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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Raglan sleeve fitting issue ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Raglan sleeve fitting issue
starryfish
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starryfish  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/6/10 5:54 AM

I have made a muslin of Vogue 8670 view E. The knit is a very unstretchy remnant, but there are wrinkles around my armpits that I am puzzled how to remove.

I am not bothered about the wrinkles coming from the neckline, as they are caused by my not easing the collar correctly.
Can I get the fit any better? Would it be better in the good wool knit I am planning?
-- Edited on 9/17/10 10:18 PM --
-- Edited on 9/18/10 3:32 PM --

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dorothyn
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dorothyn  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/11/10 3:48 AM

I have had the same experience with raglan sleeved knit tops. I'm not sure I have a lot of help to offer, but I do think the wrinkles would be a little less pronounced with a softer, stretchier knit.

If you think about where you are trying to fit, you are draping a flat piece of fabric over a very curved part of your body (your shoulder), so it's logical that the fabric is going to wrinkle at the armpit as it goes smoothly over the shoulder.

The only raglan style I've seen that doesn't do this is one that is either pieced on top from neck to wrist, or has a dart from the neck to just over the shoulder to provide more shaping.

Someone who is more of a fitting goddess might have more nuanced insights to offer than I. I've just decided to live with the wrinkles on that style!

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Dorothy

"Mr Shepherd, ye cannot stop a bad thought from coming into your head. But ye need not pull up a chair and bide it sit down."

Violet Brown in Barbara Kingsolver's The Lacuna

mary in FL
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mary in FL  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/11/10 10:39 AM

I have very square shoulders like that, and tend to avoid raglan sleeves because I haven't bothered to figure out the fitting issues yet.

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from Daytona Beach, FL
http://mary-sews.blogspot.com/

MNBarb
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MNBarb  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/11/10 11:06 AM

I just, this morning, read a fix for this in Marcy Tilton's book, Easy Guide to Sewing Tops and T-Shirts. I don't think I can describe it without photos. The book was available at my public library. The technique is called, Refining dropped-shoulder and raglan sleeves. Maybe you can Google it.

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Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
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kath210
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In reply to MNBarb


Date: 9/11/10 1:54 PM

I'm bookmarking this page as I'm about to start some raglan sleeved tops myself. I've read that they are best for broad-shouldered ladies (as I am) and haven't had an issue with RTW raglans...but sewing them myself may be entirely different. Let us know how it goes, please!

koo104
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koo104
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In reply to starryfish


Date: 9/11/10 4:02 PM

It looks like the neck trim is pulling up the sleeve which is contributing to the U/A wrinkle. The neck trim is to tight compared to the rest of the body. If you took off the neck trim, let the top relax until wrinkles are gone. This will also lengthen the outer side which is hiking up. You may want to change this to a ballet neck and adjust the pattern for another top. If you want a tighter neck trim, I think you would need to have the body more fitting so you would pin out fullness from upper body around each raglan seam to reduce the neck opening

Raglan seam work best either in a loser fit and lower armhole or on a fitted body with a higher armhole tighter sleeve. Then you add 1/4" at the side seam & U/A seam to give extra hook for better movement.

mary in FL
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In reply to MNBarb


Date: 9/11/10 8:47 PM

Quote: MNBarb
I just, this morning, read a fix for this in Marcy Tilton's book, Easy Guide to Sewing Tops and T-Shirts.

Oh, goody, I have this book! It was not in the index, but I found it by flipping through the book. It's on pages 47-48, for the curious.

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from Daytona Beach, FL
http://mary-sews.blogspot.com/

starryfish
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starryfish  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/17/10 5:51 AM

Thank you for all your help! I think you may be right that raglan sleeves don't go with my body type. I never thought of myself as having particularly square shoulders, although I knew they were narrow and rather bony.
That book sounds interesting, my library has a very small section of dressmaking books though.
I think I'll put this aside for now and go back to set in sleeves.

------
Goals for 2013
Perfect my TNT Trousers

Read my blog http://starryfishathome.wordpress.com

mary in FL
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mary in FL  Friend of PR
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In reply to starryfish


Date: 9/17/10 9:18 PM

Quote: starryfish
I think I'll put this aside for now and go back to set in sleeves.

Heh, heh -- that's exactly how I currently feel about raglan sleeves.

------
from Daytona Beach, FL
http://mary-sews.blogspot.com/

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