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Forum > Fitting Woes > Shoulder seam falling back off shoulders and side seam swinging forward ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Shoulder seam falling back off shoulders and side seam swinging forward
How do I alter my muslin?
amysayssew
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amysayssew
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Date: 12/13/10 9:32 AM

I'm participating in Gerteis' Colette Crepe sew-along. I quickly attempted to pin fit my muslin last night and have run into an issue with the shoulders and side seams.

The shoulder seam falls too far back, which you can see in this photo of the unaltered muslin: Side View - Unaltered Muslin

And the side seam swings forward. I attempted to pin fit the shoulders but haven't been able to do a very good job and am not sure where I should be pinning.

I've also taken a tuck across the bust, back and at the side seams.

You can see my before and after pics here: Before and After Photos

I'm planning to work on this tonight, but of course, I can't stop thinking about it now.

When I tried to make a dress previously (one without sleeves or a shoulder seam - it had straps), the side seam also tilted forward, and I *think* it has something to do with the shoulder.

Can you help? How should I tuck the muslin?

Thanks!

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JTink
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JTink
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In reply to amysayssew


Date: 12/13/10 1:44 PM

Do you have Fit for Real People? This book is a must have. I've been sewing for over 35 years and refer to it all the time. According to one of the fixes in FFRP, you could make a tuck across the back(as in Swayback adjustment)and this might bring the seam where it needs to be. You might also try bringing those shoulder seams forward a bit. Keep us posted on the progress.

amysayssew
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amysayssew
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In reply to JTink


Date: 12/13/10 2:36 PM

I do have FFRP. I read most of it last night. I was thinking that I might have a high round back (although it's difficult to tell since there is no neck seam in the back) and was wondering if I did an adjustment for that if it would bring the side seam into place.

In RTW, my garments do tend to pool in the hollow of my back, so maybe I do need a swayback adjustment.

My main challenge is in making these adjustments to the muslin. FFRP illustrates the adjustments on a flat pattern, so I'm not sure where to pin. Although Gertie is beginning by having us alter the muslin and then transfer the alterations to the pattern, I'm thinking that I might start altering the pattern first and then make up a new muslin.

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dfr2010
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dfr2010  Friend of PR
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In reply to amysayssew


Date: 12/13/10 3:13 PM

I encountered the forward shoulder problem on my friend while fitting his doublet and just grabbed a sharpie and marked up the mockup. Then I cut a triangular wedge to bring the seam to the shoulder point ("X" marks the spot on the first one) and it worked for him. There's also marks on the first mockup for narrow shoulders, a bit of a narrow chest, and a beer belly ...

Probably not the best way, but it did work.

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I don't really make mistakes ... I create "learning opportunities"! Murphy says: The better you match the thread to the fabric, the more likely you will need to rip some stitches out! I spend more quality time with my seamripper than I like ...
Yes, I DO love fabric!!
Happy owner of a band of Brothers: LX-3125, CS-770, CE5500 PRW, a PE-770 emb ... and now Kenmore 158.18032 and 148.12190
Blogging my "learning opportunites" at http://sewingmissadventure.blogspot.com/

Debbie Lancaster
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Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/13/10 3:28 PM

Could we get a photo of you in a leotard or tight-fitting camisole? It's hard to tell what's going on in the back, but it looks like it's way too big all over. You might need a smaller size there. I know, you're already using size 0.

You have what P&P refer to as a forward neck (or head), I think, which explains part of what's happening with the shoulder line.

ETA: Actually, a side photo of the un-dressed tape dummy would do to let us know what your shape is back there.
-- Edited on 12/13/10 3:29 PM --

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Debbie

skae
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Date: 12/13/10 8:04 PM





now we can see all.

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Ecclesiastes 11:7,8 Nothing on earth is more beautiful than the morning sun. Even if you live to a ripe old age, you should try to enjoy each day, because darkness will come and will last a long time. (CEV)

Dzynurbrian

Dzynurbrian
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Date: 12/13/10 9:23 PM

I agree that the bodice looks a bit big all over.

It almost looks to me as if the pattern requires back waist darts but they haven't been sewn. If that were the case, I think the side seams would fall back where they belong.

Also you may be creating tension because the back looks like a wrap style. That could be what is pulling back the shoulder seams.

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~Dzynurbrian~

http://web.me.com/dzynurbrian/Dzynurbrian/Welcome.html

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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Date: 12/13/10 9:49 PM

I agree with Debbie that you have a forward neck and a sway back. Fitting from the top down, fix the forward neck which is making the shoulder seam look like it's the problem. The shoulder seam appears to be too far back, but it's lined up over your arm. The side seam will probably move back with the sway back adjustment.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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Date: 12/13/10 9:51 PM

double post
-- Edited on 12/13/10 9:51 PM --

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

amysayssew
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amysayssew
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Date: 12/14/10 8:42 AM

Last night, I put the muslin aside and started altering the pattern, using FFRP as a guide. I ended up making a small bust adjustment, narrowing the dart in the waist so that the pattern's center front met mine in the waist and taking a vertical tuck in the back.

Here is what I have so far:





I should probably re-do the tuck in back since it doesn't look like it's straight.

The side seam looks like it's where it should be now. Should I still do the forward shoulder and sway back adjustment? The sway back adjustment should be made on both the bodice and the skirt piece, right?

Thanks so much for all of your help. I really want to get this right.
-- Edited on 12/14/10 11:29 AM --

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Buffalo Modern Sewing Group: http://bit.ly/buffalomodernsewing

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