple. We'll post photos when we're done!
http://encue.blogspot.com/2008/07/new-blouse.html
The Burda workshop links didn't lead to anything helpful, but this should do the trick.

***Update: She made the new muslin yesterday and the fit is amazing. So much better! Thanks for your suggestions. She is having oral surgery tomorrow and may not get to the dress for a few days, but when she does, I'll post a photo in the gallery. I think it will be lovely on her.
-- Edited on 7/12/10 8:21 PM --

TerukoLynn
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TerukoLynn
Beginner
Virginia USA
Member since 7/13/10
Posts: 7
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Date: 9/6/10 9:46 PM

I'm so glad that I found your post. I have the exact same problem with FBA that you were talking about. After reading the replies on here, checking out your blog and seeing that you had success with your alterations I tried it out on New Look 6457 and VOILA! The fit is fabulous and didn't add a bit to the waist or underarm area. Thanks for the help!

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