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Bust alteration
Increasing for full bust
Anne S

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Date: 10/22/02 4:30 PM

I have read on PR about increasing for full bust measurement. I know how to do this if a dart is involved but with many of the knits there are no darts.  I am not sure how to do the increase.  Thanks :)

Gigi Louis
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Date: 10/23/02 7:51 AM

Anne, doing a full bust alteration in a dartless pattern is nothing more than adding a dart, which adds length and width to the front.  The dart can then be stitched horizontally, eased in at the side seam at the bust location (great for knits), moved to another location (vertically) or moved and eliminated (moved to a vertical location and then taken out of the side seam.  HTH!

Ann B.
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Date: 10/23/02 8:01 PM

Gigi, do one of your favorite fitting books have the directions for moving a dart vertically, then taking it out at the side seams?  I think I would like this technique.  Also, if you need more "hip room", I suppose you could just leave it in.  Thanks,  ~Ann

Gigi Louis
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Date: 10/23/02 8:39 PM

Ann, I highly recommend the Palmer/Pletsch book Fit For Real People - it's probably one of the most comprehensive fitting books around.  Instead of a bunch of diagrams (although it has those too) there are photos of real people with real bodies (no models here) doing pattern alterations.  The moving/removal of a dart is shown in this book.  Shirley recently did that in her turtleneck not wanting to sew a dart in such a simple garment.

Ann B.
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Date: 10/23/02 11:16 PM

Thanks Gigi, I found the alteration in the PP book.  I love this book.  this is the book that I learned to do the original adjustment win.  How could I have missed this gem?  I like how they show the alteration on a full dress.  I agree, this is my favorite fitting book.  Thanks again.  ~Ann

Femme
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Femme
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Date: 10/24/02 10:24 AM

Is there any way to increase for a larger bust (D cup) in knits without adding a dart? What about just splitting the pattern to add width and then adding a little length?  (I think I just need to get the book!!;)

Gigi Louis
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Date: 10/24/02 3:47 PM

Yes, you can Femme.  You can slash the pattern horizontally at the bust to add length and then use pivot and slide to add more width.  The extra length will them be eased into the side seam.  I just prefer to use the dart method since it adds both width and length at the same time.  Just call me lazy.:-)

Femme
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Femme
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Date: 10/24/02 4:07 PM

Thanks, Gigi! Fitting and making these adjustments is my biggest bugaboo right now...I need to look at pictures of the techniques, because it's hard for me to "get it" by just reading text.

Deb (I'm the old "Deb" on here [Femme1 on Sewing World], but had to change my login name due to someone else using the same name!;)

Mel.J
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Mel.J
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Date: 11/1/02 5:12 PM

I found a full bust adjustment article.
It describes the slash & pivot option.

Am I right in thinking that using the simple dart option is used for going up 1-2 cup sizes but if you wanted to increase 4 cup sizes this method would be the thing to do?

------
Mel (Melbourne, Australia)

Gigi Louis
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Date: 11/1/02 5:29 PM

This method would work well for any size increase (and reversed for any decrease) - however (and this is just my personal preference) I prefer to draw the line from about the lower 1/3rd of the armscye to the bust point (making a pivot point at the seamline so it's length does not change).  That will change the shape of the armscye which I think we so often need to get a gap-free fit AND not add anything in the upper chest.  If you need extra fabric in the upper chest then by all means draw your line to the shoulder point as shown.  I also prefer to actually tissue-fit the pattern rather than adding a preset amount based on cup size.  I measure how far away the pattern's CF is from my CF and that becomes the amount I add in the width.  

But it all boils down to what works best for each person - if you are using one method and it's working for you I would stick with it.

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