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Forum > Beginner's Forum > I don't understand butterick 5315 ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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I don't understand butterick 5315
front facing trouble
lulurose
lulurose
Advanced Beginner
Member since 11/4/09
Posts: 140
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Date: 9/11/10 1:51 PM

I'm having trouble with 5315
I've read through the reviews and every seems to agree not to follow the directions given on the button and button hole facing. However, I don't know enough to "wing it" and sure the heck can't figure out the directions.

If I sew it the way I think* it should be done, how do I know if I'm taking up enough the fabric or leaving too much?


Any ideas?

lulurose
lulurose
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Member since 11/4/09
Posts: 140
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Date: 9/11/10 3:31 PM

While waiting for a reply, I sewed up the yoke and attached the shoulder and side seams. It's so fitted in the waist, that it looks like I'm going to have to add a facing..that solves that problem.lol I figured I'll go ahead and make the facing longer and run it down into the skirt and do away with the zippered side.


BUT, I've hit another snaffu.
I'm 6'2", my upper bust is 40 and my bust is 45". I cut a size 18. I lowered the darts by 1 1/2" and added 1 1/2" to the the length. Besides not having enough fabric to fold over in the bust and waist, I have way too much fabric around my upper chest and neck. What is that all about? What am I doing wrong?

misschris
misschris
AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/3/06
Posts: 1567
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In reply to lulurose


Date: 9/11/10 7:36 PM

You're not doing anything wrong in regards to sewing up the pattern. But, it sounds like you need to do a full bust adjustment (FBA). Most women who are larger than a B cup (and some who aren't) need to alter the pattern for the fullness of their bust. Most of the big 4 (Vogue, McCall, Simplicity and Butterick) patterns are drafted for a B cup.

What you need to do is measure above your bust. Pull the tape measure so it's snug. Use this measurement as the bust measurement for pattern sizing. Then make an FBA on the pattern. There are several methods, the most popular on PR seems to be the Palmer/Pletsch method in Fit For Real People (FFRP) and Nancy Zieman's pivot and slide method.

What you're doing is using a pattern that fits your neck, shoulders and upper chest and altering to fit your bust.

It's also worthwhile making a muslin (a test with cheap fabric) before you use your good fabric.

------
chris

Melbourne

lulurose
lulurose
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Member since 11/4/09
Posts: 140
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Date: 9/12/10 10:26 AM

You're soo right!
I did need an FBA. I've been sewing long enough to know I would need one when sewing a fitted top, BUT I've also been avoiding fitted tops till I had the time to learn an FBA. It completely slipped my mind when opening this pattern, I'm stuck with learning an FBA now! lol

I found a tutorial for the P&F method.
And I have cut out one side of the top to experiment with. I have two issues.

One, I didn't add any length, because the tutorial said the FBA would add a bit. However it's not enough for my height. Can I add length now? Or do I need to go back add length, then redo the FBA.

Second, I was shocked at the FBA results. I want a demure shirtdress. My results are a bit more...well...KA POW! I would need a bullet bra to fill it out. I've only sewn the side dart, and I'm playing around with the length of the waist dart (this seems to help) but, the side dart is still so 'angular'. Is there any way to soften the effect?

Thank you so much for your help!

lulurose
lulurose
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Member since 11/4/09
Posts: 140
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Date: 9/12/10 2:53 PM

Well, I've been working at it most of the morning and things are getting worse. I'm on my third bodice piece.

First piece, straight from the butterick pattern.
Too much fabric around neck,
too short,
darts too high.

Second piece after P&F FBA (Just three slashes, arm to apex, apex through both darts.
darts still to high
too short.
The only thing corrected was the excess neck fabric, it straitened my CF.

Third piece. Lowered darts by 1" on the second fba adjusted pattern piece and added length.
Worst results yet!
darts STILL an inch too high
and I'm back at square one...too much fabric around my neck..aggggggg!!!

When I showed my husband, he said the first one fit the best. And even tho it really doesn't fit, it is the most flattering. It seems like the fba would fit if I was large breasted, but I'm not. High bust is 40 and bust is 45"...I think being tall and having a wide rib cage makes those measurements look like I need an fba, but I just don't have the goods to fill it out. Does that sense?

I'm getting frustrated and not sure what to try next. Any ideas?



misschris
misschris
AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/3/06
Posts: 1567
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In reply to lulurose


Date: 9/12/10 5:15 PM

I'm not sure how you ended up with too much fabric around the neck on the third muslin if all you did was added length and lowered the darts. How frustrating.

You're right about the FBA. It's not an alteration for everyone. You may be one of the people that has success adjusting the shoulders/neckline. (Standard fitting advice is buy the pattern to fit that area and alter to fit the rest). There are no rules. Do whatever works for you.

There is always the possibility that this particular pattern is not for you. It happens sometimes. You might find a similar design by a different company that works perfectly.

Can you post photos? Sometimes even seeing a photo of yourself can clarify some issues. And there are so many people here who can give great fitting advice, I'm sure you'll work this out.

------
chris

Melbourne

lulurose
lulurose
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Member since 11/4/09
Posts: 140
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Subject: I dont understand butterick 5315 Date: 9/12/10 7:57 PM

I took some photos, but I can't seem to get the lighting right...my darts don't show.
I'm thinking my second piece wasn't as well fitting as I first thought, after I added the length I had more fabric and could see the side seam better. Honestly, I have no clue how I made such a mess of this top.lol
The good news is I have Butterick fitting shell in my stash and I think now would be a good time to sort out my fitting issues.
I read through the direction and I'm thinking I have possible more then one issue, like a hollow chest and forward shoulders.

So, I'm going to forget this top for a few days...I'm sure to be back, just look for the 'fitting shell problem' thread.lol

Yakityak
star
Yakityak
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 8/16/03
Posts: 55
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Date: 9/12/10 10:47 PM

Do snap a photo, anyway. Even if we can't see the darts particularly well, the direction of pull wrinkles and puddling fabric can tell us a lot about what you need to do to get a good fit.

You might as well... you have 3 test garments made up.

Yak

------
Brevity is the soul of lingerie.
-Dorothy Parker
---------------------------
Sewing blog & free sewing patterns at my website:

Yakityak Talks Back
www.yakityak.com

lulurose
lulurose
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Member since 11/4/09
Posts: 140
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Date: 9/13/10 7:16 PM

Ok, got to warn you, it's not pretty.
I didn't sew three bodices. I remade the right side and basted it into the bodice.

Looking at the picture, the right side is from the first pattern (unaltered) and the left side is my third with FBA and darts lowered. I didn't take a photo of the second, but I can if needed.

I'm wondering if it's my waist measurement throwing things off?...going to go check.

lulurose
lulurose
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Member since 11/4/09
Posts: 140
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Date: 9/13/10 7:20 PM

Opps, forgot the photo. Link

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