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No wonder I couldn't get anything to fit!
Deb Fox
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Deb Fox
Intermediate
FL USA
Member since 8/26/05
Posts: 1214
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Date: 9/14/10 3:42 PM

For some reason this weekend I had an epiphany. I have had such a hard time choosing a pattern size for myself. If I go by my measurements, I'm a straight 18 petite with narrow shoulders, but that didn't work. Neither does a 16 with and FBA, etc. I had on a snug fitting T top, so I whipped out the tape measure and measured my front and back separately. I discovered I am a size 20 from side seam to side seam in the front, and a 14 in the back. Most of my size is in the front and I just widen out to a 20 as I move down. I took a size 18/20 pattern and did a narrow upper back adjustment, moving the entire back armhole over by 5/8. I also did a petite adjustment of 3/8 to bring the bust point up, and raised the underarm by 1/2 inch. That brought me to an almost perfect fit, with just a small 5/8 length adjustment to bring the waist up a bit. I did have to narrow the front shoulder, but just took my trusty french curve and redrew the armseye, front and back. I now have to figure out what size sleeve to use, but I think I may start with an 18 and figure out what to do from there. Since most sleeveheads have way too much ease, I may even go down to a 16. I think my first muslin will be a princess seamed McCall blouse pattern. I've tried it every possible size and just couldn't get anything that even remotely fit better that RTW, which doesn't fit at all!

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Deb: www.thinkingcouture.blogspot.com

frame
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frame
USA
Member since 2/19/04
Posts: 3181
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In reply to Deb Fox


Date: 9/14/10 4:00 PM

Good for You!! This is what it takes to get a good fit. You have to know your own body. I think people get all caught up in the numbers and how they are "supposed" to make adjustments and they forget that fitting books are just guidelines. Little helps to get us on our way. The key is to use the tools or "guidelines" and make them work for you. Whatever that is.

What an exciting moment for you.

------
"framed" was taken
"I meant what I said, and I said what I meant." - Horton(Dr. Seuss)

Margasweet

Margasweet  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
Member since 2/15/05
Posts: 806
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Subject: No wonder I couldnt get anything to fit! Date: 9/14/10 7:30 PM

Wonderful!! How did you figure out what the front & back sizes are--measured on the pattern pieces, or did you halve the listed measurements? I'm thinking this might help me, also, and I'm hoping you'll share how you came up with the front & back sizes.

Thanks.
Marguerite

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2007 fabric in: 7 1/2 yards; sewn: 7 yds
2008 fabric in, 23 yards; sewn 20 yds; given away 6 yds
2009 fabric in 41 1/4 yds, sewn 29 yds, given away 22 1/2 yds
2010 fabric in 91 1/2 yds, sewn 27 yds, given away 1 1/2 yds;
2011 fabric in: 55 yd.; sewn: 21 yd; given away: 20 yd
2012 fabric in: 60 1/4 yd., sewn 25 1/4 yds, given away 16 yds, thrown away 3 yds scraps; UFOs completed: 7
2013 fabric in: 28 yds; sewn: 25.7 yds.; given away: 5 1/2 yd.s; projects 8, UFOs 4

2014 fabric in: 34.5 yd
2014 fabric sewn: 8 1/2 yd
2014 fabric given away: 8 1/2 yd
2014 projects completed: striped maxi skirt
2014 projects started:
2014 UFOs completed: 8 (5 small gift bags, pieced & quilted table runner, maxi dress, silk infinity scarf)

AnneM
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AnneM  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MA USA
Member since 7/30/02
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Subject: No wonder I couldnt get anything to fit! Date: 9/14/10 7:31 PM

Congratulations! That is a wonderful discovery for you. I bet it will inspire some others to think 'outside the pattern sizing charts' as well.

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With a great wardrobe that's still in the flat-fabric stage.

MNBarb
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MNBarb  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MN USA
Member since 4/3/10
Posts: 1540
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Date: 9/14/10 8:19 PM

Yay! Fitting is the challenge. After reading this I wonder if I have just the opposite problem, little in front wider in back. I'm going to measure next time I make a top. Thanks!

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Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

Lynnelle
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Lynnelle  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MI USA
Member since 4/8/07
Posts: 2487
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In reply to Deb Fox


Date: 9/14/10 9:16 PM

I've known this about myself for a while and have had mixed results. Your post encourages me to try again.

Recently, my friend Therisa helped me to fit a woven blouse. I have yet to sew up the most recent changes, though. I want to tell you that doing a full bicep adjustment helped to relieve some of the pulling I always seem to get near the armhole. It appears as if the sleeve was borrowing fabric to fit around my bicep.

I look forward to your updates.

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 7936
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In reply to Deb Fox


Date: 9/14/10 10:02 PM

How did you measure yourself separately? Did you wrap the tape around as one would normally do and then look to see what number it was on your side seams? How do you know your sideseams were straight? I'm so curious, as I've been wanting to do this for some time.

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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
My blog: http://auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com/

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 8/28/08
Posts: 3021
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In reply to Miss Fairchild


Date: 9/15/10 2:14 AM

Nature has given us a center front and a center back marking. I always also wanted some side seam and shoulders indications.

I know I have a broad back and have to add for it. So far I have used a bodice which has the side seam dividing the body properly (even if the garment is a little tight---should still work). Then carefully lift the top and put a removeable mark where the seam is and that should be a divider.

The only other thing I've done is to make the back larger, then pin it out a little at a time until I know that I cannot make it any smaller.

Neither of these methods is fullproof and I also would like to know an easier way.

------
That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

Vibekeinyork
Vibekeinyork
Intermediate
Member since 7/11/06
Posts: 848
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In reply to Deb Fox


Date: 9/15/10 2:35 AM

That is wonderful and good on you for thinking outside the box (pattern size charts).

no7262
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no7262
Beginner
NJ USA
Member since 6/5/09
Posts: 1342
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In reply to Deb Fox


Date: 9/15/10 7:11 AM

Deb,

That is so wonderful! I can't wait to see your first garment! Congrat's on figuring this out!

Nora :)

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Nora :)

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