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Forward or back shoulder adjustment
How do I know when to do it
Kirstenw
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Kirstenw
Intermediate
SOUTH AFRICA
Member since 9/26/07
Posts: 157
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Date: 9/2/10 1:40 AM

I know this sounds like a very ignorant question.

How do I tell if I need this alteration? Does the sleeve hang incorrectly or will I be able to see simply on the shoulder seam.

Because of not getting purchased patterns to fit I have been making my own but that entails much work and I think I miss out on new style details so I have decided to learn more about alterations and have noticed that here on PR there is so much to learn, thank you.

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Kirsten

http://kirstenssewingworld.blogspot.com/

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
Advanced
USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 7936
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In reply to Kirstenw


Date: 9/2/10 8:34 AM

Kirsten, you will know if you need a forward or back shoulder adjustment when you put on your blouse/top. The shoulder seams will move forward or backward, rather than sit on the shoulders themselves. You shouldn't see the seam when you look in a mirror.

If the shoulder seam pulls to the back, you need a forward shoulder adjustment. Right now I'm wearing a RTW top and the last two inches of my shoulder seam are rolling toward the back, about an inch to an inch and a half. (2.54 cm to 4 cm). I always have to do a forward shoulder adjustment.

On the other hand, if the shoulder drops to the front, you have to do the opposite.

Your sleeve may hang incorrectly as well. If you need a forward shoulder adjustment, the sleeve will feel too tight in the front. Vice versa with the back shoulder adjustment.

There are many tips here on PR how to do this adjustment, and Threads magazine has an excellent tutorial for one that doesn't change the shape of the armhole.

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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
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GlButterfly

GlButterfly
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 8/28/08
Posts: 3253
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In reply to Miss Fairchild


Date: 9/2/10 2:27 PM

Something I've been meaning to try, but not certain if it will work.

Usually we pin the shoulders and put on the pattern/garment/muslin and go from there.

I'm thinking of beginning the fit at the underarm and getting things all lined up there, then proceeding to the shoulders. If my back (or front) shoulder seam does not come to my shoulder, then I'll know I need to add to that one and how much.

Or, it will tell me that it is not the shoulder which needs adjusting, but the back (or front) length.

In other words, not concerning myself with the shoulder fit, but fitting the bodice, not yet pinned, to my front and back and putting them where they belong and then pinning. Next, smoothening the fabric (or pattern) upward and doing the shoulders and neckline. For me, I think this would give me a more accurate idea of just where I need the adjustment(s).

I've always thought that this would be a better fitting proceedure especially for those who have "hiking up" situations, because it would show more accurately just where the adjustments are needed.

Maybe I'll write a best-selling book on the subject.

------
That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

ccris
ccris
Intermediate
Member since 10/27/05
Posts: 5071
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In reply to GlButterfly


Date: 9/2/10 9:26 PM

I think you just might be on to something. I really, really do. Making sure the side seams are perpendicular to the floor makes a lot of sense. A forward or backward swinging side seam "would" influence the shoulder seam. Let us know what you find, and also your book pub date!!!

Rowena B
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Rowena B  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 10/2/02
Posts: 55
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Date: 9/2/10 9:41 PM

On Connie Crawford's website (Fashion Patterns (dot) com) there is a sample clip from her Custom Fitting & Trueing DVD. Which seems to illustrate fitting up to the shoulder area, not down.
-- Edited on 9/2/10 9:43 PM --

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Perth, Western Australia

mistygirl902

mistygirl902
Intermediate
New York USA
Member since 1/29/07
Posts: 53
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Date: 9/3/10 8:27 AM

In MarcyTilton's "Easy Guide to Sewing Tops and T-Shirts"(pp 46-47), she describes and illustrates how to balance the armhole if the front and back armhole pattern piece are the same depth. She does this by adding 1/4" to the back shoulder and trimming 1/4" from the front. She says that some patterns are drafted this way, but that all patterns benefit from it.
By the way, this is an excellent book, full of useful guidance like this.

lareine
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lareine  Friend of PR
Intermediate
NEW ZEALAND
Member since 11/10/06
Posts: 1070
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Date: 9/3/10 8:46 AM

Something I was reading recently -- can't remember what, possibly one of my fitting books -- suggested that EVERYBODY who works on a computer regularly needs a forward shoulder adjustment. This is something I haven't tried myself but I really should. I'm hunched over a desk seven days a week!

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