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Pants Fitting for large abdomen
what size to start with?
KathySews
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KathySews
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Michigan USA
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Date: 7/22/10 10:25 PM

Its time to make pants. I made a muslin of the new Cutting Line Design pants pattern. The result of using my hip measurement is pants that are huge through the legs. I will post photos tomorrow.

As I look at these pants it appears that the problem is that because the hip measurement includes my abdomen (of course) the pants hang straight down from the abdomen which results in tons of fabric in the front. Not a good look.

I have been researching the full abdomen adjustment but I cannot find how to determine what size pants to start with. I am thinking it would be the same theory as using an upper bust measurement when doing an fba.

My goal is to determine a good size to start with, then develop my full abdomen adjustment (FAA) so that the legs of the pants are not so full

Anyone have experience with this?

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to KathySews


Date: 7/23/10 0:12 AM

When my tummy blossomed in the past two years, I was faced with a conundrum--what size pattern should I buy? Then realized it should be bought by my hip measurement; basically for the reason you mentioned about the legs being so big. If I were to buy the pattern by my waist measurement, that would make my hips bigger, but the legs would be gigantic because the legs are usually drafted from a hip measurement.

So now what I do is add the extra width (it slipped down from my waist to my high hip/abdomen area) about three inches above my hipline, where my full abdomen is. I also have a sway back, so the measurements are almost the same between my high hip and hip. But being as patterns come in smaller waist sizes, what works best for me is changing the waist only.

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petro
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petro  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/23/10 3:59 AM

I'd be interested to see what you end up doing to your pattern for this adjustment. Getting rid of front darts and removing the shaping at the top on the side seam adds a bit, but if its not enough, then that would leave shaping out the side seam to increase the front width, or shaping out the cf seam, or a bit of each. Its a common fitting problem, and it would be so useful to see what solutions work for different people. I'm considering moving the cf zip I usually have on pants to a side position (or even cb) as this would make it easier to have a cf seam which shapes out over the bulge.

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Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to petro


Date: 7/23/10 7:53 AM

Quote:
I'm considering moving the cf zip I usually have on pants to a side position (or even cb) as this would make it easier to have a cf seam which shapes out over the bulge.

I did this with a pair of washed silk pants and put the zipper in the back; I live in those pants during the summer!

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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
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sunshinegal
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In reply to KathySews


Date: 7/23/10 8:23 AM

This was a tip from Sandra Betzina, when you have a large abdomen you slash and spread from the waist down to the lower hip so the legs would not be too large. I cut one size for the front and a smaller size for the back and blend the cutting lines for the legs. As a whole I think Cutting Line patterns run large so maybe measure upper thigh and slash and spread the hip area. 3 summers ago I spent a month making muslins of 3 different pants patterns. It took a lot of trial and error to get the fit right (a husband is not a very good helper) but it was worth it in the end. I ended up with Petite Plus basic pant, Sandra Betzina jeans and Loes Hinse capri pants. Hope this helps.

Michelle L
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Michelle L
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In reply to KathySews


Date: 7/23/10 9:07 AM

I recently made a pair of pants for my mother who is definitely an apple shape...what worked best for her was to begin by tracing a pattern that fit her hips and then altering to add to the waist. Otherwise, the legs were giant, and her legs are actually quite thin.

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Michelle

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KathySews
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Date: 7/23/10 9:11 AM

I have the Petite Plus book. I think I will muslin that today. Also signed up for a pants fitting class at with Judy Kessinger of FitNice at the American Sewing Expo in Sept.

I don't have the patience to do muslin after muslin but decided to work on this for a couple of days. I was hoping the pull on pants would be quick and easy to make light weight pants to get through this heat.

That Cutting Line Design pattern is cute - even if it might not work out for me.

jeanau
jeanau
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In reply to KathySews


Date: 7/23/10 11:05 AM

Let us know how the Petite Plus pattern works. I have the book and also the pattern for the tapered pull on pant. I haven't made anything yet, but I would like to end up with a slimmer leg than most pants in my size have. Good luck.
Audrey

Synj Munki

Synj Munki
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Date: 7/23/10 4:53 PM

I really like the book "Sewing for Plus Sizes: Design, Fit, and Construction for Ample Apparel" by Barbara Deckert (and not just b/c she calls my figure type Madaam Peanut, LOL!).

In this book, the adjustment for "Large or Hanging Belly" on page 88, it shows using the pattern for hip size and then "Raise the waistline of skirts and pants from center front, tapering to the side seams, and add width at the hips [to the front of the pattern] so the garment flows over your tummy and does not cling to it. For pants, increase the length of the front crotch seam the same amount you added to the center front to maintain adequate crotch seam length"

OP Gal
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OP Gal  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/23/10 6:37 PM

I took a pants making class from Cynthia Guffey, and she recommends beginning with a commercial pattern and measuring the front and back of the body separately and transferring the measurements to the pattern. On her website she has a small book and a DVD on her technique. It worked for me.

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