Member since 11/3/05
Date: 9/9/10 8:02 AM
I'm working on a muslin for Burda 08-2009-106 pants that have a center front seam on each leg.
I am finding that the legs pull across the front of my thigh when I walk or sit (my thighs are definitely full in front compared to my crotch/lower hip area).
I can obviously let the center seam out to allow more fabric to go over my thighs, but that will then move that part of the center seam off of the straight grain. I have done this on the muslin, and it definitely addresses the fit problem.
I found a link to Els (The Sewing Divas) tutorial on how to fix the front pattern piece to adjust for this, but since she shows a "normal" pants front without a center seam, the crease line remains on the straight grain.
Should I just go with the easy fix of widening the front on those center seam edges from the top to the bottom of my thigh? If not, how do I adjust the pattern to keep the seam on the straight grain.
I hope this makes sense!
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Member since 1/31/06
Date: 9/27/10 8:53 PM
I would be interested in this too if anyone knows!
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Member since 7/19/03
Date: 9/27/10 9:12 PM
I would make the changes in the muslin as you have indicated. And then try the pants on to see how they hang. (I see you've done this.) Do they LOOK straight? If not...
When you take the muslin apart to draw the next iteration, I would draw a new grainline on each piece. In other words, straighten the slightly curved line. The problem with this method is that you'll probably have to take the seam in a bit toward your waist...sort of like a dart.
OR you could add the extra fabric on either side of the center front seam. To know how much, you could slash the muslin parallel to the front thigh seam and let it spread naturally to know how much change to make. That way you could keep the current grainline along the seam....
I have no idea which way would be better without trying it.
-- Edited on 9/28/10 9:32 AM --
Member since 3/6/09
Date: 9/28/10 10:03 AM
Here's what I would try...
Add the fabric needed to get the pants to fit properly. Then, lay the muslin out matching inseam to outseam and press in a new crease. Try the pants on & see if everything hangs right. Then adjust the pattern pieces to get the front seam where the crease is.
Forgive me for all my edits, this is all based on never trying it myself. Actually, in rereading your post.........the original letting out of the front seams should be the fix. Since there is a curve in the front of your leg, I don't think you're going off grain. You're just adding the leg curve to your pants. If it looks good & hangs straight, don't worry so much about grain.
-- Edited on 9/28/10 10:05 AM --
-- Edited on 9/28/10 10:09 AM --
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