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Message Board > Fitting Woes > FBA and neck gap ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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FBA and neck gap
How do I eliminate the gap on a deep V neck while doing a FBA
VivianZ

VivianZ  Friend of PR
Intermediate
LA USA
Member since 12/8/04
Posts: 425
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Date: 12/23/10 3:00 PM

I am making a formal mother of the groom dress for my son's wedding in March. And would like to make the top look like Simplicity 2648, and combine it with a long skirt such as Simplicity 2338. I love all of 2338 except the empire waist, but with a 32DD bust, I know extra fabric for the collar and a wrap style top probably won't be great. I like the deep V neck on the 2648, but always have a gap at the neck when I alter a V neck with a FBA. How do I eliminate this gap. I have looked all over and can't find the answer. Help!

JTink
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JTink
Intermediate
VA USA
Member since 4/20/08
Posts: 5718
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In reply to VivianZ


Date: 12/23/10 6:26 PM

Congratulations, I'm going to be "mother of the goom" in May ;-) If the gap you are talking about happens between your shoulder and bust, just fold out the amount you need on the pattern piece. I would make a muslin, (don't forget to attach a skirt to weigh down the bodice). Pin out the extra material starting at the neck edge. When transferring to the pattern piece, I would mark the amount needed at the neck edge(example: one inch) between the two marks, I would slice across the bodice leaving a hinge at the armhole. Fold over at the neck, taking out the extra. True up the neck edge. If you need to take the fullness out all the way across, just make a fold, no need to cut. If there is a lot of extra material at the neck edge,(say more than an inch or inch and a half) you might want to start with a smaller size in the neck area. I hope this makes sense. I'm not very clear with explainations

Lynnelle
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Lynnelle  Friend of PR
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MI USA
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In reply to VivianZ


Date: 12/24/10 9:04 AM

Fold out the fullness on the pattern and true the seamline.

Longarm

Longarm
Intermediate
USA
Member since 6/27/06
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Date: 12/30/10 11:36 PM

Since you are making a dress for a formal occasion, I would suggest it's worth the price in the results you will get, to invest in a basic fitting book that has lots of line drawings and tutorial on how to adjust patterns. You could be dealing with round shoulders, concave upper chest (this is independant of breast size) (but if your mom was always telling you to straigten up raise your chest you perhaps need the same pattern adjustment as I usually do.) Or the pattern may be too big overall, or you may be too short from waist to shoulder to fit the pattern. The books have good show and tell. I'm away from home now, but I think mine is called Fit for Every Body or something like that. Maybe someone else can jump in. We want you to look stunning at the wedding!!!

VivianZ

VivianZ  Friend of PR
Intermediate
LA USA
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Posts: 425
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In reply to Longarm


Date: 12/31/10 12:04 PM

Thanks for the advice. At Amazon.com I have found two books, Fantastic Fit for Everybody by Gail Hazan and Fabulous Fit by Jean Rasband. They both seem pretty good. I will see if our library has either. Then head to Barnes and Noble.

VivianZ

VivianZ

VivianZ  Friend of PR
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LA USA
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In reply to JTink


Date: 12/31/10 12:08 PM

Thanks so much. I am sorry I haven't responded sooner, but I had the wrong notification setting, and wasn't aware there was an answer. This helps me so much. I am trying the one with the collar, Simplicity 2338. Once I read your email, I felt better about diving in. This makes perfect sense to me. The pattern has a collar and a false surplice look. It is empire waist, but I am lengthening the top and putting the seam at the waist. After the collar is attached, to the V-neck the facing is sewn on. I was wondering should I check the fit with or without the collar attached? I only ask this as the the top collar section is sewed into the skirt seam, and I don't know if this will affect the fit. So far I have basted only the top together, including the collar.

JTink
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JTink
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VA USA
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In reply to VivianZ


Date: 12/31/10 2:53 PM

Vivian, I would check it with the collar attached, just because the collar is so large. It could add extra weight around the neck line and "pull" causing more gap. Once you have checked the fit, you would have a better idea as to where the adjustments for both the collar and the neck line should be. Let us know what works

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to VivianZ


Date: 12/31/10 6:36 PM

You need to do this adjustment in a muslin to work. You tuck up the gape and then turn it into a dart that you transfer out of the neckline if it is considerable. If it is a small amount you can take a number of small slits that you overlap in the pattern, as long as it stays flat, and this will take out the excess. The other thing is to ease the excess into a stay and steam it out.

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VivianZ

VivianZ  Friend of PR
Intermediate
LA USA
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In reply to Nancy K


Date: 1/2/11 9:01 AM

I don't understand how to ease the excess into a stay?

JTink
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JTink
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VA USA
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In reply to VivianZ


Date: 1/2/11 9:11 AM

Vivian, do you have Fit For Real People? It's a real good book to have on hand. On pages 131 and 132 it talks about Neck gap and offers suggestions on how to fix it.

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