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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > A waistband with "give"

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A waistband with "give"
How to create a waistband with some give that doesn't stretch out of shape?
JessieBear
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JessieBear
Intermediate
IL USA
Member since 11/19/07
Posts: 40
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Date: 12/7/10 11:27 PM

I'm working on some close-fitting trousers - Burda 08-2008-120. Burda calls them "riding breeches." Here is a link to other reviews of these trousers. They are made out of a stretch twill and have gone together very well. The waistband is contoured and sits pretty much at my waist. With the stretch twill, these pants would be very comfortable, except for the waistband. I interfaced it with a lightweight knit iron-on, cut on the cross-grain for more stability. I figured I didn't want it to stretch out, but it also doesn't have a lot of "give" which brings the comfort-factor down.

Does anyone have tips for making a waistband that is more comfortable? I'd love the feel of a jeans-style waistband that has some stretch to it - it would make it so much easier to move in, especially with such a high waistband.

Not interfacing it would give it more stretch, but I'm guessing you're going to tell me not to do that because it will stretch out TOO much...Thoughts? Is there a solution?

Thanks!

Michelle T

Michelle T
Intermediate
BC CANADA
Member since 8/24/02
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In reply to JessieBear


Date: 12/8/10 1:36 AM

I have two pair of rtw slacks that have elastic instead of interfacing at the waist. It is cut to the same size as the unstretched waistband.

The finishing on each is different, but both pairs are very very comfortable. They have just enough give, but do not stretch out, nor do they give the look of an elastic waistband.

------
Proud parent of a Dwight International School Honour Roll Student

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to JessieBear


Date: 12/8/10 8:30 AM

Sandra Betzina has a very good tailored waistband that uses elastic as the interfacing. On it doesn't look like an elastic band, but it has enough give to be comfortable.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

JessieBear
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JessieBear
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IL USA
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Date: 12/8/10 11:09 AM

Thanks for the tips! Are the waistbands that both of you are seeing cut straight or contoured?

I have Betzina's Power Sewing where she gives instructions for making a waistband that has elastic in the back. Is that the waistband you're talking about? You're right, it doesn't look like an elasticized waistband! However, her waistband it cut straight. Any idea if this would work on a contoured waistband?

MNBarb
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MNBarb  Friend of PR
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MN USA
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Date: 12/8/10 12:37 PM

Debbie Cook has this tutorial. I'm not sure if it works for contoured WB.

http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com/2001/04/techniques-flat-elastic-when-wearing.html
Sorry I can't do a link on my work computer. You'll have to cut and paste.

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

Michelle T

Michelle T
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In reply to JessieBear


Date: 12/8/10 2:59 PM

One of my pair of rtw has a straight waistband.

The other was just folded over at the waist, so I guess you would call it a cut on waistband.

Thinking about it a bit further I have two pants and a skirt with a contour waist band. You can see the pants here Reitmans Canada.

These are designed to be pull on, no zipper, but do not look at all like elastic waist pants or skirts.

------
Proud parent of a Dwight International School Honour Roll Student

TanitIsis
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TanitIsis
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Date: 12/10/10 10:00 PM

That's an interesting idea. I've gone back and forth on this myself making my stretch jeans (all with contoured waistbands)---my first pair wasn't interfaced, and I could probably pull them off without unbuttoning. The second pair was lightly interfaced with a non-woven that I'm pretty sure has largely self-destructed by now, but it's actually close to my favourite. The more recent ones I've done a very firm waistband, which is nice when on but I find a bit tricky sewing in place as the pants fabric has to be stretched slightly when sewing to the waistband. I keep meaning to hack up an old RTW pair to see what's inside, but haven't tried it yet.

I have noticed that the stretch denims I buy at the fabric store tend to have more stretch than my RTW stretch denim.

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to JessieBear


Date: 12/11/10 9:00 PM

SB's directions are for a straight waistband, and no not an elastic back. I learned it in one of her earlier books and I don't remember if it is in Power sewing.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Rhoda K
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Rhoda K  Friend of PR
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AL USA
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In reply to JessieBear


Date: 12/11/10 11:25 PM

After reading this thread and seeing Nancy K's comment, I checked Sandra's books and the waistband treatment Nancy K is referring to is in SB's No Time To Sew book. She has three different sections on waistbands w/elastic and it's the last one on pp 154-158. I had been wanting to do this myself and glad I found this thread. Thank you Nancy. Good luck JessieBear.
-- Edited on 12/11/10 11:26 PM --

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