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Forum > Beginner's Forum > help needed bwof pattern ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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help needed bwof pattern
need help interpreting an instruction in BWOF pattern
jennybaxt
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jennybaxt
AUSTRALIA
Member since 11/8/07
Posts: 12
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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Date: 9/22/10 8:37 AM

I am hoping someone can help me with one part of a bwof (burda magazine) coat pattern. It is 03-2009-115. I am having trouble working out exactly how I am supposed to attach the sleeve turn-ups. I have not made a coat before and cannot work out how this is supposed to work.

"Stitch ends of each sleeve turn-up piece together to form rounds. Stitch turn-ups onto lower edges of sleeves. Press seam allowances onto turn-ups. (I think I'm OK to here.) Lay turn-ups half to inside and press. Lay inside edges flat over joining seam, without turning in (what does without turning in mean?), and baste. Work from right side of garment to topstitch turn-ups close to joining seam. Fold turn-ups up 6cm wide and press. Topstitch close to upper edges of turn-ups."

Can anyone help, or direct me to a tutorial that might help me?

RoseFromThule
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RoseFromThule
FRANCE
Member since 3/3/10
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In reply to jennybaxt


Date: 9/22/10 9:03 AM

OK, my translation (which you should take with a huge pinch of salt !)

"Lay turn-ups half to inside and press." ==> Fold the turn-up half lengthwise by putting the lower edge along the "joining seam" (the seam that join sleeve and turn-up). Press.

"Lay inside edges flat over joining seam, without turning in (what does without turning in mean?), and baste." ==> Don't tuck in the raw edge of the turn up, as you would do for a hem for instance. Instead, leave it flat and baste it so that it stays put along the joining seam. And, I think they want you to use it to encase the joining seam SA as well.

"Work from right side of garment to topstitch turn-ups close to joining seam" ==> Put on top what will be the right side of the sleeve/turnup, and top stitch near the joining seam on the turn-up side, catching the turn-up raw edge.

"Fold turn-ups up 6cm wide and press." ==> Fold up the turn-ups on the sleeves until they appear 6 cm wide from the outside. Press.

"Topstitch close to upper edges of turn-ups" ==> Well, topstitch turn ups at their upper edge :)
-- Edited on 9/22/10 9:05 AM --

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Vintage Joan
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Vintage Joan
Ontario Canada
Member since 7/16/07
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In reply to RoseFromThule


Date: 9/22/10 9:40 AM

Just to add a little North American translation of the translation for people who might not know -- turn-ups = cuffs (e.g. the kind on pants).



-- Edited on 9/22/10 9:41 AM --

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"When you hear a man talk in agony, remember he is hurt. Be patient and reverent with what you don't understand." ~ Oswald Chambers (1874-1917)

marymary86
marymary86
Georgia USA
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In reply to Vintage Joan


Date: 9/22/10 9:41 AM

I was wondering what turn-ups were! Thanks!

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Mary


nicegirl
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nicegirl
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Date: 9/22/10 9:54 AM

Sounds like Rose has it.

Completely assemble the sleeves and the turn-ups.

Match the lower edge of the sleeve with the edge of the turn-up, right sides together, stitch.

Press the joining seam down toward the turn-ups.

Fold the turn-ups in half toward the inside (there is probably a marked fold line). Overlap the seam allowance on the remaining turn-up edge over your previous stitching line, encasing the pressed-down sleeve/turn-up seam allowance. I would advise you to finish that raw edge, as it will remain exposed in the finished coat. (I think that is what is tripping you up--it's weird to have an exposed edge in a coat; I'm guessing this seam would be too bulky unless you are using a lightweight gabardine or something.)

Pin the seam allowance in place from the outside, ensuring that it overlaps the previous seam at all pins. From the outside, stitch in the ditch or stitch just above your previous stitching line, catching that pinned over seam allowance, encasing the previous seam.

Fold turn-ups as they will be worn and press the fold in place.

I'm not sure what the final topstitching step is, honestly. I don't know if you're supposed to stitch the joining line again (makes no sense, especially given the order in which it's placed, after you've pressed the fold in place) but that's what "upper edge" seems to be getting at. It could also mean the folded upturned edge.

------
http://theslapdashsewist.blogspot.com
=================
2007: purchased 115+, sewed 105+
So close to parity, yet so far

Trying again in 2008
Yards purchased: 133
Yards sewn: Somewhere around 95

2009? I give up

RoseFromThule
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RoseFromThule
FRANCE
Member since 3/3/10
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In reply to nicegirl


Date: 9/22/10 11:17 AM

My guess is that the "upper edge" is the turn-up/cuff upturned edge, that is up the sleeve at the end. It's probably topstitched in place.

I think that the raw edge of the turn-up is supposed to be folded to the joining seam on the outside of the sleeves, then, when the turn-ups are, well, upturned, it'll be enclosed and won't show. That may be why Burda don't say anything about finishing this edge.

Edit - I reread the instructions, and they do tell "to the inside". I'm puzzled ...
-- Edited on 9/22/10 11:18 AM --
-- Edited on 9/22/10 11:20 AM --

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jennybaxt
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jennybaxt
AUSTRALIA
Member since 11/8/07
Posts: 12
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Date: 9/22/10 4:35 PM

Thank you everyone - especially for such detailed and thoughtful replies. You are right in that I am getting stuck on why there seems to be a raw edge left after all this. I will try again with the laptop and your suggestions close by.

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