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Forum > Fitting Woes > not sure WHAT kind of adjustment i need?? ( Moderated by Deepika, Jacqui315)

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not sure WHAT kind of adjustment i need??
Patty the Snug Bug
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Patty the Snug Bug
USA
Member since 2/25/10
Posts: 13
Skill: Advanced
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Date: 8/7/10 0:15 AM

Hey all! Any help would be appreciated!

I'm working on new Look 6808 which is a basic shirt with shaping provided with two ended darts in the front and back. I am having some problem with wrinkling and puddling around the small of my back - exactly in the center of the two ended darts on the back side. After fussing with it, I just had my husband cut the muslin right in the center back from the bottom to the mid-point of the two-ended darts. This cut makes the back of the shirt lie perfectly, but I'm not sure how to transfer to the pattern! The back piece is cut on the fold, so I can't really add to the 'fold' side, which is where he made the cut. And i can't just cut in and swing apart, because it wrinkles the pattern. Also, I'm not sure if adding to the sides will help, it seems that it really needs to be added BETWEEN the darts on the back!
chicaem29
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chicaem29
New York USA
Member since 3/4/09
Posts: 1711
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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In reply to Patty the Snug Bug

Date: 8/7/10 0:41 AM

You could add a center back seam, and then add the amount you need where you need it. When the center back is a seam instead of on the fold it doesn't have to be perfectly straight/on grain. Just make sure to re-draw the grainline somewhere else on the pattern parallel to the original. In your muslin, just add in fabric where you cut (pin or sew), and then measure the size of the addition.
julie w
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julie w
Western Australia Australia
Member since 12/25/06
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Date: 8/7/10 0:48 AM

Is it possible to sew the bottom of the dart narrower? Would this give you enough extra fabric?

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Julie, Perth, WA

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Patty the Snug Bug
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Patty the Snug Bug
USA
Member since 2/25/10
Posts: 13
Skill: Advanced
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Date: 8/7/10 11:12 AM

Thanks guys! chica - after hemming and hawing and falling asleep thinking about it, I got up and did EXACTLY what you suggested! It looks perfect now!

And i tried messing with the darts, but there just wasn't enough fabric in the darts to do what I needed!

Centerback seam, you are my friend!!
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