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Wedding gown in 2005
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Georgene
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Georgene
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California USA
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Date: 12/31/04 12:11 PM

I have a commitment to make a wedding gown for a family friend, the date is in July 2005. I'm starting out with Vogue 2803 as my base pattern and will add detail. I haven't done much in the way of 'traditional' gowns, and nothing with this sort of structure since I got out of couture draping school in Paris, oh, about a hundred years ago.

I can do the muslin and the fitting, no problem. I can cut it and underline it with silk organza. I have bought Susan Khalje's 'Bridal Couture' to remind me of all the stuff that I already know.

My misgivings are more along the lines of having to work in so much satin. I'm assuming that this is going to end up in duchesse satin. Does anyone have any suggestions for fabric and resources to buy it? I can get over to Thai Silks and look at their fabrics, and have done so several times. I have also seen the rayon backed version of duchesse satin at Mood Fabrics and not been terribly impressed.

Then there's sewing all those loooong seams in that fabric, and I am terrified of puckering on the seams. Anyone have any tricks?

My intention is to add an all-over lace over-bodice with swagged skirt similar to the Retro/Fit Ava dress View B. Forget the drape on th top of the bodice in the Retro/Fit or the Vogue, I'll figure out some other, simpler finish for the top edge.

So any thoughts, hints, clues, ideas? I would love to hear from those who have more experience than I do with this sort of thing.

AnneM
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AnneM  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/31/04 12:26 PM

None what-so-ever. But I know it will come out great. Can't wait to see what create.

------
With a great wardrobe that's still in the flat-fabric stage.

GorgeousFabrics
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GorgeousFabrics
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Date: 12/31/04 12:30 PM

Georgene, you might also try contacting Angus Silks in Hong Kong. They have beautiful duchesse satin. I haven't bought from him recently, but his prices were always good. I agree about the rayon-backed duchesse - I was less than impressed with it when I saw it. If you are planning to underline everything anyway, have you thought about using taffeta?


Regarding the puckering, do you have a Pfaff? I thought I saw the IDT foot in a picture you took. If so, you won't have much problem with puckering seams. If not, a walking foot will probably help. also, my experience with duchesse satin and with taffeta, for that matter, is that they are reasonably ripple-resistant on long seams. I just take lots of extra care with making sure the grain lines are all in alignment.

-Ann
-- Edited on 12/31/04 1:33 PM --

Georgene
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Georgene
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California USA
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Date: 12/31/04 1:04 PM

Yes, I have a Pfaff with the dual feed, although it is not a 'fancy' machine. Thanks for the fabric resource Ann, I will definately see what their duchesse satin is like. I personally don't care for taffeta, too noisy for my taste. I'm going to have to work on my bride to go for the lace overlay, she wants simple, simple, simple. Sometimes the cleanest and most simple gowns are the most difficult, as every little flaw in fabrication will show. Give me silk chiffon bias with baby hems anyday over this kind of thing!

els
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els
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In reply to Georgene


Date: 12/31/04 2:00 PM


Hi Georgene I also have a Pfaff with dual feed function but I use AlterFil®S Sewing Thread for Pucker-free Seams.
This is a great thread to work with if you want to sew fine fabrics I really can recommend this.
I do not know if you can buy this thread in the US, if not and you want a reel of this amazing thread I can sent you one, just let me know what color you need or you can sent me a swatch of the fabric.
The brides dress is lovely I like clearing lines so elegant, hoping you can find the right fabric and lace.
Remember rough hands and satin like fabrics are not a good match.
You can read about
AlterFil®S Sewing Thread for Pucker-free Seams
-- Edited on 12/31/04 3:02 PM --

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http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/

Marrs
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Date: 12/31/04 2:25 PM

The only thing that immediatly came to mind was all that white! I would be trying to figure out how to keep it white. I would probably be looking at white sheets on the floor wherever the fabric might touch. I would also be looking carefully at my pressing surfaces for potential problems too.

GorgeousFabrics
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GorgeousFabrics
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Date: 12/31/04 5:21 PM

Gerogene, I am also reminded of a tip I have used. Install a hook in the ceiling of your sewing area, above and to the left of the sewing machine. Then you can hang the dress on a hanger above you, which will keep the bulk and weight of the fabric off the sewing table (and off the floor) while you are sewing. You might want to hang a doubled cord with knots in it at 4-6 inch intervals from the hook so you can change the height of the hanger as needed.

HTH
Ann
-- Edited on 12/31/04 6:22 PM --

LiZ
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LiZ  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/31/04 5:48 PM

Georgene,
I like that pattern. I have made 2 wedding gowns in duchesse satin and have had no trouble with the seams puckering. I always use a microtex needle when sewing these types of fabric and I used molnlycke thread which I find to be slightly finer and smoother than guttermann thread.
For my DDs wedding dress I overlaid the bodice and made the sleeves with embroidered organza. The skirt was also trimmed with it. I used a seam roll about 24 inches long which cut down on amount of fabric handling. It is made from large fabric bolt and muslin rolled onto it.
Hope that this all goes well for you and that you enjoy doing it.
Liz

Georgene
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Georgene
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California USA
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Date: 12/31/04 5:48 PM

Thanks, Els, for your tip about the hi-tech thread. I have to see whether we end up with white or ivory satin, but would love to try that.

Ann, I have a pole on the left side of the machine that I could hang a hook from, and use your method. Thanks for reminding me. I remember you wrote a tip about that. The double cord with knots for varying heights is good also. I couldn't put a hook in the ceiling, but using that pole can definately work.

For the big poofty petticoat that is smooth on top and full of tulle ruffles underneath: should I attempt to make that or whould we buy it? Anyone have a good source for that? I should probably advise her to buy a long-line strapless corset as well, and soon, since we need to fit with the undergarments.

To complicate matters, my bride lives in St.Petersburg Russia, and I have to fit the muslin in the second week of January, and then don't see her again until May! I have done several 'long-distance' wedding gowns, but never a big structured thing like this. So I kinda need the petticoat and the strapless corset real soon now, in ordert to do the closest fitting possible.

Georgene
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Georgene
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California USA
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Posts: 2292
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Date: 12/31/04 5:51 PM

Knitter, how do you use that seam roll? I'm not sure I can visualize that. How does it cut down on fabric handling? I bought an entire 50 yd bolt of muslin, so I have lots to work with! I got tired of scrimping in the muslin department, and knew I was going to need it for this project.

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