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Forum > Fitting Woes > using multi-sizing patterns for fit ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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using multi-sizing patterns for fit
fitting using multi-sizing patterns
Nancy Mac

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Subject: useing multi-sizing pattermsf or fit Date: 8/7/10 8:52 PM

Hi,
I'm just starting to fix my fit in tops. Like many, I think that I should be using my high bust measurements for fitting at the shoulders and neck. I often hear of someone using a size 12, for the neck & shoulders and perhaps a size 16 for the bust and size 14 for the rest of a top. This is my question: How do you determine where to change the size of the armhole for the bodice, back and sleeve when using a higher bust "size" then your neck size. Or do you just do a FBA? Thanks

-- Edited on 8/7/10 8:58 PM --

Elona
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In reply to Nancy Mac
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Date: 8/7/10 10:15 PM

Bobbie Carr, rather famous Burda maven and teacher, told me that you began the switch to the larger size for a full bust starting at the notches on the armscye. She also said that with Burda (can't speak for other multisize patterns) the neck size--which is actually on their measurement chart, as it should be--is also your shoulder size.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to Nancy Mac


Date: 8/8/10 4:25 PM

The armhole changes at the notch, going in toward the side seam. This should be your high bust measurement. Then at the notch, going out past the shoulder dot, you use your regular size. You do this both on shoulder and bodice pieces.

As to an FBA, sometiimes, with some companies, such as KwikSew, Burda and Lutterloh (European fit) you can get away with this without doing an FBA because they make their patterns in multi sizes and well as raise the armholes to accommodate the change. However, with the Big 4, you can't and have to do an FBA, because the armholes are different.

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Nancy Mac

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Date: 8/8/10 4:51 PM

OK, the notch is where you adjust. I'm a little confused, though. If my bust is a size 14, but my high bust is a 12, I use size 14 and then at the notch true it down to a size 12 up to the shoulder point. Is that correct? And this can be used with Burda, Kwik and other European co's. With the big 4, I sould use a size 12 (high bust) and then do a FBA, because the armholes arn't high enough. And then also use the waist, hip for the size 14? Did I get this right? Thanks for the advise, it's frustrating to sew something up and have it "just not fit right".

Nancy Mac

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Date: 8/9/10 8:02 PM

Thanks for your help, I think that experimenting with these and FBA's is something that needs to be done on an individaual basis and then see what works best. But using the notches as a reference point really made sense, thanks!

Fictionfan
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Date: 8/10/10 4:56 PM

Whether you need a FBA or can just blend sizes at the appropriate points depends on where you need the room in the garment for it to fit your body. If you are a B-cup, you can probably blend and have the fit you need, since patterns are generally drafted for the B-cup size. If you have a larger cup size, chances are that you will have a better fit using the smaller size with a FBA because the FBA puts the extra material where you need it. If you start with the smaller size, does the back fit well on its own? Or does the back need the extra width of the larger size for the side seams to line up correctly (once you've done any length adjustments you need)? It's a good idea to learn to tissue fit. It will answer your questions on a pattern-by-pattern basis. For example, you might need to do both a blend of sizes and a FBA in a very close fitting garment, and no adjustments at all if the garment if loosely fitted.

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gramma b
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Date: 11/12/12 1:45 PM

I got a stash of nice garage sale nice OOPS patterns this summer.
Some are to small for anyone in the family, kids or adults.

Question: If the pattern lines go up 1/4" or so from size 6 to 8 etc,
can you keep adding a 1/4" to get to 10-12 and up?

Older patterns have also changed envelope measurements
(no more Scarlet O'hara waists!) so how does one from the 80's
equate to today? I wondered if the real Retro patterns seen in the books now had to be altered to today's figures.

stirwatersblue
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In reply to gramma b <<


Date: 11/12/12 4:11 PM

Quote: gramma b
Question: If the pattern lines go up 1/4" or so from size 6 to 8 etc, can you keep adding a 1/4" to get to 10-12 and up?


Can't speak for your patterns, but I once read an interesting article about RTW that said standard industry sizing for sizes 0-8 (that's RTW sizing) has 1/2" difference between each size. Above size 8, that goes up to 1". (Now that I say that, it sounds extraordinarily large. Hmm.) Anyway, it was kind of a revelation for me, since at my normal weight, 8s are often a smidge too snug, but 10s are way too big. The sudden jump in difference explained that!

Anyway, so at a guess, those patterns may originally have had more size-difference between 10+ than that 1/4" on the smaller patterns. But... I would think that since you're doing the grading, you should be able to add whatever you personally need to each seam.

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