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Forum > Fitting Woes > Hot Patterns Princess shirt ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Hot Patterns Princess shirt
Heeeeeelp!
KatieA

KatieA
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UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 5/30/05
Posts: 371
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Date: 10/3/10 12:28 PM

OK how do I fix this???

I have done the collar wrong but basically this is HUGE and more like a jacket!
This fabric wasn't tooo expensive but I really wanted to wear this, not just do a muslin.

I did not know that I should choose HP sizes by my FB size so I chose by my upper bust, which is 36", making it size 10. But, probably foolishly, I decided I wanted more ease, so I did adjustments as if I was using size 10 but cut round size 12.

I did the folllowing adjustments:
Bust 6" at front
Sleeve width 2" (giving even more ease at the sleeve cap, which others have complained about)
Waist 3" (almost all of which was accomplished with the FBA)

Then, I looked at the cross-back measurement and worked out that I needed 6" there. As that's not really possible to do across the back, I did 3".

so...

It looks like I'll have to redo the collar anyway.

I don't feel that the upper back looks or feels massively too large.
The sleeves are comfortable but I'd be happy with them a bit tighter.

I have no CLUE what to do about the front!

I have not done a princess seam FBA before and I used the one from FFRP.

I am a bit confused about the suggestion that you cut the pattern according to your full bust, though, as the shoulders on this (the 12) are OK or roomy in this, non-stretchy woven fabric, so if I cut according to my full bust, I would look like a linebacker.

(Incidentally the shiny bits are on the mirror, I think)






-- Edited on 10/3/10 12:36 PM --
-- Edited on 3/2/11 11:25 AM --

frame
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frame
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Date: 10/3/10 2:06 PM

I have not used any HotPatterns patterns, so I cannot speak to the fit of them in general.

As a start, I believe your front darts (the vertical ones) are too high. They should end at least 1 inch below the highest point of your bust. Personally, I think the bust area looks too big, but only you know that for sure.

ETA: I just noticed they are not darts, but a princess seam. And I still think the bust area looks too big.

My reply should bump this up for awhile and usually someone comes along and offers a better response.

Good luck.
-- Edited on 10/3/10 2:07 PM --

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"framed" was taken
"I meant what I said, and I said what I meant." - Horton(Dr. Seuss)

RockNRoll
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RockNRoll
Tennessee USA
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Date: 10/3/10 2:17 PM

i think the shirt is too big, maybe you should go down a size or a half of a size. But thats up to you and how tight or loose you want it.

------
Go Sew Something

Michelle L
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Michelle L
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Missouri USA
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In reply to KatieA


Date: 10/3/10 5:55 PM

For help with the collar, check this thread here: Hot Patterns Notched Collar

This will help you get the collar together properly.

Also, I am a DDD cup and never do FBAs on Hot Patterns, I just choose by my full bust measurement. I usually use either a 16 or 18.

------
Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/

KimB

KimB
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California USA
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Date: 10/3/10 6:03 PM

To make this wearable, I would just pin the excess out along the front princess seams, taking out the extra fullness over the bust. I think the top has too much bust shaping, so it's cupping over the bust. Fortunately, that's easy to fix with a shoulder princess seam - you just take it in right over the bust point. If it's still too big overall, take it in along the side seams. The fit probably won't be perfect, but I think it will be very wearable.

KatieA

KatieA
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UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 5/30/05
Posts: 371
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Date: 10/4/10 4:20 AM

Although I do know I must redo the collar, I'm hoping KimB's suggestion is right - it IS far too big over the bust, and then I will try the side seams next.

I am really wary of cutting by full bust measurement, though - I am an F cup (UK size, I think it may be E in the US). I have 6" between full bust and high bust which seems a lot - and the shoulders would be huge if I cut a 16, say, wouldn't they?

(plus, I've cut the pattern now, so I'd have to buy another one, pay overseas postage etc. etc...)

Lynnelle
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Lynnelle  Friend of PR
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Michigan USA
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In reply to KatieA


Date: 10/4/10 7:15 AM

You don't have to cut the same size everywhere. I am an F cup (US) and cut a size 16 in the bust area and a size 14 in the neckline and shoulders. I needed a tiny bit of width at the bustline. Other than that, the fit was quite good.

The collar and sleeves, however, were a hot mess. After many tries, I finally got the collar on correctly. I am still working on the sleeves. Do check out the link Michelle posted. Michellep74 posted fabulous step-by-step pictures of and instructions on how to attach the collar. Other members chimed in with valuable information as well.

Edited to add:
Take your measurements again. HPs are drafted for larger cups, so you may be able to get away with a smaller size.

L


-- Edited on 10/4/10 7:15 AM --

KimB

KimB
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In reply to KatieA


Date: 10/4/10 8:28 PM

The beauty of a shoulder princess design is that you can also take in the shoulder area along the princess seam. It really is one of the best styles for fitting because, as long as you have enough room, you can make most any adjustment without having to re-cut your pieces. As far as selecting a size, the method I find most reliable is to hold the pieces up to my body to check the upper chest width before I select a size. You may very well use different sizes in different patterns/styles.

KatieA

KatieA
Advanced Beginner
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 5/30/05
Posts: 371
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Date: 10/9/10 11:43 AM

I have to say that if I tissue fit a pattern, it has to be really waaaaay out before I will notice. I try to measure the pattern circumference and compare to what I want, but in a pattern like this one with almost no markings, it's hard to tell where you are supposed to be measuring...

KatieA

KatieA
Advanced Beginner
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 5/30/05
Posts: 371
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In reply to KimB


Date: 3/12/11 1:40 PM

Quote: KimB
To make this wearable, I would just pin the excess out along the front princess seams, taking out the extra fullness over the bust. I think the top has too much bust shaping, so it's cupping over the bust. Fortunately, that's easy to fix with a shoulder princess seam - you just take it in right over the bust point. If it's still too big overall, take it in along the side seams. The fit probably won't be perfect, but I think it will be very wearable.

OK, I have finally got back to this and attempted to go with this suggestion.

I just drew a new line with about an inch of extra seam allowance at the bust point, tapering to shoulder and hem. I have just pin fitted it so far but it looks weird.

The side front piece looks enormous and the centre front piece looks very small - so it looks like my bust points are migrating to the centre!

I also tried taking it in by just reducing the size of the side front piece - which means you reduce the length of the centre front piece but that is not an issue. That also looks weird.

Anyone got any other suggestions? This seems really odd to me as I know I can alter RTW that's too big in the bust by basically adding a princess seam or making the existing seam bigger - which is what I tried to do - so no idea why this is happening.

Heeeeelp!
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