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FBA and altering the back
How much alteration should I do?
wordchick
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wordchick
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Date: 12/26/10 10:25 AM

When making a FBA to the front of the garment, is it necessary to also make the same adjustment to the pattern back? I don't seem to be able to find this issue addressed anywhere. I'm making a jacket and the FBA went well. However, when I raise my arms the whole jacket moves up. Is my alteration not significant enough? I'm a 36DDD, and I made the FBA at 1 - 1 1/4". Help.....
-- Edited on 12/26/10 10:25 AM --

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JTink
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JTink
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In reply to wordchick


Date: 12/26/10 10:36 AM

You generally shouldn't have to make an adjustment to the back when doing an FBA on the front. I've never found a long sleeve jacket that didn't "move up" when I raised my arms. Some of this could be because of the armholes. I know if I take a little bit deeper seam around the front of the armhole, it brings it a little closer to my body and eases a bit of the problem. Hope this helps. Do you have pictures you can post?

wordchick
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Date: 12/26/10 10:40 AM

Thank you soooo much for responding. I don't have pics yet but I will take one in it. I haven't put in the lining because I want to make sure it won't be wasted. I suspect I may not have made the alteration significant enough. I may need to work at 1 1/4 - 1 1/2"

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Therisa
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Therisa
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In reply to wordchick


Date: 12/26/10 11:01 AM

Normally, these are two separate problems. The jacket likely moves up because the armholes are cut too large initially.

What I mean is this: fit the body of the jacket to the person through a series of muslins. Ensure that the armhole is not more than 1.5" below the actual armpit (for a blouse). Now take a muslin of the sleeve and try to fit it to the body, see how this works. Do this for both sleeves before trying a garment in the fashion fabric.

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wordchick
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Date: 12/26/10 11:17 AM

I've never made an alteration to the sleeve. I think I understand what you're describing though. I may try that on the next jacket. Thanks so much!

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diane s
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Date: 12/26/10 11:50 AM

I always do a fba, and only do a BB sometimes. It depends on the style and amount ease.

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My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

JTink
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In reply to wordchick


Date: 12/26/10 1:04 PM

You might be right about adding a bit more for your FBA. I'm a 34D and using a size 12 at the bust line, I add an inch with my FBA. The armhole/sleeve alteration when brought in closer to your body, will give a better range of motion. I know it doesn't make since, "take a way fabric, to be able to move better", but it's the same idea with crotch fitting too.

wordchick
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In reply to JTink


Date: 12/26/10 1:31 PM

I will go up to 1 1/2". Thanks for the info. I'm using a size 16. The 18 was just huge "everywhere" when I tried it. So, I seem to get a better fit and silhouette with the 16. If I've already attached the sleeves to the garment, how could I improve the fit? I've already trimmed the sleeve seams.... Thanks,

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JTink
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In reply to wordchick


Date: 12/26/10 4:59 PM

Maybe you could put the jacket on wrong side out and pin a bit around the front armhole area. This is when a fitting buddy comes in real handy. If it fits/feels better, then perhaps make a deeper seam. Let us know what works

wordchick
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In reply to JTink


Date: 12/26/10 9:28 PM

I like that idea.... Am I making the seam deeper lower on the front arm (nearer the side side seam) or higher (near the shoulder/high bust area)?

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Mocha Scrapper

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