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Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Coat interlining, what to attach it to ? ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Coat interlining, what to attach it to ?
Lining or main fabric ?
VeroSewsStuff
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VeroSewsStuff
Intermediate
FRANCE
Member since 11/12/09
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Date: 11/8/10 3:04 AM

I'll be making a coat soon and want to interline it to add warmth.
I haven't find clear instructions as to what I should attach it to.

I've found few sparse instructions but some say to attach it to the lining and others to the main fabric.

What would you do ? And why one over the other ?

Thanks !

ETA : The main fabric I'm using is corduroy, the lining is an embroidered poly heavier that regular lining (Chinese style). The interlining I'll be using is This.
-- Edited on 11/8/10 3:38 AM --

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Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to VeroSewsStuff


Date: 11/8/10 4:31 PM

I use the lining pattern pieces and attach the interlining to the lining to reduce the thickness at seams. It's not necessary to put it where you are going to face if your fabric is warm as you already have a double layer of outer fabric at the cf. You don't need it in the collar or back neck facing because those areas do not contribute to warmth and it would really be thick at the seams. However, if you are using a fabric that is not warm to begin with (corduroy)you may prefer to use your interling to underline the outer fabric. I wouldn't put it in the collar or the facings. Cut it even with the hemline so that the hem comes up over it and you aren't folding the interlining. Trim it close to the stitching after basting it to the outer fabric.

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nicegirl
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nicegirl
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Date: 11/8/10 4:51 PM

I am not a technically knowledgeable tailor. But when I interlined a coat I made a shell out of fleece constructed entirely separately, and hand tacked it at shoulders, center back neck, underarm, near the sleeve hem, and the side and CB seams at the waist. Although it adds overall bulk to the coat (which was the point!) it didn't make any of the seams more bulky.

On the other hand, I am working on a coat now and used a very thin poly print as a lining. For added warmth, I underlined the lining with a heavier silk/rayon, treating the lining and underlining as one in all places.

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Trying again in 2008
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VeroSewsStuff
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VeroSewsStuff
Intermediate
FRANCE
Member since 11/12/09
Posts: 64
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Date: 11/9/10 11:21 AM

Thank you both !
Both your techniques (attach to lining / separate shell) to eliminate bulk at the seams sound great!

I'll probably go with the interlining attached to the lining.
I'm in the south of France, our winters are not that bad so it should be fine even if I'm using corduroy.
If that assumption turns out to be wrong, I'll just sew another one : I love making coats

Encore merci !
-- Edited on 11/9/10 11:22 AM --

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Blog in English : http://www.couturestuff.com
Bog in French : http://www.couturestuff.fr

Nancy K
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In reply to VeroSewsStuff


Date: 11/9/10 11:38 AM

I'd think that cotton flannel is perfect for your climate.

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VeroSewsStuff
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VeroSewsStuff
Intermediate
FRANCE
Member since 11/12/09
Posts: 64
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Date: 11/10/10 3:26 AM

I'll definitely try cotton flannel for my next coat, thank you !

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Blog in English : http://www.couturestuff.com
Bog in French : http://www.couturestuff.fr

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